Which is better for expedition camper U1300L or U1000L?

cwsqbm

Explorer
Anyone know whether these FMTVs will be availalbe as surplus, or whether it'll be like the HUMVEEs where they're scrapped once they can't be used? (Not totally a thread hijack because this maybe would be a better expedition choice than a U1300 . . . though the one at CMI once was selling for about $300,000, which could get you about a dozen U1300s. :sombrero:)

According to the DOD, the HUMVEEs don't meet DOT, and therefore can't be sold to the general public. I expect the same will happen with the FMTV. To me, its just a scam and a waste of our tax dollars.
 
D

Deleted member 9101

Guest
According to the DOD, the HUMVEEs don't meet DOT, and therefore can't be sold to the general public. I expect the same will happen with the FMTV. To me, its just a scam and a waste of our tax dollars.

Not really, the Humvee has a 30-40 year service life. The Military gets its money out of them.
 

rhodos

Observer
Mike, you are right about the "under licence production" but hey they used the Steyr blueprints, so you basicaly get a Steyr (very similar to the 4x4 MAN 2000 which was made by Steyr too). If you wait a few years it should be possible to import some 12M18 legaly (25 years limit)

bye, Werner

btw, nice build at CMI
 

dzzz

Hi Iain

You make some valid points. We are looking for something to live in semi-permanently but at the same time, we don't need ALL of the luxuries. Some of the large Unicats with all the bells and whistles look wonderful but are sadly out of our price range. Something smaller which still has the basics (berth, kitchen, toilet shower, spare room for the Parisian hookers, etc.) would be all we need.

Cheers

Have you considered less truck? Maybe the Fuso FG? Even the biggest mogs don't have a long wheelbase and are a bit of an extravagance as a base for a camper. There's a lot of knowledge here on how to (and how not to) build an camper on a FG. Heavier trucks will have a higher cost per mile without a lot of added benefit.
If your not building the camper yourself starting with a second-hand expo type vehicle and doing some rehab will almost certainly be less expensive than starting from scratch and it will get you on the road sooner.
Many of us here want to design and build our own campers. But that approach is not necessarily to save money and it can delay actual travel.
True military trucks are fun for regional camping and wheeling but not necessarily for extended travel. Your not going to find may old soldiers looking to pleasure travel in a deuce and a half.
 

Jolly Roger

Adventurer
Have you considered less truck? Maybe the Fuso FG? Even the biggest mogs don't have a long wheelbase and are a bit of an extravagance as a base for a camper.

Actually, the Fuso FG was one of the first trucks we looked at. We have a dealer 5 minutes from where we live and would could pick up a brand new 4x4 until for around $50,000 CDN. The problem is that they run on the Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel which I've been told is not generally available outside of North America and Europe. I've also been told that using lower grade diesel in these vehicles would NOT be a good idea and would lead to all sorts of problems. We could opt for an older FG (if we could find a nice one) which would eliminate the ULSD problem. Do you think the FG could comfortably carry a similar load to a Mog (i.e. nice camper)?
 
Re the "Bad Boy": I wouldn't touch it unless a diagnostic computer was included with diagnosis and parts and electrical diagram software; also guaranteed access to spare parts.

Charlie
 

dzzz

Actually, the Fuso FG was one of the first trucks we looked at. We have a dealer 5 minutes from where we live and would could pick up a brand new 4x4 until for around $50,000 CDN. The problem is that they run on the Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel which I've been told is not generally available outside of North America and Europe. I've also been told that using lower grade diesel in these vehicles would NOT be a good idea and would lead to all sorts of problems. We could opt for an older FG (if we could find a nice one) which would eliminate the ULSD problem. Do you think the FG could comfortably carry a similar load to a Mog (i.e. nice camper)?

I think the FG forum has a ton of information. Perhaps even work arounds for ULSD when leaving North America. Likely the same engine is used throughout the world.

It can't carry as much as the larger mogs but it can carry enough to be an overland -type vehicle. If you look at mogs analytically the only mog that can be made the proper length to carry a good size camper and weight is the U500 due to the conventional frame. Other mogs have wheelbases similar to large cars and a frame design that I've never heard of anyone making longer. Mogs aren't particularly good cab/chassis for campers at the mid price level. They are one of the good choices as high-end cab chassis for two person vehilces.
Does it make sense to start a mid price build paying for portal axles and trying to find an engine/axle combination that can keep up on the interstate? Probably not.
The FG cab id pretty small. My german-sized body likes a german vehicle. But for average size people the FG is an economical, reliable truck.
 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
I suggest you do a bit of research on FG before buying one - seems like you have to know how to mount the camper properly or the chassis will break. Other known problem in the Fuso / Canter range are the front limited slip diffs, shock supports, driveshafts. All of which can be overcome, but I would be wary of buying a second hand one unless you plan on rebuilding it. Same goes for a mog but at least they are stronger to start off with.

