What tire size?
- Thread starter magarnigel
- Start date
I've had CJ's & YJ's over the years running P235's, 31's, 32's, 33's, 35's, and 37's. My last Cj was running a 5.3,700r4, 60/14, SOA, stretched...I sold it last fall.
I have got a bone stock YJ now with a 4.0/ auto, and my build plan is an OME lift, 8.8 in the rear, Selectable lockers at both ends, 4.10's, and 31's. I'll fab up some simple bumpers with good recovery points, some rocker gaurds, and a flat skids...and call it good.
It is a slippery slope when you start modding a Jeep, and it seems to come to a point where it is just never ending.
I have got a bone stock YJ now with a 4.0/ auto, and my build plan is an OME lift, 8.8 in the rear, Selectable lockers at both ends, 4.10's, and 31's. I'll fab up some simple bumpers with good recovery points, some rocker gaurds, and a flat skids...and call it good.
It is a slippery slope when you start modding a Jeep, and it seems to come to a point where it is just never ending.
magarnigel
New member
I'm realizing this very quickly. I figure as long as I pace myself with the mods, I shouldn't get too overwhelmed.
I don't have any photos that show the set up well, but below is a link to Skid Row's cite showing the engine/tranny skid which bolts to the transfer case skid/cross member.
The combination of the long flat engine skid bolting to the transfer case skid/cross member gets rid of the scoop effect of the oem set up.
http://www.skidplates.com/Engine_97_TJ.asp
An unintended benefit of the large surface area is that you can only sink so far into even the softest, gooeyest muck.:Wow1:
Also, the steering box on the TJ/LJ's hangs low in front, waiting to be eaten by obstacles. Skid Row makes a simple skid plate to protect it too.
JPK
TheBlackSheep
Observer
I also run an 03' TJ 5 speed 4.0L. Initially, the guy who owned it before me had absolutely no idea what he was doing (4" BL?!, sagging Teraflex springs, the list goes on), so I ended up spending a pretty penny to rip all his crap off and start from scratch and do it right, repairing the damage he had already done.
Mine is a 50/50 "Mudcrawler"/Expedition build. 3" Suspension, 1" BL, 1" MML, 1" T-case drop, with Mickey Thompson 33" 12.5 Baja Claws, adjustable front track bar, with rear track bar bracket, 2" Daystar bump stops in the front with bump stop extensions in the back, progressive springs, the works.
Now that suspension is squared away, and after I get some armor (skid plates, rock sliders), and a winch, next on the list is drive-train.
I'll be getting rid of the T-case drop and getting a tummy tuck, with SYE and CV shaft, dropping a Rubicon D44 in the back, with 4.10 gears, an E-locker in the back and an Aussie up front.
So far, just with the suspension modifications, open axles and 3.07 gears, I can handle 3's with little trouble short of some "redneck pinstripes" here and there. And that is fine by me, not being built as a full-on rock crawler.
I'm thankful that I have more of the ExPo bug than I do the Rock bug, because once you go past the 4" lift range, it becomes a new ball of wax, a really expensive one. If you want a strong ExPo Jeep, you can become quite capable with mainly suspension upgrades and very few drive train modifications, as long as you stay off the skinny pedal and let 4Lo do all the work for you when the going gets rough.
For strictly an ExPo Wrangler with an impressive amount of capability and 33" tires, I suggest the following:
- No more than 4" lift - If you go higher, you're looking at CV shafts and SYE's. 2.75 - 3" suspension, with a 1" BL is the way to go and will give you plenty of clearance.
- Adjustable Front Track bar with Rear Track bar Bracket
- 1" MML
- 1" T-case drop (Note: This may not be necessary. Some folks have been able to get away with just the 1" MML without needing a T-case drop)
- Rock-sliders, gas tank skid
That's it. With a little driving skill thrown in to boot, you can ExPo most anything, and handle up to 3's if you want to do some crawling. Just be cautious and get ready to back off the skinny pedal or you'll be getting towed home if you've got a D35 in the back.
Now, I strongly recommend the following at some point if you find yourself ExPo'ing on a regular basis:
- 8-10,000lb Winch
- Tummy Tuck - CV shaft and SYE
- T-Case skid
In closing, be ready to bend your shifter, re-adjust your linkage, and maybe even cut an inch or two off the bottom of your lower shifter tunnel if you get a BL. Trust me.
Mine is a 50/50 "Mudcrawler"/Expedition build. 3" Suspension, 1" BL, 1" MML, 1" T-case drop, with Mickey Thompson 33" 12.5 Baja Claws, adjustable front track bar, with rear track bar bracket, 2" Daystar bump stops in the front with bump stop extensions in the back, progressive springs, the works.
Now that suspension is squared away, and after I get some armor (skid plates, rock sliders), and a winch, next on the list is drive-train.
I'll be getting rid of the T-case drop and getting a tummy tuck, with SYE and CV shaft, dropping a Rubicon D44 in the back, with 4.10 gears, an E-locker in the back and an Aussie up front.
So far, just with the suspension modifications, open axles and 3.07 gears, I can handle 3's with little trouble short of some "redneck pinstripes" here and there. And that is fine by me, not being built as a full-on rock crawler.
I'm thankful that I have more of the ExPo bug than I do the Rock bug, because once you go past the 4" lift range, it becomes a new ball of wax, a really expensive one. If you want a strong ExPo Jeep, you can become quite capable with mainly suspension upgrades and very few drive train modifications, as long as you stay off the skinny pedal and let 4Lo do all the work for you when the going gets rough.
