where_the_heffalump_roams 917 AF

[NatersXJ6]

😂 I almost wrote Duralast in my last post.

You have crap batteries. Take them back and demand a warranty replacement.

There is virtually no way to get an 8.6V reading, even on a single 12V battery, without a damaged battery.

However, Google the tar out of AGM charge profiles, or read stuff in the solar / power section here. Vehicles with factory AGM batteries have 14.2+ volt alternator outputs. Yours is probably not enough to expect max life out of those batteries. In my experience, if you get 18-24 months from Duralast you’re doing well. They will happily swap them under warranty, watch Tommy Boy to see what that means.

I destroyed some very expensive Odyssey batteries in my Jeep thinking I was doing good before I figured this out.

 

[where_the_heffalump_roams]

So using my friends advice and meter. He had me going through the fuses and checking "continuity". Al l this was done with the truck batteries disconnected.

He stated the meter should read "overload" if the circuit is correct. He found "529" at the main power wire that feeds the truck.
So I checked the fuse box and identified 3 areas where there wasn't an overload reading.


The ones circled. The bottom left is the high beams. The high beam switch was actually on. But when it was turned off, no change occurred. The next one to the right is a heater blower switch which was on as well at the lowest fan speed setting. When it was turned off, the reading went to overload, it went higher with each fan speed. Strange as the fans do turn off when the ignition is cut. The last one is the instrument panel. Not sure why that might a problematic area.

 

[NatersXJ6]

I’m not familiar with that type of meter, I’m sure many aren’t. If you want good advice from those results, maybe tell everyone what exact meter brand and model you are using, what setting it was on, and where exactly you are checking from and to?

However, I still think you have a damaged battery and replacing the pair will likely set you right for several years.

 

[where_the_heffalump_roams]

My buddy isn't an auto-electrician. But he is experienced with a/c circuits and electricity. He was basically explaining circuits and how the overload reading was indicating there wasn't a fault in the circuit.

We were using his Milwaukee "clamp meter".Like this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...Bexa-NEvd5Wuxy8B8qkaAti_EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Just did a break internet read on replacing flooded batteries with AGMs. Lots of mixed info out there regarding the pros/cons.

 

[NatersXJ6]

Were you testing from one side of the fuse to the other, or from one side of the fuse to a known ground?

I’m going to hope it was to a known ground.

In continuity mode (reading ohms, the omega symbol) the meter is likely displaying OL, meaning open line, meaning no connection, which is good. Any circuit actually powering something should have a resistance reading of some sort, and the fan circuit resistance would change with speed changes. I’m not 100% certain, but I believe the resistance number should go down as the speed increases, I.E. the circuit increases resistance to slow the fan. Nothing you are describing seems wrong, although something might not be right with that headlight circuit… hard to say without being there.

That particular meter is AC only on the clamp setting. If you can find an AC/DC clamp meter, you can sometimes get a rough idea of the battery load just by clamping the positive cable, however, I think my clamp meter only works above 10A draw, which is a huge parasitic draw, but would definitely kill batteries in a day or two… so maybe you get lucky?

 

[where_the_heffalump_roams]

We tested using a known grown with the fuses removed. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that the fan and and instrumental panel should be reading as open line which I think is the same/similar to overload. As far as I know, these circuits should be closed when the ignition is off. To reiterate, these were all checked when the batteries were removed (charging overnight on a trickle charger).

My main reason for going with AGMs is that I was having major corrosion from a leak or gassing off with the prior batteries. I thought that was why my batteries went flat a week ago. This is all speculation, but I'm wondering if leaving the fan switch on could have caused the draw? Though I thought that circuit was tied to the ignition switch.

Also, if any one could chime in on the gas cap and where I might source one I would also greatly appreciate it. I'm not having any luck with searches. I'm wondering if it's an old style for tractors? That could also leave me stranded.
I'm supposed to host a free medical clinic at a community health center in a couple of days and this could jeopardize that.

 

[NatersXJ6]

Gas caps like that are all over the place. Yes, Tractor Supply should have one, also any major hardware store or place that does lawn tractors and such. Duct tape will keep contaminates out in a pinch.

