Watches.......the other type!

ramblinChet

Well-known member
One of my hobbies happens to be collecting mechanical watches. I guess once of my biggest disappointments related to full time travel is I rarely am able to enjoy even just a fraction of my collection and carrying around even a modest collection in a truck with a pop-up camper is beyond foolish. And although my home is in a wonderful neighborhood, I don't even have any of my collections stored there. But every time I stop home for a few weeks I make arrangement to pull a few pieces from my harem and take them out on a date for a few days.

On that note, here are a few that I have enjoyed recently...

DOXA, founded in 1889 in Le Locle, Switzerland, renowned for its precision pocket watches and dashboard clocks, gained fame with the 1967 SUB 300 dive watch, notably worn by Jacques Cousteau’s diving team and featured as the iconic orange-dialed timepiece on Dirk Pitt’s wrist in Clive Cussler’s adventure novels like Sahara. The DOXA Sub 1500T Professional with its striking orange dial, a modern successor to the SUB 300T Conquistador, features a 45mm cushion-shaped 316L stainless steel case with an impressive 1500-meter (160 ATM) water resistance, powered by an automatic movement and equipped with a patented unidirectional bezel featuring a no-decompression dive table and a helium release valve, co-developed with Rolex in the 1960s to allow helium gas to escape during saturation diving decompression, a pioneering feature first introduced to the public with the 1968 SUB 300T Conquistador. Its vibrant orange dial, designed for optimal underwater legibility with Super-LumiNova-coated markers and hands in a minimalist, vintage-inspired style, echoes Cousteau’s preference for clarity in deep-sea conditions. The stainless steel bracelet, featuring a folding clasp with the DOXA fish symbol and a wetsuit extension, has a robust, polished design, enhancing its rugged charm as a tool watch for adventurers and collectors alike.
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Rolex, founded in 1905 in London and relocated to Geneva, Switzerland, in 1919 for better access to watchmaking expertise and infrastructure, became a horological icon with its innovative Oyster case and Perpetual movements, but its collaboration with Pan American Airways in the 1950s led to the GMT-Master, designed for Pan-Am pilots to track multiple time zones during transcontinental flights, with the iconic red-and-blue “Pepsi” bezel mirroring the airline’s livery. The Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16710, produced from 1989 to 2007, features a 40mm stainless steel Oyster case with 100-meter water resistance, powered by an automatic Caliber 3185 (later 3186) movement with an independently adjustable GMT hand for monitoring a second time zone. Its black dial, with luminous Mercedes hands and markers, pairs with a bidirectional aluminum bezel in Pepsi (red/blue), Coke (red/black), configurations, where the two-tone Pepsi bezel divides day (blue) and night (red) hours to aid pilots in quickly distinguishing AM/PM times across time zones, enhancing navigational efficiency. The Pepsi variant remains one of the most desirable and difficult-to-purchase Rolex watches today due to its vibrant aesthetic and aviation heritage. The stainless steel Oyster bracelet, with a folding Oysterlock clasp, offers durability and comfort, though its hollow end-links may show minor wear, adding to the watch’s storied, travel-ready charm.
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Sinn Spezialuhren, founded in 1961 by Helmut Sinn in Frankfurt, Germany, is renowned for crafting robust, functional timepieces for professionals like pilots and divers, with a legacy rooted in producing mission timers for extreme conditions, notably supplying the German Bundeswehr, including the Luftwaffe and Marine, with chronographs used by fighter pilots and naval units for precision timing in demanding operations. The Sinn U50 SDR with TEGIMENT option, a highlight of the U50 series, features a 41mm bead-blasted case made from high-strength German Submarine Steel, sourced from decommissioned U-boats for its strength and exceptional corrosion resistance in seawater, with a 500-meter (50 bar) water resistance certified by DNV (Det Norske Veritas), an international classification society ensuring diving equipment reliability. Powered by an automatic movement, its matte black dial with luminous indices and squared-off syringe-style hands coated with Super-LumiNova ensures superior legibility, while the captive, bidirectional bezel with Black Hard Coating on a TEGIMENT-hardened base aids divers in tracking elapsed time in low-visibility conditions. The crown, positioned at 4 o’clock, enhances wearer comfort by reducing wrist irritation during extended use, a critical feature for divers and professionals requiring unhindered movement. The TEGIMENT technology, applied to both case and bezel, significantly enhances scratch resistance, adding to its rugged, tool-watch appeal. This watch, blending German engineering with a minimalist, high-performance design, embodies Sinn’s military-inspired heritage.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre, founded in 1833 in Le Sentier, Switzerland, is a pinnacle of haute horlogerie, renowned for its in-house production of over 1,400 calibers and groundbreaking innovations like the world’s first silent regulator for striking watches, with all timepieces meticulously crafted in its Vallée de Joux Manufacture, earning it the esteemed title “Grande Maison.” The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph, blends rugged elegance with a 42mm stainless steel case, 100-meter water resistance, and the in-house Calibre 761, an automatic column-wheel chronograph movement with a 65-hour power reserve. Its captivating blue lacquered dial, featuring a gradient from light to deep blue through over 30 layers of varnish, showcases luminous baton hands, Arabic numeral/stick markers, and a tachymeter scale for speed calculations, ideal for motorsports enthusiasts, while two sunken sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock enhance its sporty aesthetic, for its dynamic yet refined look. The stainless steel bracelet, complemented by an interchangeable blue rubber strap with a ‘Clous de Paris’ guilloché pattern, offers versatility, adding character to its robust charm, as noted in Escapement Magazine for its balanced proportions and legibility.
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So beautiful she deserves two pictures. I especially love how at certain angles the perimeter of the indices, hands, and signature, reflect light and come alive.
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If anyone is interested I will be happy to post additional pictures of the other watches I wear over the next several weeks. Once I return them to where they are stored I likely will not see them for the next year.

