What are the strongest 5/8" hitch pins for recovery use?

Ugly1

Member
I'm definitely not an ME so please bear with me.

A well known supplier touts their stainless 303 hitch pins and even rate them. They have the highest breaking strength rating of any of the pins I've found, where the manufacturer lists those numbers.

I'm noticing farm supply shops with Grade 8 forged, heat treated, alloy steel hitch pins for like 10 bucks. https://www.toolboxsupply.com/products/farmex-speeco-70081100-grade-8-hitch-pin-6-5-8

The tensile strength of the Grade 8 should be almost twice that of the 303 stainless pins if I'm not mistaken.

Doesn't that mean the Grade 8 pins should be stronger/safer for recovery work?
 

Alloy

Well-known member
Anything metal should bend before it breaks

I've bent 5/8 hitch pins. When they do it's time to try something else.

I'd never use stainlees and question using high grade steel unless load rated (5 or 6:1) for lifting or grossly oversized.
 

plh

Explorer
I'm definitely not an ME so please bear with me.

A well known supplier touts their stainless 303 hitch pins and even rate them. They have the highest breaking strength rating of any of the pins I've found, where the manufacturer lists those numbers.

I'm noticing farm supply shops with Grade 8 forged, heat treated, alloy steel hitch pins for like 10 bucks. https://www.toolboxsupply.com/products/farmex-speeco-70081100-grade-8-hitch-pin-6-5-8

The tensile strength of the Grade 8 should be almost twice that of the 303 stainless pins if I'm not mistaken.

Doesn't that mean the Grade 8 pins should be stronger/safer for recovery work?

Factor 55 has them listed as hitch pins. I wouldn't use those for recovery.
 

WOODY2

Adventurer
I'm definitely not an ME so please bear with me.

A well known supplier touts their stainless 303 hitch pins and even rate them. They have the highest breaking strength rating of any of the pins I've found, where the manufacturer lists those numbers.

I'm noticing farm supply shops with Grade 8 forged, heat treated, alloy steel hitch pins for like 10 bucks. https://www.toolboxsupply.com/products/farmex-speeco-70081100-grade-8-hitch-pin-6-5-8

The tensile strength of the Grade 8 should be almost twice that of the 303 stainless pins if I'm not mistaken.

Doesn't that mean the Grade 8 pins should be stronger/safer for recovery work?
Note the hitch pin they show is more for a tractor draw bar/implement, it's only 1/2" dia not 5/8" as typical ones are.
 

Ugly1

Member
Anything metal should bend before it breaks

I've bent 5/8 hitch pins. When they do it's time to try something else.

I'd never use stainlees and question using high grade steel unless load rated (5 or 6:1) for lifting or grossly oversized.
What do you recomend? I haven't found anything with that sort of rating. Would you mind linking something?
 

Ugly1

Member
The hitch pin is only as strong as the weakest point on the entire hitch. What's everything else bolted with?
Whatever the Dodge factory decided to bolt on the factory Class IV hitch with. They look fine though I will probably upgrade to the TorkLift class V and all new hardware at some point but for other reasons. What do you know about hitch pins ofd the sort I linked?
 

Ugly1

Member
Tensile has nothing to do with the Shear strength needed in a lynch pin.
You forgot to quote the rest where I warned everyone I, I'm not an expert in the subject. I thought that might clue people in but great catch. Do you happen to have any advice relevant to the topic of the thread?
 

Ugly1

Member
Dodge 2500, Gas engine. Maybe 6000lbs up to 8000 loaded for camping. As before, not an ME. I thought my question was clear. Not looking for engineering data, but recomendations for better hitch pins. Thanks for the info about shear vs tensile. My intention was not to rewrite the rules but to start a conversation.

Edit. You know? On second thought, go ahead and talk about engineering theory/data all you want because that's interesting too. But that wasn't my intended focus.
 
Last edited:

dstefan

Well-known member
There’s quite a lot of info in this thread on the use of receiver pins for recovery

 

Ugly1

Member
That is a good thread, thanks. Though they never realy delve specifically into the pins very deeply.

I think you could argue that whichever method you decide to go with, and there seems to be some pretty good ideas on that thread for sure, they all could potentially be even safer with stronger hitch pins. Am I wrong?

I am surprised there isn't a stronger concensus on here about it. So everybody just buys a factor 55, the end? well everybody except user Alloy I guess. haha.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
It is important to keep the entire system in mind.

Shearing a properly supported 5/8" pin of decent quality in a receiver hitch is a very uncommon situation. No matter what strength material your pin is made from, the outside supporting structure is still made of mild steel. This will typically be something like A500/A513 hot roll tube. The hitch receiver generally goes through one more drawing process, similar to A513 type 5 DOM tubing, to remove the internal seam. This will give us a strength of about 65-58kpsi tensile with a 3/16-1/4" wall thickness. What I typically see is that if the pin is VERY strong material like a 150kpsi+, you will start to see tearing in the hitch tube before the pin fails.

This would be on test rigs where you can isolate things to get results in one specific area. The forces this requires are much higher than anyone would typically be willing to put on their vehicle through and would feel frankly frightening. Forces of 40-60k+ to break a decent quality 5/8" hitch pin would likely result in a very bent hitch cross tube. That bent cross tube is going to be a VERY good indicator that you are doing something you shouldn't.

Note: Beware of hitches with a very short distance from the pin hole to the face of the hitch. 2.5" from the hole to the end of the hitch would be what I would call 'normal' for a 2.0 hitch. There are definitely hitches out there with concerningly little material between the hole and end.

What would I recommend for a hitch pin.....

A Curt 21507 is rated and tested to operate it's entire life at 21,000lbs by the manufacturer. It has a lifetime warranty against breakage. That 21k number may seem 'low', but that is including what I would say is a HEALTHY factor of safety to account for the service life and fatigue cycles. These are typically $10 or less....commonly $5 shipped on amazon.


MasterLock 1465DAT. These do not have an official rating, but they still do still come with a lifetime warranty against breakage. I like these units because of the integrated retainer that you can't lose, but they still retain a solid pin. These are listed as stainless steel. They are $20 at your local tractor supply, Amazon has them for $11 commonly.


Not many manufacturers I have found offer a 'rating' or a warranty. I don't think the hitch pin is honestly THAT much of a point of concern as long as it is properly supported. If you want to use something like a grade 8 bolt, make sure that the unthreaded shank extends completely across the hitch. You do not want a threaded section loaded in shear. The reduction in minor diameter makes it much weaker along with the sharp corners of the treads will lead to fatigue cracking over time. ( not to mention the threads chewing up the host tube ).

I hope that helps.
 

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