When you are testing with no power source in continuity mode, you are literally checking for a continuous circuit, thus, OL, open line, means no connection. With a switch open (off) you should have no connection from power (fuse) to ground. Closing the switch (on) means the connection is created. Any numerical reading on the meter represents resistance, indicating that a connection exists. Sometimes, automotive circuits are switched in the ground side of the circuit, you might see some continuity there, hard to say without being hands on. An open switch should still be an open circuit, unless there are multiple switches in the circuit (think dome lights, every door has a switch for the same circuit)…

As far as your choice of battery… there are certainly pros and cons. I personally chose to stick with cheap lead acid even though I know they cook off water all the time in my application. Keeping them topped with distilled water seems easy to me compared with the cost and charging issues I was having in the AGMs.

 

[NatersXJ6]

When you say “found 529” at the main power wire, you mean a continuity check from the positive battery terminal to the negative battery terminal with the batteries disconnected recorded 529 ohms? It should be open line.

The next thing to do would be pull every fuse and then do the same check after installing each fuse back.

The likelihood will be that the draw is found in a stuck relay. You could pull every relay and start working your way back too, but you’ll still have to check all the fuses. As you put each fuse back, pay special attention to the ones that feed relays.

You might also just make a guess and replace the high beam relay (if equipped)…. Based on your note about the high beam circuit.

Of course, I’m drinking and posting on the internet late at night… so this might all turn out to be overthinking!

 

[where_the_heffalump_roams]

When you say “found 529” at the main power wire, you mean a continuity check from the positive battery terminal to the negative battery terminal with the batteries disconnected recorded 529 ohms? It should be open line.

The next thing to do would be pull every fuse and then do the same check after installing each fuse back.

The likelihood will be that the draw is found in a stuck relay. You could pull every relay and start working your way back too, but you’ll still have to check all the fuses. As you put each fuse back, pay special attention to the ones that feed relays.

You might also just make a guess and replace the high beam relay (if equipped)…. Based on your note about the high beam circuit.

Of course, I’m drinking and posting on the internet late at night… so this might all turn out to be overthinking!

Correct, "found 529" at the main power wire lead I then went through every fuse circuit in the panel in the same way. As a way of double checking, if the batteries charge tonight and if I'm able to reinstall them tomorrow. I'l check ohm readings while pulling fuses.

 

[NatersXJ6]

529 Ohms is very high resistance, and at 24V nominal represents a .05A draw. Theoretically, that would take thousands of hours to flatten your battery. 529 milliohms, 0.529 Ohms, is almost 50 amps and could flatten you in 2 hours, and maybe start a fire if it is a short circuit. Knowing if there was a decimal on that meter is important.

Another fuel cap source would be almost any salvage yard. Buy 2, finding those caps on top of gas pumps used to be really common before cars all started to be built with tethered caps.

 

[Joe917]

Locking Fuel Tank Diesel Cap STAINLESS STEEL Mercedes HGV, Atego, Actros 80mm | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Locking Fuel Tank Diesel Cap STAINLESS STEEL Mercedes HGV, Atego, Actros 80mm at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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Pretty sure that is the cap, 80 mm sounds right

 

[where_the_heffalump_roams]

Locking Fuel Tank Diesel Cap STAINLESS STEEL Mercedes HGV, Atego, Actros 80mm | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Locking Fuel Tank Diesel Cap STAINLESS STEEL Mercedes HGV, Atego, Actros 80mm at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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Pretty sure that is the cap, 80 mm sounds right

Thanks Joe!
I ordered a similar sized one from eBay.uk about 1 hour ago. I have been calling dozens of auto/truck/tractor stores here and haven't sourced one locally. I'm going to keep trying.
As far of the electric issues. I hooked up a different voltmeter this morning after the batteries charged all night .They didn't get topped off, but I was able to start the truck. If I hooked this up right, and if I'm understanding what this is reading. I'm getting close to a 2 amp draw somewhere. I went through the fuses and relays in the glove box. Pulled each one one by one while monitoring the meter. I did not see any change. I'm a bit embarrassed with some that set up. It's turned out to be a rough week in the battery box.

 

[NatersXJ6]

Where does the second, smaller positive cable in the picture go? Presumably not to the main fuse box? If you disconnect only that cable, does the amp rating drop to zero?

Also, do you know what the voltages were on each battery before you installed them?

 

[where_the_heffalump_roams]

I believe the smaller cable is from the solar controller. I didn’t pull that but when we checked for an open line, it was reading ok. I’ll try that next though and see if it changes anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Joe917]

the small red cable goes through the fuse holder top of picture then on to the Sterling B to B charger
Those look like small batteries!