What foam sheets are Blissmobil, Krug, Bimobil, GXV, EarthRoamer, etc using in their composite panels and what density foam is used?

Doggo and I

New member
I am in the planning stage of designing an 220" X 98" habitat for an overlander expedition vehicle for full-time living. I have planned to make my own foam core composite panels using 3-4" foam sheets with E-glass skins and then vacuum bagging the panels to consolidate the epoxy and E-glass. I have heard major expedition companies use polyurethane foam, but this word of mouth not confirmation from the companies themselves. I also need to know what density of foam to use to be structurally sound. GXV has a second company called Adventure Trucks.com and they sell composite panels to DIY builders, unfortunately they charge $26,100 for an 18' box, no windows, no door, just the flat panels. Does anybody have confirmation of the type or even brand of foam sheets used as core material and what density is used?
 

Doggo and I

New member
I don't know your answer but I hope you've looked at Total Composites as an option. Seems way simpler (unless you're already in a shop that does panels). https://totalcomposites.com/
Yes, I have checked out Total Composites. I have heard their panels are made in China and not of the same quality as companies produce in Deutschland, Austria, and the Netherlands. Thank you for your reply
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
Recognizing your concerns about the cost, I would still think long and hard about trying to build my own 18x7 or 18x8 panels.

Successfully buying materials, building molds or even just support tables, gluing, assembling, bagging, uniformly vacuuming, and curing the panels, with no delaminating and acceptable levels of quality (as you implied, better than China, as good as Europe)…. Sounds like a difficult and expensive project.

I would guess that it takes several months to a year and costs close to or even more than $26k in the end.

If you do this, please post lots of detail along the way. I find it fascinating and would love to see how it works out.
 

DirtWhiskey

Western Dirt Rat
Total Composites. China or not proof is in the pudding. Hundreds of campers in the wild. And I'll bet China makes a way better panel than any DIY person can. There have been multiple sets for sale here in the last few weeks months FYI.
 

Doggo and I

New member
Total Composites. China or not proof is in the pudding. Hundreds of campers in the wild. And I'll bet China makes a way better panel than any DIY person can. There have been multiple sets for sale here in the last few weeks months FYI.
Thanks for the heads up about set of panels for sale
 

Peter_n_Margaret

Adventurer
20 years ago, I used commercially made panels from a company in Australia named Vanglass. Their panels use closed cell polyurethane of various thicknesses. They also make a panel for floors using PET foam as it withstands foot traffic better than the polyurethane. That is a tad heavier. We are still driving that vehicle.

This rig was made by a friend using DIY panels he laid up and vacuum bagged on a shed concrete floor.
The side benefit of DIY panels was being able to custom make each panel for strength and thickness. The complete interior is also polyurethane sandwich panel.
10-01-30 GM 004E.jpg

Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
 

Doggo and I

New member
20 years ago, I used commercially made panels from a company in Australia named Vanglass. Their panels use closed cell polyurethane of various thicknesses. They also make a panel for floors using PET foam as it withstands foot traffic better than the polyurethane. That is a tad heavier. We are still driving that vehicle.

This rig was made by a friend using DIY panels he laid up and vacuum bagged on a shed concrete floor.
The side benefit of DIY panels was being able to custom make each panel for strength and thickness. The complete interior is also polyurethane sandwich panel.
View attachment 794382

Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
You hit the nail on the head, I want to be able to control the thickness of the S-Glass or carbon fiber for all the panels. I will be using foam core composite panel on the interior as well, any divider wall, the kitchen cabinetry, and storage built in cabinets and drawers. I plan on building the interior panels with a 3/4 or 1" foam core, a layer of 3kx3k glass or carbon and then a veneer of real maple, the panel will be vacuum bagged on a flat concrete floor, no tool/mold. I will be testing the panels for strength and stiffness, if the panels with the GRF are too strong I may just use maple veneer skins on the foam core as the skins take the compression and tension loads. Thank you for your reply
 

