What did you do to your Mitsubishi today?

[jhill15]

The way it works on my 98 is that you program both transmitters if you want both to work. This process would be a whole lot easier if the keyless module was somewhere accessible, not underneath cargo area trim, since it has a toggle switch for programming.

Oh man thats tough! My fob should be here tuesday so I will post back on how it goes. Thanks Eric M

 

[zwalcheff]

I decided it was about time to grease up all the zurk fittings again since i have done a couple shallow water crossings over the last two weeks and am leaving on a 2 day excursion this afternoon.

Currently deciding how i want to proceed with my rear rocker panels as they are invading my escape angle on a regular basis. The drivers side one already got smashed up and inwards which actually worked out great as it is exactly what i was wanting, however now i am not sure how to get the passenger side to do the same thing (driver side was trail induced). I may end up cutting them off and welding a plate over the opening like i saw on another build post, however i am not the best welder so that would require me getting someone with some decent welding skills over to help out (luckily my father is a welder).

So, with that said i think i am going to try to induce the same situation that smashed the drivers side up and in myself on the passenger side. I need to get this done today as i am hitting some serious roads tomorrow with a couple jeep'er buddies of mine. My tentative plan is to jack the rear passenger side up with my high lift and then somehow drop the rear rocker panel down onto something i rig up that pushes up and inwards at the same time. Worst case i screw it up and am forced to do some cutting and welding.

Driver side quarter panel smashed in perfectly in my opinion:




Now to figure out how to do the passenger side the same way:

 

[rxinhed]

Still upside down...unless you're in Australia.

 

[bikerjosh]

The way it works on my 98 is that you program both transmitters if you want both to work. This process would be a whole lot easier if the keyless module was somewhere accessible, not underneath cargo area trim, since it has a toggle switch for programming.

I thought it was supposed to be under the dash? I bought a replacement key fob just haven't programmed. Where was your module in the cargo area?
thanks

 

[Eric M]

The FSM makes it look as if it under the trim covering the D pillar, while its antenna is above the right side cargo bay speaker.

 

[1morebike]

This mean you're keeping it?

Also that hitch setup is what I want, I don't like the stock setup.

Jdavis, brought me my new to me Gen 2 steering gearbox for my Gen 1 . Thanks again!

That's a good question but I'm going up Tacoma next weekend to pick up some gen 2 front seats and hopefully some gen 2 trailing arms so...

Yeah the hitch set up is pretty nice they guy who originally owed this thing loved the crap out of it and did some kinda cool stuff although not so well executed.

 

[Jay Ayala]

Dudes, I finished the hard part of retrofitting power windows into my Raider a little while ago. Now I need to finish the power door locks. This has taken me practically all weekend. I had to create a wiring harness essentially from scratch. I'll have a technical post on here for you guys with Gen I's later this week. Tomorrow I'll wrap up all the details.

Next up, it will be time to remove and clean the rest of the interior then reinstall. After that, Nutsert all the interior panels for easy removal. Then new steering components.


1989 Dodge Raider 3.0L
1997 Mitsubishi Montero 3.5L

 

[rxinhed]

Jay, I would have donated front door wiring looms to you...

 

[Sabre]

Put front wheel bearings into my Gen III today, a task I've never done before on an independent suspension vehicle. The first one took about 6 hours, the second one took about 45 minutes.

Now I iz smarterer!

 

[Jay Ayala]

Jay, I would have donated front door wiring looms to you...

I really appreciate that. I have the door wiring harnesses already. The wiring harness that I had to create was because my manual crank windows have a configuration on the main engine wiring harness under the dashboard that is missing wires and associated connectors to receive the door harnesses you mentioned. There was no way of getting around that unfortunately. I had to add additional wiring to get this to work. You will see all these details in my upcoming retrofit tech topic.

I had a chance to test the power window operation about an hour ago now that all the mechanical and electrical is in its final permanent placement. Everything works like a charm. I'm so excited.


1989 Dodge Raider 3.0L
1997 Mitsubishi Montero 3.5L

 

[raylesk]

89 raider

Got mine dirty today but made a load of money

 

[jhill15]

Got mine dirty today but made a load of money

That is the coolest thing i've seen in a long time!!!!

