Velit 12v AC?

[ReluctantTraveler]

Anyone heard of Velit Camping?

They're a relatively new company, from what I can gather, but their 12v AC unit looks really interesting. It's a drop-in replacement for a 110v AC (assuming you have enough lithium to power it, of course).

Unlike the Mabru or Dometic, it fits a standard 14x14 AC hole, and comes with a wiring harness, fuse, etc. They claim is runs at about 40 amps on max power and 20 amps on "eco mode", with a BTU rating of around 8k. Some YouTube videos I've seen seem to confirm those numbers.


One of the biggest complaints I have about my travel trailer is the AC. We like to "travel" more than "camp," and often stop at places on the road between one stop and another. BUT... we travel with a dog, who often isn't allowed in places we'd like to stop. If it's hot out, we can't make stops we'd want to because he'd overheat.

Having a 12v AC would dramatically change what we can do while on the road. But I also don't want to install something, head out on a trip, and have it die on us!

 

[Ozarker]

No idea about that product, but I just leave my dog in the truck cab with the AC blowing cold and the doors locked when stopped.

From a power angle, running on that eco mode at 20 amps probably isn't making ice cubes for very long from any house battery, even less time on "hi" consuming 40 amps.

I'm converting 12 v dc to 110 ac to a real AC 10K btu unit. Some call them window air conditioners, but built into a shroud and drain, it is the cheapest AC you can get.

I'm wondering when all of your threads come to a common solution to actually build upon, have you decided on the vehicle? the camper box? interior layout?

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

No idea about that product, but I just leave my dog in the truck cab with the AC blowing cold and the doors locked when stopped.

From a power angle, running on that eco mode at 20 amps probably isn't making ice cubes for very long from any house battery, even less time on "hi" consuming 40 amps.

I'm converting 12 v dc to 110 ac to a real AC 10K btu unit. Some call them window air conditioners, but built into a shroud and drain, it is the cheapest AC you can get.

I'm wondering when all of your threads come to a common solution to actually build upon, have you decided on the vehicle? the camper box? interior layout?

I have 270 ah of lithium in my rig and the only things that really draw from it are the 12v fridge and the occasional light, so... it actually will run for quite a while.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

No idea about that product, but I just leave my dog in the truck cab with the AC blowing cold and the doors locked when stopped.

From a power angle, running on that eco mode at 20 amps probably isn't making ice cubes for very long from any house battery, even less time on "hi" consuming 40 amps.

I'm converting 12 v dc to 110 ac to a real AC 10K btu unit. Some call them window air conditioners, but built into a shroud and drain, it is the cheapest AC you can get.

I'm wondering when all of your threads come to a common solution to actually build upon, have you decided on the vehicle? the camper box? interior layout?

Also, there's two concurrent threads kind of running at once...

1. Modding the travel trailer we already have to let us do more RIGHT NOW.
2. Building a custom truck camper to let us go places our trailer can't.

There's definitely some overlap, but I'm still trying to figure out the right mix.

The "money is no object build" would be an F-550 on super singles with a Kelderman or Liquid Spring suspension and 12' long custom box with 100 gallons of fresh water, king-sized bed cab-over etc.

The more realistic budget pick is potentially still an F-550, maybe an F-350, with more a more modest habitat. Would still need to run some numbers on finances first.

Then there's also the "we could probably do it right now" option that would require sacrificing some of the "luxury" choices (like ditching awning style windows for traditional RV windows).

 

[DiploStrat]

Boy, that REALLY looks like the Houghton, which is one of the more efficient 110v units. I wonder ...

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

Boy, that REALLY looks like the Houghton, which is one of the more efficient 110v units. I wonder ...

It also looks like some cheap Chinese model you can find on Amazon, as was pointed out by some folks in a Transit Van forum.

But apparently the engineers/owners are based in Seattle, answer their own customer support line, and have been at a few Expo shows over the last year so.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

Boy, that REALLY looks like the Houghton, which is one of the more efficient 110v units. I wonder ...

Quick note about more efficient 100v units and why I'm not looking at that right now: we don't have an inverter in our trailer, and frankly don't run many things that would really benefit from one. We're also on a "weight budget."

Given that, a 12v DC AC unit is appealing to me, but an upgraded 110 unit (especially at the price the more efficient ones sell for) just isn't an option (for me) at this time.

