Waterton-Glacier and Yellowstone NP (Date still open)

[OverlandZJ]

I've fished and hiked Yellowstone and the Beartooth Mts./Absaroka area many times. I've limited on trout before lunch every day I've fished. The fishing is awesome.

The likelyhood of actually seeing a Grizzly is extremely low. I've spent at least 100 nights in Gallatin/Shoshone/Custer NF and never seen one. My family members have been going there from Cody WY for over a 100 years and few have ever seen a Grizzly.

This is not to say we haven't had visitors. Footprints outside of the campsite, vehicle broken into at a trailhead, fresh tracks at the streamside that weren't there moments before. That "feeling" when the little hairs stand up on your neck and your :sunny: hole snaps shut and you feel totally alive but wonder for how much longer?

No matter what you do, don't miss the drive from Red Lodge to Cooke City on the Beertooth Hwy. This is a drive you will never forget.

I know actually having a good encounter with a Grizzly is rare, but i'v been pretty lucky thus far. :elkgrin:

I'll be sure to take that drive...thanks! I also have plans for "Going to the Sun Rd" in Glacier....and just generally cruisin around the backcountry. :victory: Any input on backcountry roads i must see?

Thanks Scott...i wont let ya down. :hehe:

 

[calamaridog]

I'll try and find the names and exact locations of some good backcountry roads around Beartooth Hwy. I know some of my family's favorite backcountry roads are closed now to vehicles.

We used to drive to one awesome lake for fishing but that road is now closed and it's about a two mile walk. Why they had to close that road, I don't know. It was a road as far back as my Grandfather could remember and it saw maybe 10 vehicles per year.

I haven't been up there now for several years. I am planning on taking my wife and kid in 2007. My wife has never seen Yellowstone/Teton NP and I want her to see them.

 

[paulj]

I'll try and find the names and exact locations of some good backcountry roads around Beartooth Hwy.

The Beartooth Pass highway was closed most of last summer. The zig zag climb on the Montana side as badly damaged by mudslides in the spring, and they didn't get it repaired until the fall, shortly before snow closed it.

You could still enter the NE corner of Yellowstone by way of Cody and the Chief Joseph Hwy.

http://www.mdt.mt.gov/travinfo/beartooth/ has some great photos of the highway.

paulj

 

[OverlandZJ]

Thank you guys so much!

I just found this road during a search. I'll have to add this one to my list. :jumping: I'll contact the local ranger district to see if it's still open.

http://goldwest.visitmt.com/listings/894.htm

 

[paulj]

Another backroads byway in SW Montana is Magruder Corridor - though most of it is in Idaho.

http://www.fs.fed.us/r1/nezperce/maps/brochures/magruder.pdf

http://www.fs.fed.us/r1/nezperce/maps/

 

[OverlandZJ]

Update: Trip Cancelled for now.

I recently suffered a massive heart attack and ended up being the recipient of a triple bypass at age 44. ( I'v had problems in the past which is partly why i started to do more traveling as i could)

Thanks to all who participated in the planning of this trip, it will happen just not in the scheduled 6 weeks from now.

:camping:

 

[flywgn]

Oh man, sorry to hear that bit of news. Hope all goes well and you get out on the road soon! :victory:

 

[calamaridog]

Wow John B, I hope your recovery goes well:exclaim:

When you are ready for the trip, let me know and I'll research some of those roads.

 

[datrupr]

Sorry to hear about your health troubles, but glad that you are still with us. It sounded like a great trip, and I look forward to hearing about it when you do get it accomplished.

 

[Doin_It]

At 44 it's not the time to be having heart problems. We thank God that you are still here with us to discuss on EPF, as I'm sure so are the rest of yolur family and friends.

 

[OverlandZJ]

Thanks for the well wishes gents, i realize i'm on the young side but one cant change genetics...it's the cards your dealt.

I'm a beiever that i'll live my life as well as i can for as long as i can.