Every man should have at least one fine mechanical watch.
 
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ramblinChet

Well-known member
Over the past few weeks I have pulled a few others out of storage and taken them out for the first time in over a year to enjoy the sunlight. Here are a few more that I enjoy...

Over the past decade Tudor has become increasingly popular here in these United States. Tudor, founded in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf in Geneva, Switzerland, as a sister brand to Rolex, is celebrated for its robust, accessible luxury timepieces, drawing on Rolex’s engineering expertise while carving its own identity with models like the Black Bay, inspired by Tudor’s 1950s dive watches. The Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G (Steel & Gold), features a 41mm stainless steel case with yellow gold accents, 200-meter water resistance, and the in-house Manufacture Calibre MT5652, an automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve and GMT function for tracking multiple time zones. Its domed black dial complements the brown and black “Root Beer” bidirectional bezel, where the brown section marks daylight hours and black indicates nighttime, aiding travelers in distinguishing AM/PM times across zones, a nod to the GMT’s aviation heritage. The two-tone steel and gold riveted bracelet, with polished and satin finishes, adds a nostalgic touch, which some collectors find adds character to its vintage-inspired aesthetic. The Black Bay GMT S&G, lauded on for its nostalgic charm and functionality, remains a sought-after piece for its blend of heritage and modern versatility.
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Founded in 1848 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Omega has become a hallmark of luxury watchmaking, celebrated for its precision and pivotal role in space exploration, most notably through the Speedmaster’s use in NASA’s Apollo missions. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional, a 42mm stainless steel chronograph, secured its iconic status after NASA’s grueling 1964-1965 tests, enduring extreme vibration, temperatures from -18°C to 93°C, and vacuum conditions, proving its reliability for spaceflight - a legacy I witnessed firsthand while contributing to projects at NASA Langley Research Center (LaRC). Equipped with a black step dial, sapphire crystal, the signature “dot over 90” bezel, and the manual-wound Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, it offers 15,000-gauss anti-magnetic resistance and a 50-hour power reserve, seamlessly merging its historic significance with modern craftsmanship.

The OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch adorned Buzz Aldrin’s wrist in 1969 when he became the first person to set foot on another celestial body during the Apollo 11 mission. Astronauts on Apollo missions 12, 14, 15, 16, and 17 also wore this iconic OMEGA model while exploring the lunar surface.
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The display caseback, crafted from sapphire crystal, showcases the intricate micro-mechanical components of the Speedmaster. While these elements may appear small, their complexity is truly remarkable when viewed in person. A mechanical watch, in my view, embodies an extraordinary blend of precision micro-engineering, impeccable craftsmanship, and a touch of artistry and creativity.
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The OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M Co-Axial Master Chronometer is a 42 mm stainless steel timepiece that merges iconic design with advanced technology, reflecting OMEGA’s ocean heritage and its association with James Bond since 1995’s GoldenEye. Its polished white ceramic dial with laser-engraved waves, black ceramic bezel with a white enamel diving scale, and rhodium-plated skeleton hands filled with white Super-LumiNova ensure readability and sophistication. Powered by the OMEGA Master Chronometer Calibre 8800, visible through a sapphire crystal caseback, it delivers exceptional precision, anti-magnetic resistance up to 15,000 gauss, and water resistance to 300 meters. A helium escape valve at 10 o’clock enhances its suitability for saturation diving, allowing helium to escape during decompression to prevent case damage. Certified by METAS, the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology, which rigorously tests watches for accuracy, performance, and magnetic resistance, this watch, with its Co-Axial escapement and silicon balance spring, exemplifies superior craftsmanship and durability for diving and daily wear, as favored by James Bond in films including Tomorrow Never Dies, The World is Not Enough, and Die Another Day.
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ramblinChet

Well-known member
The Longines Ultra-Chron is a vintage-inspired watch, rereleased in 2022, immediately convincing me to add it to my collection. Its key features include a high-beat 5 Hz movement, a 1967 original release (my birth year), a cushion-shaped case similar to my DOXA, and no date. The Longines symbol, a winged hourglass, registered in 1889, is the oldest unchanged trademark still in use.