 

[Ozarker]

I have 270 ah of lithium in my rig and the only things that really draw from it are the 12v fridge and the occasional light, so... it actually will run for quite a while.

On a hot day you may get about 6 hours at 40 amps with the lights and fridge taking up that remaining 30 minutes worth.

It can take that long or longer to recharge that battery, which means no AC and maybe no fridge for awhile.

Suggest you triple that storage to at least 810 ah, better yet 1000. Also expand your solar array to minimize charging time.

PS. Inverters aren't that expensive, and weight is not a very valid reason not to have one, IMO, I'd rather leave the grill at home and have power, especially AC.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

On a hot day you may get about 6 hours at 40 amps with the lights and fridge taking up that remaining 30 minutes worth.

It can take that long or longer to recharge that battery, which means no AC and maybe no fridge for awhile.

Suggest you triple that storage to at least 810 ah, better yet 1000. Also expand your solar array to minimize charging time.

PS. Inverters aren't that expensive, and weight is not a very valid reason not to have one, IMO, I'd rather leave the grill at home and have power, especially AC.

I too am able to do math 😀 So let's compare!

With the Coleman Mach 3 we have now, it draws 16 amps at 120v (or 1920 watts). With an inverter, we would get at max 1.7 hours of run time, and that's not accounting for energy loss through the inversion process. Plus the AC would likely need a soft start OR we'd need a more robust inverter to account for the inital heavy draw.

The 12v Velit (if it does what it says it will) running at 40 amps draws 480 watts, which means we could run it for 6.75 hours, as you noted.

And that's if we run it on high. And that's when we're not on shore power (when we're, as I noted, stopping to visit somewhere between two campgrounds).

Help me understand why you think an inverter is "better" in this situation? Or why I need at least 3x the current battery capacity? Because the math isn't really making sense to me.

And, just to reiterate, my original question was "has anyone heard of these folks because this looks promising." I recognize you haven't, and that's fine. But I wasn't really here to debate 12v vs. 110v AC systems.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

Also worth mentioning, the converter in our camper is profiled for lithium and sends 55 amps to the battery when on shore power, so it would run the AC and have some left to charge the battery while at camp.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

8000 btu/hr equals around 2400W.
Unless I missed something, thats alot of current at 12V.

I'm not entirely sure how BTUs convert into energy draw with ACs. I'm looking at the energy draw I've seen both on the product website and in some YouTube videos that show the product drawing 20-40 amps of power over a 12v connection.

Am I doing the math wrong?

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

That's the crux of it. The age old dilemma.

Again, I've read a number of your threads. Allow me a few, unsolicited comments - not advice. Offered with the hope that some frankness might be of use.

Some might say the continued pursuit of the first option in the absence of the resources, willingness or desire to make it happen is a waste of time. I'd never make that charge myself as I'm the King of Day Dreams. But I do recognise there can still be a "cost" to such indulgence.

The second option mentions budget. Constraining yourself to strictly be within a given budget can be very useful for culling out options and directing where best to spent your efforts. And for moving your project forward.

The third option reminds me that - as I understand it - you are currently recreating with your family. That's great ! I have read of many on here that had their life long interest in the outdoors, camping and travel start with family trips when they were young. It goes without saying that not everybody gets that, or even vacations. So you are way ahead there.

Finally, I'm guessing I'm older than you. What I can tell you is projects generally don't get easier. The best time to do is usually yesterday.

Time is what matters. Best, perfect, ideal. That's for the young.

Again, I wish you the best.

Now back to 12V air cons ...

In all seriousness, thank you! I agree with all of this, and it reminds me a lot of Dan Grec's whole "don't let perfect be the enemy of good enough" approach to travel.

Which, for me means...

• Making some sensible modifications to our existing travel trailer where we can and continuing to use the heck of it right now.
• If/when I can afford it, paying someone to build what I actually want so that I don't sink years into building it myself.

This AC question, by the way, falls squarely in the "sensible mods I can do right now" bucket.

 

[Ozarker]

Biggest advantage of a 110 V unit is that it will put out more btu's in a shorter time than a 12 v unit. This more than offsets the electrical loss from converting from 12V to 110V.

That means the cabin cools down faster, then power is saved by maintaining a lower temp than running with a higher power demand to reduce the room temp.