Peter_n_Margaret

Adventurer
I plan on building the interior panels with a 3/4 or 1" foam core,
Mine are 19mm (total, including 1.5mm skins each side). That was as thin as I could buy and was ample, and sometimes excessive, but most weight is in the skins. Panel weight was about 6kg/m2.
The furniture contributes significantly to the structural integrity of the box.
My mate's (in the pic) used panel with 12mm foam in some places. Quite adequate.
My new build will use a lot of multiwall polycarbonate roof sheeting in thickness of 10mm to 19mm for the interior build.
The 19mm thick one at the bottom of the pic is 3.1kg/m2. The twin wall 10mm thick one at the top is 1.7kg/m2.
P1050171E.JPG
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
 
Last edited:

Doggo and I

New member
Mine are 19mm (total, including 1.5mm skins each side). That was as thin as I could buy and was ample, and sometimes excessive, but most weight is in the skins. Panel weight was about 6kg/m2.
The furniture contributes significantly to the structural integrity of the box.
My mate's (in the pic) used panel with 12mm foam in some places. Quite adequate.
My new build will use a lot of multiwall polycarbonate roof sheeting in thickness of 10mm to 19mm for the interior build.
The 19mm thick one at the bottom of the pic is 3.1kg/m2. The twin wall 10mm thick one at the top is 1.7kg/m2.
View attachment 794492
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
Hi Peter, 12 mm foam core would be perfect for making drawer carcass' and 19mm for drawer fronts. I will be using mechanical and chemical joining techniques for building the cabinetry and drawers and doors. The each piece will be joined with its neighbor with dovetail joints and Sikaflex or foam specific adhesive so there is no possible way for the cabinetry to come apart. On doors I will incorporate a narrow 19mm strip of hard maple at the edge of the foam core on two sides so I can securely screw on hinges and a door/drawer pull(I am considering just routing a finger groove instead of having pulls to save weight), any place where the core is showing will be edge banded in maple veneer.
I will have a fixed queen size bed(1.5mx2m) over the garage area at the rear of the habitat and there will be a dividing wall between the those two areas and the kitchen and dining area. That vertical wall may be slightly thicker in core and GFR skins as there will be cleats epoxied to the rear side to support the bed, there will also be reinforcement angle pieces epoxied on either side of the wall to the habitat walls to make sure it is not moving anywhere. At the top the overhead cabinets will butt up against that divider wall and the kitchen cabinetry down low. I may also mount so high shelving to the dividing wall in the bed area and possibly a small TV on the dining side of that dividing wall. My ultimate goal is to keep the habitat/interior as light and strong as possible thus leaving more weight allowance for carrying extra freshwater, a larger diesel tank, adding more battery capacity, adding more solar panels, a second freezer, etc, important items that will allow me to be off grid longer. After making a few small test panels I can better assess what strength and stiffness I need and production panels can be made as such. I also do not want to waste space with thicker panels than necessary as every square inch is precious space and limited.
 

rruff

Explorer
You hit the nail on the head, I want to be able to control the thickness of the S-Glass or carbon fiber for all the panels. I will be using foam core composite panel on the interior as well, any divider wall, the kitchen cabinetry, and storage built in cabinets and drawers.
Sounds a little like this build. Lots of work... and I'd recommend not bothering him much as he isn't done yet... ;): https://forum.expeditionportal.com/...icle-build-thread.232762/page-25#post-3124834

Take a look at Carbon Core's website. I used their PVC foam, 4 lb/ft^3. Or use Divinycell if you want to spend more money. I did hand layup, with no vacuum bagging... hand layup was bad enough. :confused:

I used carbon on parts I wanted to be stiff (base/floor and door), as it's ~3x the stiffness of FG (eglass) for the same thickness. In "whack it with a hammer" tests it seemed to crack more easily than FG. When I bought the carbon, a place had 60" wide 11oz for only $17/yd, but I don't see it anymore. Most of my structure is 38mm foam and ~32oz FG cloth for each side. Each skin and the foam core weigh ~.50 lb/ft^2 for 1.5 lb/ft^2 total.

Unless you have a particular need to create a camper that is cutting edge light, or you just like time consuming science projects, I'd advise against your approach. The weight savings will be minuscule in the grand scheme of things. Have TC or someone else build you a box, and be done with it. Or make your own panels using foam and glued-on sheets.
 

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