what do I need to know about 2002 discovery se
- Thread starter blueSTX
- Start date
Mbanzi
New member
Having just recently gone through this with a 2001 SE7, here a few points that may help. Owning an old Land Rover is somewhat like having a baby: periods of sheer joy intermingled with lots of crying, screaming and cleaning up crap! 
Here are a few more tips I got somewhere on the web:
Before you start the engine:
Take off the oil cap & look at it. is there any moisture on it? While you have that off, put your nose up to the filler tube & take a whiff, does it smell like coolant or exhaust? Check the dipstick, does it look creamy or like chocolate milk? It shouldn't! Look at the head gasket, is there signs of oil leaks along the bottom of the cylinder head? Look for evidence of coolant leaks. if you find some look for the source, if it's not coming from a hose, then it may be coming from the bad head gasket. Look at the coolant reservoir, is it empty? It may just be low, but it may be low because the owner can't keep it full as the coolant leaks from the head gasket. Leave the coolant cap off & start the engine.
After you start the engine:
Pay constant attention to how the engine runs. If it sounds like it's mis-firing, that's a good (bad) sign that the HG is blown. after the engine warms up a little, go back to the coolant tank & look in the filler hole. There is a small return hose that empties into the tank at the neck of the tank. Grab the accelerator bowden cable & rev the engine slightly & hold it steady. Coolant should start streaming out of that hose inlet, watch the stream for interruptions. This hose is how the cooling system bleeds air from the system. If the stream is constantly interrupted, that may be exhaust entering the system through the HG. Put the cap back on. Walk around, the vehicle looking and SMELLING for active coolant leaks, that weren't there with the engine running. When you get to the exhaust pipe, look for evidence of coolant blowing out the pipe. Some moisture is normal, but it shouldn't be slick, or smell like coolant. place your hand a few inches away from the pipe & let the exhaust blow on it a bit, You are looking for coolant or chunks of debris blowing out the tail pipe. finish walking around to the hood constantly looking & smelling for coolant. when you get to the engine bay, smell for exhaust too, & check the block for leaks again & close the hood. If you are satisfied, go drive it.
On the drive:
Again, pay close attention for any kind of misfiring at every stage of the test drive! Take it to a freeway ramp & floor it. How does it accelerate? These aren't race cars, but it should pick up reasonably well, if it doesn't it's a problem. once at cruising speed, pass someone by speeding up. Does it want to go faster, or is it not cooperating? Turn on the heat to a high temp, it should get warm if it doesn't then thats a sign that there is more air in the system, possibly from a bad HG.
After you get back:
Leave the Disco running, & do the engine running walk around again, BUT DO NOT TOUCH THE COOLANT CAP!!! You are looking & smelling at & for the same things as before.
If you get through this & you still aren't sure, take it to a mechanic & have it inspected. $100 now could save you thousands later!
More links:
Land Rover D II buyers guide by one of your friendly neighborhood Land Rover nuts.
Buyer’s Guide: Purchasing a Discovery II
- Get a code scanner and scan for engine codes. Don't bother with a LR specific scanner, all that really gives you is the ABS codes (and you will 99% have the 3 Amigos issue). Vacuum leaks are common, I had to replace the "valley" gasket (intake manifold).
- Cooling system issues is the biggest problem on these vehicles. Check if the hoses & thermostat are original. Even if they aren't, plan to replace EVERY hose and install a 180 degree thermostat. Cooling system flush isn't a bad idea either. Get rid of the evil DexCool coolant and use something like Peak Global. If you can get hold of a OBD temperature gauge (or a code reader with live data display) hook it up and drive with it. DO NOT RELY on the LR temp gauge, it is completely useless. You should not be seeing temperatures approaching 220 degrees. Mine varies between 180-196 degrees during normal city driving.
- If you have air suspension (not sure if the SE has like the SE7), the bags will leak at some point. Plan on replacing air bags or the air suspension with coils.