Then, as temps rise as they do during a hot Summer day, a 110V system "reacts" utilizing more power to maintain the desired temp. It's not just the total btu a unit puts out but also how quickly that peak can be reached.

Going further, you seem to be relying on shore power, which means a 110 unit just plugs in instead of running through your conversion from 110V to 12V, while you may not mind that inefficiency with shore power, surges do effect converters and while they heat up you need them in a temp controlled area.

110V can produce up to 15,000 btu, if you want more, 220V will go to 23,000 btu without sweating it. 110 V will be more efficient than 12V and 220V will have better efficiency than 110V.

Then, for those who care about money, a 12V AC unit will be the most expensive, my guess about the one in question is around $1200 to 1500, that might be low. A good efficient window unit can be had just about anyplace for under $250, my last one was a hundred bucks at Sam's.

I hear about RV owners crying about their AC dying every year, the most trouble are the 12V/propane or just 12V units. I have one window unit I bought in 1976, a Sears unit, it's at the cabin working just fine last Summer. I use a GE 12,000 btu window unit for the trailer, it can even cool down the tent!

I'm not an HVAC expert, I'm not an electrical engineer, but I'm familiar with and experienced with the matter. My experience says use a 12V AC unit to cool down a small space, like the cab of your truck or car, in bigger spaces 110V is more efficient, then if you want to cool the barn down, go with a 220V set up.

Big draw back to a window unit; camp site managers/RV snobs may not let you in if they see a window unit hanging out a whole in your camper, it's just a snob thing so the guy with that million-dollar diesel pusher doesn't have to look at the hillbilly rigs.

Solution, build a box inside to mount the window unit, give it a drain, fresh air intake and return using an outside grill or vent.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

Biggest advantage of a 110 V unit is that it will put out more btu's in a shorter time than a 12 v unit. This more than offsets the electrical loss from converting from 12V to 110V.

That means the cabin cools down faster, then power is saved by maintaining a lower temp than running with a higher power demand to reduce the room temp.

Then, as temps rise as they do during a hot Summer day, a 110V system "reacts" utilizing more power to maintain the desired temp. It's not just the total btu a unit puts out but also how quickly that peak can be reached.

Going further, you seem to be relying on shore power, which means a 110 unit just plugs in instead of running through your conversion from 110V to 12V, while you may not mind that inefficiency with shore power, surges do effect converters and while they heat up you need them in a temp controlled area.

110V can produce up to 15,000 btu, if you want more, 220V will go to 23,000 btu without sweating it. 110 V will be more efficient than 12V and 220V will have better efficiency than 110V.

Then, for those who care about money, a 12V AC unit will be the most expensive, my guess about the one in question is around $1200 to 1500, that might be low. A good efficient window unit can be had just about anyplace for under $250, my last one was a hundred bucks at Sam's.

I hear about RV owners crying about their AC dying every year, the most trouble are the 12V/propane or just 12V units. I have one window unit I bought in 1976, a Sears unit, it's at the cabin working just fine last Summer. I use a GE 12,000 btu window unit for the trailer, it can even cool down the tent!

I'm not an HVAC expert, I'm not an electrical engineer, but I'm familiar with and experienced with the matter. My experience says use a 12V AC unit to cool down a small space, like the cab of your truck or car, in bigger spaces 110V is more efficient, then if you want to cool the barn down, go with a 220V set up.

Big draw back to a window unit; camp site managers/RV snobs may not let you in if they see a window unit hanging out a whole in your camper, it's just a snob thing so the guy with that million-dollar diesel pusher doesn't have to look at the hillbilly rigs.

Solution, build a box inside to mount the window unit, give it a drain, fresh air intake and return using an outside grill or vent.

Gotcha. So... I have an existing trailer with an existing 14x14 hole the roof with an existing 110 ac unit already in it.

I'm certainly not going to cut a new hole in my camper for a window unit.

This is also one of the "turn the knob warmer or cooler" 12k BTU units that is, frankly, wildly over-sized for our 100 sq. foot travel trailer.

We are mostly on shore power, except for when we're not. And doing math on the numbers supplied directly by Coleman, running off an inverter would get us a max of 1.75 hours before our LiFePo4 battery is fully discharged, versus 6 for the 12v.

Make it make sense.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

@Ozarker I DO think it's reasonable, though, to say that 8k BTU's isn't enough to cool the space properly (it's a poorly insulated travel trailer, after all).