freshlikesushi
Free Candy
apparently guys are saying the factory 19mm upgrade you can get at the dealer for under 200 I think is a pretty good result.
Wagonofdoom - 2015 Outback build
- Thread starter freshlikesushi
- Start date
FLoffroad1
Observer
You can get it for a lot less than $200 at SubaruOnlineParts:
19mm Kit ~$100
20mm Kit ~$90
I just got my 19mm bar and bushings from them earlier in the week (shipped within a week or so). I'm just waiting on some Kartboy endlinks now. Not necessarily required, but the stock endlinks just look like a joke.
19mm Kit ~$100
20mm Kit ~$90
I just got my 19mm bar and bushings from them earlier in the week (shipped within a week or so). I'm just waiting on some Kartboy endlinks now. Not necessarily required, but the stock endlinks just look like a joke.
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
:shrug: i dont use a rear sway lol. so i never looked into it
so got a bunch of stuff ready to go in.
Doing my lower control arm and trailing arm swap today
Small LEDs im going to put into the rear cargo area to light up the car at night. Biggest complaint i had when camping
Wire up a fuse box in the rear and wire in the fridge
Panel with 2 USB ports, 12v port, and voltage meter in the rear
busy day
Should put out a few videos also with some explanations and jazz for hte site
so got a bunch of stuff ready to go in.
Doing my lower control arm and trailing arm swap today
Small LEDs im going to put into the rear cargo area to light up the car at night. Biggest complaint i had when camping
Wire up a fuse box in the rear and wire in the fridge
Panel with 2 USB ports, 12v port, and voltage meter in the rear
busy day
Should put out a few videos also with some explanations and jazz for hte site
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
got a good amount done today.
Installed 5 LED pods in the rear hatch cover to illuminate the rear. a switch to turn them on and off
Panel with 2 usb ports, volt and 12v port
started wiring up the blue sea fuse box. Slowly but surely getting all the crappy parts taken care of. i hate wiring.
Installed 5 LED pods in the rear hatch cover to illuminate the rear. a switch to turn them on and off
Panel with 2 usb ports, volt and 12v port
started wiring up the blue sea fuse box. Slowly but surely getting all the crappy parts taken care of. i hate wiring.
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
Ill be doing a short video. im working on doing more videos than text. keeps people more interested i found.
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
WagoneerSX4
Adventurer
Great video! It's always nice when guinea pigs find the weak points for vehicles and they archive their findings for the next person. Nice work on beefing them up.
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
So boys and girls. Is there anything youd like to know more in detail of the build? Im working on a few videos, and am taking suggestions/requests about what to focus on. Thoughts?
I just watched the cargo area treatment. Nice setup. Would you, by chance have any night shots of the tailgate LEDs?
I've only been holding off with my version because I already have an idea in my head of how much light I want. I'd hate to go through it all and be left wanting more.
I've only been holding off with my version because I already have an idea in my head of how much light I want. I'd hate to go through it all and be left wanting more.
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
well, the cool thing is it is super easy to add more. BUT, if I remember tonight ill do a shot at a set exposure with the rear dome light on, and then another with the LEDs on and try and get as close to actual exposure approximation I can
calicamper
Expedition Leader
Nice work Fresh
That narrow section at the outer end of the lower control arm is a spot I was wondering about after poking around down there a couple of years ago on my 2010 which is set up the same way. Does seem like a flexy weak point where it narrows down. After seeing your video I'm going to go out and eye ball mine see if there are any signs of it deforming. We do carry a sizable load on a regular basis with the trailer and I could see that spot being a possible weak point.
Thanks for sharing!
That narrow section at the outer end of the lower control arm is a spot I was wondering about after poking around down there a couple of years ago on my 2010 which is set up the same way. Does seem like a flexy weak point where it narrows down. After seeing your video I'm going to go out and eye ball mine see if there are any signs of it deforming. We do carry a sizable load on a regular basis with the trailer and I could see that spot being a possible weak point.
Thanks for sharing!
Herbie
Rendezvous Conspirator
One note on the "flexy weak point" on the arms - that's sort of the designed-in failure point. It would be very easy to beef that portion up, but then you run the risk of just moving the failure point farther up or into something actually on the unibody.
Not to say that it couldn't be a bit stronger, but be wary of just moving the problem "upstream" to something harder to fix or more expensive to replace if/when it bends.
Not to say that it couldn't be a bit stronger, but be wary of just moving the problem "upstream" to something harder to fix or more expensive to replace if/when it bends.
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
eh, in not THAT concerned about it. I didn't super overbuild them…yet. That will come when I get a new subframe in the mail
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
Light Comparison by Grant Wilson, on Flickrambient with trunk closed
Light Comparison by Grant Wilson, on Flickrjust rear dome light
Light Comparison by Grant Wilson, on Flickrrear leds on