- If the front drive shaft universal joints have not been replaced with greasable universals, plan on replacing the drive shaft or upgrading the universals ASAP before your drive shaft self-destructs.
- Service records are helpful. Ask if the head gaskets have been replaced.
- Check for sunroof leaks.
- Check that all power door locks & sunroofs open & close.
Here are a few more tips I got somewhere on the web:
Before you start the engine:
Take off the oil cap & look at it. is there any moisture on it? While you have that off, put your nose up to the filler tube & take a whiff, does it smell like coolant or exhaust? Check the dipstick, does it look creamy or like chocolate milk? It shouldn't! Look at the head gasket, is there signs of oil leaks along the bottom of the cylinder head? Look for evidence of coolant leaks. if you find some look for the source, if it's not coming from a hose, then it may be coming from the bad head gasket. Look at the coolant reservoir, is it empty? It may just be low, but it may be low because the owner can't keep it full as the coolant leaks from the head gasket. Leave the coolant cap off & start the engine.
After you start the engine:
Pay constant attention to how the engine runs. If it sounds like it's mis-firing, that's a good (bad) sign that the HG is blown. after the engine warms up a little, go back to the coolant tank & look in the filler hole. There is a small return hose that empties into the tank at the neck of the tank. Grab the accelerator bowden cable & rev the engine slightly & hold it steady. Coolant should start streaming out of that hose inlet, watch the stream for interruptions. This hose is how the cooling system bleeds air from the system. If the stream is constantly interrupted, that may be exhaust entering the system through the HG. Put the cap back on. Walk around, the vehicle looking and SMELLING for active coolant leaks, that weren't there with the engine running. When you get to the exhaust pipe, look for evidence of coolant blowing out the pipe. Some moisture is normal, but it shouldn't be slick, or smell like coolant. place your hand a few inches away from the pipe & let the exhaust blow on it a bit, You are looking for coolant or chunks of debris blowing out the tail pipe. finish walking around to the hood constantly looking & smelling for coolant. when you get to the engine bay, smell for exhaust too, & check the block for leaks again & close the hood. If you are satisfied, go drive it.
On the drive:
Again, pay close attention for any kind of misfiring at every stage of the test drive! Take it to a freeway ramp & floor it. How does it accelerate? These aren't race cars, but it should pick up reasonably well, if it doesn't it's a problem. once at cruising speed, pass someone by speeding up. Does it want to go faster, or is it not cooperating? Turn on the heat to a high temp, it should get warm if it doesn't then thats a sign that there is more air in the system, possibly from a bad HG.
After you get back:
Leave the Disco running, & do the engine running walk around again, BUT DO NOT TOUCH THE COOLANT CAP!!! You are looking & smelling at & for the same things as before.
If you get through this & you still aren't sure, take it to a mechanic & have it inspected. $100 now could save you thousands later!
More links:
Land Rover D II buyers guide by one of your friendly neighborhood Land Rover nuts.
Buyer’s Guide: Purchasing a Discovery II
davis31052
Adventurer
Join Disco Web and landroverforums.com. A wealth of info there. Have a tough hide when positing on Disco Web though.
MLu
Adventurer
Can't help you with the engine, since it's probably the V8.
Based on personal experience, I'd worry about leaking fluid lines. ACE, power steering, transmission cooler and brake lines have all given me problems over the past few years of ownership and they were all pretty frustrating. I'd spend some quality time underneath the car with a flashlight and a wire brush. If you're out of the rust belt and it hasn't been up to the windows in mud frequently then it's less of a worry.
Some electrical gremlins, but far from as bad as some will tell you. A stone chip left to rust just above the windshield let in water down the A-pillar and into the body control unit, same thing happened with water coming in from the front sunroof. As for the sunroof, the leak turned out to be somewhere around the frame of the sunroof, easily fixed with a bead of high-quality silicone.
Amazingly, so far no problems with the air suspension... the bags are actually pretty good, I'm guessing a lot of the discos are still on their original bags even though they are over 15 years old.
Door locks, windows, various other little but annoying things like that will pester you.