For strictly an ExPo Wrangler with an impressive amount of capability and 33" tires, I suggest the following:
- No more than 4" lift - If you go higher, you're looking at CV shafts and SYE's. 2.75 - 3" suspension, with a 1" BL is the way to go and will give you plenty of clearance.
- Adjustable Front Track bar with Rear Track bar Bracket
- 1" MML
- 1" T-case drop (Note: This may not be necessary. Some folks have been able to get away with just the 1" MML without needing a T-case drop)
- Rock-sliders, gas tank skid
That's it. With a little driving skill thrown in to boot, you can ExPo most anything, and handle up to 3's if you want to do some crawling. Just be cautious and get ready to back off the skinny pedal or you'll be getting towed home if you've got a D35 in the back.
Now, I strongly recommend the following at some point if you find yourself ExPo'ing on a regular basis:
- 8-10,000lb Winch
- Tummy Tuck - CV shaft and SYE
- T-Case skid
In closing, be ready to bend your shifter, re-adjust your linkage, and maybe even cut an inch or two off the bottom of your lower shifter tunnel if you get a BL. Trust me.
I have lurked on this site for a long time and finally decided to register as a member.
This thread is an interesting one as most of us have a definite opinion on what size tire is appropriate for "overlanding".
I've been 4 wheeling for nearly 30 years and have enjoyed both hard core rock crawling and overlanding. We have used Land Cruisers, Troopers, and 4x4 Dodge vans for overlanding and a few years ago purchased an unlimited JK to use for both.
As for tire size there is no "perfect" size for overlanding. Here in the west we have awesome areas to explore, but many of which will lead high into the mountains. Many of these high elevation dirt roads are subject to washouts and can be difficlut to cross with anything less than a 33" tire.
For overlanding in my area (exploring ghost towns and mining camps) I wouldn't go smaller than a 33, but if I lived in the lower elevation areas I probably could get by with a 31.
So keep in mind the terrain you personally will be covering and decide what works best for your terrain not what works best for someone else.
just my 2 cents
This thread is an interesting one as most of us have a definite opinion on what size tire is appropriate for "overlanding".
I've been 4 wheeling for nearly 30 years and have enjoyed both hard core rock crawling and overlanding. We have used Land Cruisers, Troopers, and 4x4 Dodge vans for overlanding and a few years ago purchased an unlimited JK to use for both.
As for tire size there is no "perfect" size for overlanding. Here in the west we have awesome areas to explore, but many of which will lead high into the mountains. Many of these high elevation dirt roads are subject to washouts and can be difficlut to cross with anything less than a 33" tire.
For overlanding in my area (exploring ghost towns and mining camps) I wouldn't go smaller than a 33, but if I lived in the lower elevation areas I probably could get by with a 31.
So keep in mind the terrain you personally will be covering and decide what works best for your terrain not what works best for someone else.
just my 2 cents
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
My recommendation for most 'normal' people....
For a TJ.
-2" lift ( about a million ways to do this, some much better than others )
-Nth degree tummy tucker ( no body lift )
-SYE conversion and CV rear shaft ( w/ adjustable upper control arms in rear )
-front swaybar disconnects ( I like the AEV ones currently )
-255/85r16s or 285/75r16s
With a proper suspension setup you CAN get 33s on with only 2" of lift and stock fenders. It just requires a little tuning.
Even a non-rubicon TJ set up like this will go 99% of the places you would ever need with a decent driver. Add a winch, OBA, then lockers....enjoy for the next few decades.
I'm not a fan of the D35. Ditch it and run a TJ D44. They are pretty easy to find these days and very dependable. If you want to get picky, run the XJ high pinion D30 front to get the driveshaft up out of the way and have MUCH better angles with the tummy tucker. Discs on the D44 are a blessing, I think the conversion is under $500 now.
Do the ultra-short SYE conversion, the extra driveline length is worth it.
Don't buy stupid wide wheels. The stock Rubi wheels work pretty dang good with 255s. The old AEV 16s worked well with 285s. You can run a 'bent' lower control arm in front for almost 100% factory steering angle with 33s on factory wheels.
For a TJ.
-2" lift ( about a million ways to do this, some much better than others )
-Nth degree tummy tucker ( no body lift )
-SYE conversion and CV rear shaft ( w/ adjustable upper control arms in rear )
-front swaybar disconnects ( I like the AEV ones currently )
-255/85r16s or 285/75r16s
With a proper suspension setup you CAN get 33s on with only 2" of lift and stock fenders. It just requires a little tuning.
Even a non-rubicon TJ set up like this will go 99% of the places you would ever need with a decent driver. Add a winch, OBA, then lockers....enjoy for the next few decades.
I'm not a fan of the D35. Ditch it and run a TJ D44. They are pretty easy to find these days and very dependable. If you want to get picky, run the XJ high pinion D30 front to get the driveshaft up out of the way and have MUCH better angles with the tummy tucker. Discs on the D44 are a blessing, I think the conversion is under $500 now.
Do the ultra-short SYE conversion, the extra driveline length is worth it.
Don't buy stupid wide wheels. The stock Rubi wheels work pretty dang good with 255s. The old AEV 16s worked well with 285s. You can run a 'bent' lower control arm in front for almost 100% factory steering angle with 33s on factory wheels.
If you were to re-read my post, you will discover that I was saying that what seems a modest, less than 7% increase in tire height makes a substantial difference.
In other words, I was writing the opposite of what you infer.
JPK