As a way of putting things in context, this link is to a page with video of Ron's GXV U500 on the Tanami track - the videos show the good parts. Ron spent 6 hour on this road and all that broke was his fridge.

http://gxvmoghvn.webs.com/australia8tanami.htm
 

dzzz

There's nothing inherently fragile about an FG. Weight and capacity wise it's in the range of a heavy duty pickup. Treat it like a Class 6 or 7 commercial truck and it breaks.

The trick with mounting a camper on any cab chassis is to be leery of becoming an amateur automotive engineer. Not saying don't do it, just when in doubt error on the side of simplicity and proven methods. Real world physics doesn't care if we really don't understand issues like metal fatigue.

Essentially what happened with the FG was point loading a frame that was never designed for that sort of treatment. A mild steel torsion tube unimog is very different from an FG frame.

Personally in a six figure FG build I would start by finding out if there was a way to have All Terrain Warriors do it. Especially if Oz was in the long term travel plan.
 

dzzz

..........

As a way of putting things in context, this link is to a page with video of Ron's GXV U500 on the Tanami track - the videos show the good parts. Ron spent 6 hour on this road and all that broke was his fridge.

He did have the option of spending eight hours on the road and saving the fridge. I'm not comfortable with the idea that anything less than the most expensive will be regretted. Plenty of people do just fine traveling Oz in a Ford Fiesta and a tent.
If I drove that road with a U500 I would be thinking the whole way about using a grading attachment.
Thanks for the link. I'm curious what tire pressure Ron found best for washboarding. I'll shoot him an email.
 

Jolly Roger

Adventurer
Well, I would love an expedition vehicle like one of the GXVs based on the U500. Unfortunately, its out of my price range at the moment.
 

Joe

Observer
Hi,

Lassie aka Jürgen has a MOG, his specs from the Geman quote are:
Rear & front axle ~ 3 tons (metric) each
Tires MPT Conti 81
He had used here in Iceland (and there is really a lot of washboard!!) 2 bar (29 psi).

Hope that information helps.

Ich musste mich bzw unseren Mog an den für uns idealen Luftdruck im Gelände bzw Pisten herantasten. Für unsere Achslast (hi / vo je ca 3,0 to) bzw Radlast von je 1,5 to hab ich 2,0 bar in unseren MPT Conti 81 als ideal empfunden. Die MPT - Reifen sind natürlich für solch einen Einsatz ausgelegt und mit einer jeweiligen max Rad-Traglast von 3,55 to noch lange nicht ausgelastet - also eigentlich der Idealfall.
Generell: die Reifen übernehmen bei langsamen Tempo und niederem Luftdruck einen Teil der Federung, fangen aber zu walken an und werden dadurch potentiell warm. Du hast mit deinem Gewicht und deinen Reifen ganz andere Voraussetzungen als ich mit meinem relativ leichten Unimog und vergleichsweise kräftig dimensionierten Reifen. Dennoch denke ich, dass ein Luftdruck von 3 - 4 bar sinnvoll gewesen wäre. Einzelne Schnitte sind allerdings nicht vermeidbar - ich hab auch ein paar Kratzer in die Flanke bekommen. Da hilft nur vorausschauendes Fahren und Fahrspur 'lesen' - klappt leider nicht immer und nach 80 km Piste wird man müde...
 

Jolly Roger

Adventurer
Difference between U1300L and U1550L

Can anyone tell me the main difference between a U1300L and a U1550L? Is the U1550L just a beefier version of the U1300L or are there significant differences between the two models?

I've seen a U1550L for sale in Europe, details are as follows:

-Long wheelbase 3,7m
-Gearbox UG 3/65
-OM366A engine, turbo, power increased to 230hp
-Hydraulic PTO front
-New tires 405/70R20
-Split gearbox
-Fast axles
-Top speed 120kph
-Very good condition
-Year of production: 1993
-Mileage: 125.000km

Looks like a very nice, clean unit. Cost including shipping to Canada, duties, etc. would be around $57,000 CDN.

Is this a fair price for this model?

Many thanks
 

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
Although I can't help you with specific details, but the price sounds alright. Any pics? Does it have AC? Is it just a chassis?

If possible try and get one with a flat bed! It would be super easy to mount a box on top of it!
 

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