Floor will be plywood.
Loads will fairly evenly spread out. I intend to make a camper cabin.
It would be pretty smooth if I could think a way to have a camper cabin removable so I would have a flat deck for non camping uses.
If that short stub at the rear is intended to be a hitch receiver, I would extend it to the last crossmember for greater strength.
Its all in the mass, not just the shape and size. Doubling the wall thickness doubles the price, and then you get into DOM and CREW vs. HREW... Etc etc. Best advice is to call a couple wholesale steel suppliers and shop prices. Get in the phone book.Can any of you guys that buy steel regularly give rough prices? Like 2x3 per foot, 1x1. 3/4" square, 2x4,ect. Just trying to get a rough estimate of what cost would be for a m416 size trailer. And what wall thickness is best for the 2x2 tongue? So a standard receiver will fit.
What is a good length tongue for a m416 size? I know stock is a bit tough on backing. And I would like a bit more clearance in the tight stuff.
Can any of you guys that buy steel regularly give rough prices? Like 2x3 per foot, 1x1. 3/4" square, 2x4,ect. Just trying to get a rough estimate of what cost would be for a m416 size trailer. And what wall thickness is best for the 2x2 tongue? So a standard receiver will fit.
I have used the website for metal supermarkets for estimating the metal costs for various projects.
Their website is really good. http://www.metalsupermarkets.com
I have been told by a supplier that their hitch reciever tube is 2.5 x 2.5 x 0.238. I am sure the tube size mentioned by xsapper would do the job but a little thicker wall would not hurt and would make for a snugger fit with less slop.
I was quoted around $130 for a 16 foot length.