Another interesting feature, shown in the last photo, is the unidirectional rotating bezel with a sapphire insert. Most inserts are aluminum or ceramic, whereas this sapphire one is crystal clear, with markings laser-etched and painted. Under certain lighting, you can see the shadows of the markings on the back face of the bezel.
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Founded in 1904 in Hölstein, Switzerland, Oris is one of the few independent Swiss watchmakers producing only mechanical watches. The Aquis’s design balances sportiness and elegance, but its in-house Calibre 400 movement, designed for reliability, accuracy, and modern challenges like magnetism, truly caught my attention. Oris spent five years developing it, marking a significant leap from their earlier Sellita-based movements. Additionally, a girlfriend (redhead) who saw parts of my collection noted I didn’t own a watch with a green dial, making the Aquis’s green option particularly appealing.
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Most of my collection features mechanical movements, but a few quartz watches hold a special place. The Hamilton PSR is a faithful revival of the Pulsar P2, the world’s first digital watch, which debuted in 1972 and reshaped timekeeping. The Pulsar P2’s appearance in Live and Let Die (1973) immortalized it as a cinematic and cultural icon, embodying 1970s futurism and spy-tech allure. I recall watching that movie with my parents at a drive-in theater near the lake during summer. Whenever I wear the PSR, I smile, recalling boyhood dreams of living an adventurous life like Agent 007.
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ITTOG

Well-known member
I remember as a child I had a collection of watches. Mainly swatch watches, about ten. We would trade, sell, and buy all the time. At its height, I bet I was approaching 50 different watches over the course of a year. But then I grew up and the collection had to go.
 

ramblinChet

Well-known member
The Zenith Chronomaster Sport, released in 2021, carries forward the heritage of the El Primero movement, introduced in 1969 as the first automatic chronograph caliber. From 1988 to 2000, Rolex utilized a modified El Primero in its Daytona before transitioning to its in-house Calibre 4130. The current model features the El Primero 3600, offering a 60-hour power reserve and a 1/10th-second chronograph function, with the central seconds hand completing a dial rotation in 10 seconds, readable via a ceramic bezel with 1/10th-second markers. Encased in a 41mm stainless steel body with 100m water resistance, it retains the iconic tri-color subdial design (blue, anthracite, silver), pump-style pushers, and a sapphire caseback to showcase the movement. However, the bracelet and clasp are considered less polished compared to competitors like the Rolex Daytona.
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The Santos de Cartier large stainless steel watch, an iconic timepiece from Cartier, a prestigious French luxury brand founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, was originally designed in 1904 by Louis Cartier for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who needed a practical wristwatch for timing flights, marking it as one of the first men’s wristwatches. The modern Santos de Cartier, model WSSA0018, features a 39.8mm square stainless steel case, a mechanical movement with automatic winding (Caliber 1847 MC), a silvered opaline dial with Roman numerals, and a versatile design with interchangeable metal and leather bracelets equipped with Cartier’s QuickSwitch system. The stainless steel bracelet, adorned with signature exposed screws, has a distinctive brushed and polished finish, though the screws are intentionally misaligned for aesthetic effect, adding to the watch’s unique industrial charm. The watch combines elegance and functionality, with 100-meter water resistance and a sleek, ergonomic profile suitable for both men and women.
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The Hanhart PIONEER Preventor HD12 with a black dial, crafted by Hanhart, a German watchmaker founded in 1882 in Gütenbach, Black Forest, is a modern tribute to the brand’s legacy, which includes supplying robust chronographs to the Luftwaffe during the 1930s and 1940s, underscoring its historical role in German aviation. This time-only, no-date watch features a 39mm HD12 steel case with a remarkable 1200 HV hardness, powered by an automatic movement regulated to 0/+8 seconds per day, and showcases a matte black dial with large Arabic numerals in a classic, legible font evocative of vintage military designs, paired with cathedral hands coated with Super-LumiNova C1 for superior readability. The stainless steel bracelet, treated with a transparent PVD coating for enhanced durability, features a folding clasp and aligns with the watch’s tool-watch aesthetic, with uniquely cut endlinks for easy strap changes, adding versatility. With 150-meter water resistance and a timeless explorer aesthetic, the Preventor HD12, incorporating historical cues like the vintage Hanhart logo, blends them with modern durability for an ideal everyday watch, while its Black Forest origins connect it to the region where my grandfather’s unit, the 94th Infantry Division, fought during World War II, engaging German forces in the spring of 1945 as they advanced through the Saar-Moselle Triangle and beyond.
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ITTOG

Well-known member
So for those of you with a collection, how many do you typically have in the collection. I don't collect but of course have moved on or upgraded a few times. I think I have four watches right now; I would have to check the safe. I have two OU watches, not sure who the builder is. I may have to look tonight. I also have a Rolex, from my dad. My current watch that I wear is a Pixel Watch 3. I have gone the smart watch route for at least a decade. I don't see that changing any time soon.
 

JackW

Explorer
Ramblin Chet has hit the nail on the head with the Doxa - a dream watch for me - a friend of mine has one his father gave him many years ago and I remember drooling over a display case with a Doxa dive watch back in the late 1960's.
I have a couple of gold pocket watches dating to 1873-1884 and my grandfathers 1954 Rolex Turn-O-Graph, the predecessor to the Submariner.

I haven't actually worn a watch in years but that Sinn sure does look right up my alley.
 
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