On a positive note though, everything that could possibly go wrong with this vehicle has already gone wrong, been fixed and documented and there's probably a youtube video on how to fix it.
Based on personal experience, I'd worry about leaking fluid lines. ACE, power steering, transmission cooler and brake lines have all given me problems over the past few years of ownership and they were all pretty frustrating. I'd spend some quality time underneath the car with a flashlight and a wire brush. If you're out of the rust belt and it hasn't been up to the windows in mud frequently then it's less of a worry.
Some electrical gremlins, but far from as bad as some will tell you. A stone chip left to rust just above the windshield let in water down the A-pillar and into the body control unit, same thing happened with water coming in from the front sunroof. As for the sunroof, the leak turned out to be somewhere around the frame of the sunroof, easily fixed with a bead of high-quality silicone.
Amazingly, so far no problems with the air suspension... the bags are actually pretty good, I'm guessing a lot of the discos are still on their original bags even though they are over 15 years old.
Door locks, windows, various other little but annoying things like that will pester you.
On a positive note though, everything that could possibly go wrong with this vehicle has already gone wrong, been fixed and documented and there's probably a youtube video on how to fix it.
joshasbury
New member
I recently replaced my 04 Discvery with a 2016. Everything mentioned above is absolutely true. I'll throw a couple more logs on the fire for you.
1. I went through 3 coolant reservoirs due to a pinhole leak forming. I was never sure if it was caused by a gremlin with the cooling system's pressure or if it was just faulty engineering of the reservoir. Either way, I always kept plumbers putty and an extra bottle of coolant just in case.
2. The window motors will fail. Learn how to pop the door panels off so you don't overpay on a relatively simple repair.
That said, enjoy the Disco. Despite all the issues I've had, the 2016 D4 is my third. You'll get to know and appreciate the truck -- warts and all.
1. I went through 3 coolant reservoirs due to a pinhole leak forming. I was never sure if it was caused by a gremlin with the cooling system's pressure or if it was just faulty engineering of the reservoir. Either way, I always kept plumbers putty and an extra bottle of coolant just in case.
2. The window motors will fail. Learn how to pop the door panels off so you don't overpay on a relatively simple repair.
That said, enjoy the Disco. Despite all the issues I've had, the 2016 D4 is my third. You'll get to know and appreciate the truck -- warts and all.
I bought a 2001 SE7 ten years ago that had 50,000 miles on it that now has 149,000. Had all of the usual stuff - throttle body heater leak, head gasket leak, rear air bags leak, ACE banjo fitting leak, front drive shaft rebuild and 3 amigos. All of them are fixable, did all the work myself other than just taking the drive shaft to a driveline shop. I've driven it hard, taken it on many long excursions both on and off road and it has never left me stranded. Despite their reputation the Discos always seem to manage to at least get you home. I think the bad rep is somewhat of a stigma and the result is that for a guy who can turn a wrench they are a real bargain. Believe it or not I paid $18,000 for mine back in 2007, I believe it was close to $35k when it was new. Now you can pick one up for next to nothing. On the other side a lot of good reputations are largely myth as well. Look up Toyota head gasket or Honda Oddessy transmission woes for a couple of examples.
Bottom line is you're buying a fifteen year old truck that probably has some deferred maintenance issues so go in with your eyes open. There is something about the Disco that lures people, you need to be objective and aware. Don't be blinded by lust, there are plenty of them available. The 2002 and 2003 models do not have a center differential lock so if you were planning on any mildly serious off roading you might want to keep that in mind. The 2004's have the CDL and the bigger 4.6 liter engine.
Bottom line is you're buying a fifteen year old truck that probably has some deferred maintenance issues so go in with your eyes open. There is something about the Disco that lures people, you need to be objective and aware. Don't be blinded by lust, there are plenty of them available. The 2002 and 2003 models do not have a center differential lock so if you were planning on any mildly serious off roading you might want to keep that in mind. The 2004's have the CDL and the bigger 4.6 liter engine.