 

[Inyo_man]

Put front wheel bearings into my Gen III today, a task I've never done before on an independent suspension vehicle. The first one took about 6 hours, the second one took about 45 minutes.

Now I iz smarterer!

Well done, this is on my list in the next few months.
It sounds like there were quite a few tricks you learned in the first pass to hone the time down to under an hour.
Do tell...

 

[Sabre]

Well done, this is on my list in the next few months.
It sounds like there were quite a few tricks you learned in the first pass to hone the time down to under an hour.
Do tell...

Hahaha...I downloaded instructions that seemed pretty clear, but later turned out to be written by an experienced mechanic who took for granted a lot of knowledge and experience on the part of the reader!

In a nutshell...
1. With truck on jackstands, remove wheel.
2. Pry off center cap, remove cotter pin, remove axle nut & washer. Note that you can push the splined axle in an inch or so. If it doesn't slide easily, you might need to tap it out when it's time to remove the hub.
3. Remove the 3 bolts that secure the wheel speed sensor, the brake hose support bracket and the small c-shaped metal shield that covers the toothed ring on the axle. Remove the small shield.
4. Remove the brake caliper; hang it up out of the way with a bungee cord.
5. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the lower ball joint. Here's where things went pear-shaped. The instructions had the glib suggestion to "tap the joint loose." DO NOT hammer on the threaded stud. Not even a little bit, not even with a piece of wood or lead mallet. DO NOT hit it. Don't say I didn't warn you. Do not use a pickle fork. Do not break the dent puller that you've reconfigured to become an impromptu bearing press. DO lift up a bit on the ball joint stud with a floor jack while hammering the living bejeepers out of the SIDE of the lower knuckle (90° to the threaded stud). Beat it long and hard while avoiding all the delicate bits in there. The tapered stud will, at some point, simply pop loose.
6. Repeat this exact procedure with the tie rod.
7. Repeat this exact procedure with the upper ball joint. I used a piece of 2x4 and the floor jack to put upward force on the upper control arm for this. When it releases the whole hub assembly will sort of fall into your hands. If the splined axle doesn't easily slide out of the hub, tap it gently with a wooden block. Stand up, rub your aching back, curse, and relocate to the workbench.
8. Remove the four bolts on the back of the hub holding the bearing to the knuckle.
9. Remove the single bolt holding the brake disc shield and remove the shield.
10. Remove the single Phillips-head screw holding the rotor to the hub.
11. Note the two threaded holes on the rotor in addition to the countersunk one where that screw just came from. These holes are used to drive the rotor off the hub. Using a bolt of a certain size (didn't note the size or pitch) thread into these holes until the bolt bottoms, then drive just a bit more and the rotor lifts right off. Set it aside.
12. Support the knuckle assembly in a big vise or between a couple of 4x4s or something. Use a drift or punch or dull cold chisel or something to drive the bearing assembly out of the knuckle. It takes a bit to start seeing progress but it'll ease on out with no difficulty...just be patient and go around the circumference of the bearing as you drive. I wasn't successful trying to hit the bearing in the center...it's not a question of damaging the bearing (it's junk), but you need more focused force to drive the thing out.
13. Use emery cloth to dress up the inside of the hub sleeve; it will be a bit rusty.
14. Grease the outside of the new bearing hub and the inside of the hub sleeve. Insert the bearing hub. You won't need to hammer anything as it presses right in. Note that the bolt holes align only one way.
15. Replace the brake rotor (yes, it's held on with only one small screw).
16. Replace the brake disc shield.
17. Grease the tapers where the two ball joints and tie rod will be. Grease the axle splines & inside of bearing hub where splines will slide in.
18. Slide the lower ball joint in place and thread the bolt on to hold it in place.
19. Use the floor jack to raise the suspension a bit, fitting the upper ball joint together.
20. Reassemble the tie rod connection.
21. Tighten the two ball joints and the tie rod end and torque to spec; replace cotter pins.
22. Replace brake caliper & tighten the two bolts to spec.
23. Replace the small c-shaped shield, brake hose holder bracket and wheel sensor (3 bolts total).
24. Replace the axle washer & nut, torque to spec & replace the cotter pin.
25. Lightly grease the metal cap and tap it carefully into place.
26. Install the wheel. Done.

 

[Inyo_man]

^^^^
Thanks a heap!!!
Great blow-by-blow instructions!!