Now lets move on... :suning:

 

[OverlandZJ]

The trip is back on :wings: , with the cancellation of running North to Glacier NP.

We leave in 24 days (Sept 14th), hopefully the current fires and restrictions dont take much away from this trip. Most of our time is scheduled in SW Montana outside Dillon and then south of Bozeman where we have NF cabin rentals but will be carrying camp gear if we need to abandon the cabins.

Been taking notes from reports in MT/WY/ID..thanks KC, paulj, mountainpete, erod among others.

Can anyone recommend nice scenic camp locations in the event we may need them?

 

[kcowyo]

Congrats John, glad to hear the trip will happen. I think you will love SW Montana, it's just like you've dreamed.

I just returned last night, from a 5 day trip up to Glacier NP and we returned through the Dillon/Virginia City/Ennis area and West Yellowstone.
Here's what I can offer you -

There are several fire restrictions in Montana, but a cold front has pushed out most of the smoke. I wouldn't plan on too many areas allowing campfires, but in 4 weeks things may change if they get some precipatation.

In Ennis, I like to camp along the historic Madison River near the Varney Bridge, approximately 6 miles south of town. And when I say on the river, I mean within 6 feet. Sunsets over the river, floaters launching in the morning, it's perfect. Breakfast at the Ennis Cafe on Main Street tastes better than anything I could make in camp....

See Virginia City. It's a well preserved ghost town on the Nat'l Register of Historic Places. A fun place to meander through with a few open cafe's and watering holes.

There is a 4WD road between Dillon and Ennis, that will take you by Black Butte. Well worth the drive and the scenery is top notch. The only person I saw on that trail was a sheepherder from South America, watching over the flock. Very remote, high altitude but fairly easy trails.

South of Bozeman, towards West Yellowstone is one of my favorite drives. The Gallatin Gateway Hotel is an old railroad hotel that is still operating. It is beautiful and worth a peek in the doors on your way by. In Big Sky, there are a ton of condos and ski hills. Pretty, but I usually pass by without going up the mountain.

The Gallatin River follows this road, it's where they filmed "A River Runs Through It", so you know it's beautiful. I like to eat at The Corral in Big Sky, actually a mile or two south of the turn to the ski resort. Great steaks and cold beer. Another couple of miles south on this road there is a nice NF campground called Red Cliffs, that sits right on the Gallatin River. I've camped there a few times and I really like it. Of course it is road construction season, so expect some delays.

Why all of a sudden do I feel like I know more places to eat in Montana, then I do to camp?

 

[OverlandZJ]

Good info KC, and we thank you. Happen to have a favorite WY or MT book listing scenic drives and points of interest?

Virginia City has been on the list since Big Sky Trapper posted his pics of the area. Thanks for the Dillon to Ennis route, may have to stop in for BearClaws.


If you see a group of Jeep Wranglers in Lander flag us down, i'd be happy to buy you a :beer: I'm not sure i'll be in town but you never know. We'll be heading to the Badlands for a quick 2 days from Hyalite Reservoir Eastern Yellowstone areas.

 

[kcowyo]

Good info KC, and we thank you. Happen to have a favorite WY or MT book listing scenic drives and points of interest?

John, I sent you a PM with my contact info.

My favorite Wyoming book for scenic drives is called, 8,000 Miles of Dirt by Dan Lewis. It covers everything.

I don't have a favorite book for Montana, I just bring a Nat Geo driving guide book and some recreation maps that I've found at various gas station-convenience stores up there and try trails that look remote. There is no shortage of remote trails in SW Montana.

I would also recommend Bannack State Park, near Dillon. A cool ghost town with well preserved old buildings and history. And the Ruby River Resevoir near Virginia City. Nice lake and nice campground. You'll be happy with any trails in the Beaverhead Nat Forest. Just bring extra fuel if possible. You'll probably need it.

:beer: