Weldtec 6" Baja Grocery Getter Review

I installed the kit in my driveway back in December using only hand tools. Friend welded the radius arm brackets on for me. Overall the kit is very easy to install, it's just nuts and bolts. You will need two big jacks and two tall jack stands. Other than that, it's just basic tools. I already had 2.5 degree camber/caster pills in it. The alignment shop ended up going with a 2.75 degree on the passenger side and used the 2.5 on the driver's side. Overall cost was $2750 for the kit with shipping and returning the factory I-beams. Got the rims off of ebay for $375, tires from ebay were $575 and the spacers were from Amazon @ $110 for all 4.
Aluminum spacers: Many people get all sorts of emotional about using spacers, especially ebay or amazon aluminum spacers. In all my years, I've never seen a spacer fail. I've seen people fail by not cutting the old lugs under the spacer height, over torquing or under torquing or not using loc tite on the lugs holding the spacer on. Also note: I'm not using this van to rock crawl or jump around Moab. If I had plans of really beating on the suspension and going real big on tires then yes, I would upgrade to steel spacers.

Let me know if you have any comments or questions.

 

macsfamily

New member
A couple of questions-
1. Do you have any rubbing issues on the front with the spacers installed? I have the same kit with the exception that I bought new rear springs and a bumper. I have the i-beams pushed forward, but with the spacers installed on the front, I still get rubbing at full lock on the body. No issue with the spacers removed. So, right now, I am only running rear spacers. 285/70-17 tires.
2. Is your van diesel? If so, how did you relocate the fuel filter?

Your van looks great. I have about 2500 miles on mine now and love it. I do feel the front oem brake lines are really pushed to their limit at full extension. They will be getting replaced soon.
 

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The front rubs on the bumper with the spacers at full lock. I trimmed the plastic on the lower part of the bumper to minimize the rub. It probably wouldn't rub if I didn't have the spacers but I like the wider look.

Unfortunately mine is gas, if it were diesel, I would have converted to 4x4.
 
Like I said... 100% satisfied!
I'm definitely recommending Weldtec for anybody wanting a lift here in Denver.
Thanks for your product and support!
 

GRTvan

New member
Winmag your van looks great. Very interested in the 6" lift from Weldtec. Now that you have had it installed for a few months, would like to get your take on how the van rides compared to stock. Highway and offroad or dirt roads. The interest in the lift for us is mostly for running around on dirt roads to trail heads for hiking. Stock suspension is not great for this. But we do a lot of highway driving to get to those trail heads.
 
GRTvan
I really like the ride. It is stiffer than stock but that is a plus. On the highway its fairly smooth and doesn't sway like it did stock. My girlfriend sleeps with no problem when we are traveling.
Off road it is a bit harsh, but that's mainly due to the 10ply tires and 75lbs of air that they run on. I'm currently looking for an on board air unit so I can drop the pressure to 30lbs when I go up the trail and be able to pump it back up when I hit the highway again. It's hard finding a pump that runs on 12v that can fill a 32+" tire, it's even harder to find one that will fill it to 50+lbs of air...... unless you want to spend $500.
I use my van a lot here in Colorado, NM and Utah. I considered 4x4 for a bit, but the price vs. how much I would really use it was a big factor. Out west going up trails to hike and camp, I run out of room because of the size of my van, I've never ran out of traction. When the snow gets deep and icy on the passes I use chains in the rear. They are a PITA, but a good chains are $200 and a 4x4 conversion is $10k. I chained up four times last year and by the fourth time I could do it in 4 minutes, and go almost anywhere a 4x4 could go.
The ground clearance and entry/exit angle you gain with the 6" Weldtec lift are awesome and exactly what I needed.
After you do the install the MOST important thing to be done is the alignment! Take it somewhere that specializes in off road, race or big trucks. There is only one shop in Denver that can do an alignment and that's Kennedy in Commerce City. Absolutely do not take it to a chain store or car shop to do it! Kennedy charges $150-$230 to do the job, and they do it right. I can let go of my wheel at 80mph and the van goes straight.
Another important factor is gearing. I went with 32.5" tires. With the stock 3.73 you could really feel the loss in torque. 4.10's would have brought it back close to a stock drive ratio. 4.56's would have killed the highway and interstate driving. I went with 4.30's and could not be happier with them. More responsive than stock plus I can run 80mph on the interstate at 2500rpm. Again, if you re gear, take it someone who knows what they are doing. Colorado Axel and Gear have a great reputation.

Hope this helps.
 
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GRTvan

New member
Winmag, thanks for all the info. Sounds like this is exactly what we are looking for. If you don't mind being peppered with more questions. What size tires are you running and with what wheels? Appreciate the information on the gearing in the differential. We currently have 3.55 LSD. Looks like the cost of changing that needs to be factored in. Idea of cost to change differentialvgearing? Did you also get the progressive rear leaf springs? If not what are you doing for the rear suspension. Thanks again for the input.
 
285/75/16 10ply they are 32.5” tall, $500 on eBay.
American Racing AR172 0 offset 16” wheels. They were $375 brand new on eBay. Wish I would have done 17”, the brakes are very close to the wheel with the 16’s
Used 2” aluminum spacers all the way around.
Gearing was done at Colorado Axel and Gear. $1200 for gears and full rebuild with a 1 year unlimited warranty. My axel is “semi float”, if yours is “full float” it may be $100 more.
Find a reputable shop to do gears. There’s guys who will do it for $500 but if your rear end fails, it will cause $2000+ in damage.
 
I have blocks in back with the Fox shocks. I’m not overbuilt in the interior so I’m not loading the back with a lot of weight. If you build heavy, you’ll want the leaf pack and not the blocks.
 
Anything to do with vehicles or houses will always be over budget. LOL
You can save a lot by searching the net. The rims I got for $375 function just fine. Tires on ebay are cheaper than any brick and mortar, by far. I generally add %25 to any estimate I do. Little things add up quick, spacers, lug nuts, TPMS sensors, ect. will add $$$ to a build, but they are things you can save money on. Things like alignments and gearing are things you want to have done right.
You can always do the lift first and gearing later. My van has the 5.4L and it did "OK" with the 3.73's but it really worked the transmission and motor. When I first got the lift done, before I re geared, my gas mileage dropped to around 11.6mpg. Roughly five weeks later I had it geared to 4.30 and my mileage shot back up to 14.2mpg. Prior to doing the lift and tires I was getting 16.5mpg. If I put 100k miles on my van now it will pay for the re gear. :)
 

Petrolburner

Explorer
I think this is the Puma air compressor I had in my last Motovan. It would air back up from 25 psi all around to 50 in the front and 60 in the rear in 11 minutes. Engine running, fans and lights off for maximum voltage output.

https://www.amazon.com/PD1006-Puma-Volt-Compressor-Gallon/dp/B00W1TNO6U


Also, I used Trailhead automatic deflators set to 25 psi. Just thread them on in place of the valve stem caps and drive slowly for a few minutes while the air bleeds off. Then put the valve stem caps back on and mob. I had the Weldtec Octillo cruiser kit with Fox Shox and steering damper. It was incredible how fast I could get that big fat van down a dirt road. Tire pressure made the a huge difference in the dirt.
 

Mike_white

New member
Winmag, thanks for the great write up.

How do you find the change in the steering linkage angles, in regards to the drag arm pivot coming close to the lower rad hose? Any signs of friction?

How has it been winding through corners at highway speeds without a front sway bar?

Thx!
 

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