Which size Hi-Lift to buy....does size matter?

[High_Country]

I am going to buy a Hi-Lift jack. But, I can't decide which size to get: 48-inch or 60-inch. I will be using it on travels with both my 2011 Ram 2500 Crew Cab as well as my early bronco. The money isn't an issue - they're close enough to the same price that it's no big deal. I'm just thinking about overall weight and size and wondering if the extra 12-inches of length really adds much to the functionality. I suppose during winching or something you wouldn't have to reset as much with the 60 inch, but how often do you really need to do that OR lift something that high?

I'm just looking for some insight from the guys that have them and have used them. Obviously, the 48 inch would store easier, weigh less, etc. But, if the extra length really is a necessary thing, then I'll get that.

So what do you think? 48 or 60 inch? I have pretty much decided that I'm getting the 'all cast' version....unless someone here REALLY talks me into the extreme.

Thoughts?

 

[orbot]

The longer the better id say... get the red one not sure if the grey is better but dont go with the black one, it bends.

 

[cnynrat]

I've got the 48" red one, and never felt like I needed anything longer. Give some thought to where and how you will carry it before you decide. May be difficult to find a spot for the 60" model.

 

[FishPOET]

I have a 60" Hi-Lift and I have used all 60" one time. I store it on a custom rack on the roof. It would not fit inside like a 48" would.

On your full size truck you might be able to lift the back end 60". Not a chance you could lift the front or the sides 60" before the jack would bow to the point of failure.

 

[bob91yj]

Just out of curiosity what are you using for jacking points on the 2011?

The other thing is you have never used a Hi-Lift, PLEASE practice using it in your driveway or some other controlled environment. Hi-Lifts can be worth their weight in gold...and they can take your head off in a seconds inattention.

Rule #1 is NEVER put your head in the arc of the handle. A HiLift can take off like a cartoon jack when going down if not kept under control. One of the most gruesome injuries I recall was the handle catching a guy in his eye socket. He lived, but with permanent injuries (lost the eye)/rebuilt skull/eye socket.

Rule #2 is the jacking mechanism will stick and bind when you need it the most. Storing the jack out of the weather and keeping the sliding mechanisms lubed will go a long way when you need it most.

 

[High_Country]

Thank you guys very much for the replies and I sincerely appreciate and respect the safety precautions mentioned. I will for sure be practicing at home, watching videos, etc. It sounds like the 48-inch will be enough and this shorter length will give me more mounting options on the smaller bronco.

I don't have squat for jacking points on the Ram...yet. I might try and fab something up that fits in the receiver hitch. Not sure about the front yet.

Thanks again. Any other thoughts welcome of course!

 

[AA1PR]

Personally I would get the longer version.

I too have debated this in the last week

but the thought of me & my cousin getting his jeep stuck & using his 48" one with rocks and other debris under it one day reminds me of a more valid reason

 

[I Leak Oil]

Get the taller one. I have a 48" because of the limited space in my SWB rover. It'll easily lift a tire when on pavement but in the mud, snow, ruts it's left me wanting at times. To me, this says a lot since series rovers aren't known for their articulation.

 

[Cole]

My 60" couldn't lift a wheel off the ground on a my 3" lifted JK on flat ground.:sombrero: Keep in mind that you won't be using it on flat ground and often not on your rig. If you are going to carry one buy the 60".

Personally, I prefer to carry a bottle jack and a winch.:sombrero:

 

[JIMBO]

:sombrero: If you have a jeep/Xterra/Yota--the 48" is all you'll need, trucks, tou can carry what you want, but

Being able to carry the HiLift inside is important --

If you're lifted--truss the axle if you're working on a tire and have a larger HiLift base-

For vehicles without after mkt bumpers---usually the forward/rear frame extends to the bottom of the bumper and you can use those (4) points, without sliders !

The HiLift can ve very dangerous--so study techniques and practice using the handle, which can be a "MISSLE"-

I've had to secure the top of my HiLift (with rope) to trees, to keep from tipping jeep, I luckily had trees !

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO

 

[4x4junkie]

My thought is if your vehicle is stock or only mildly modified, the 48" jack should be fine.
If your vehicle is built up considerably (especially if it has a flexible suspension), then you'll probably want the 60" (I have a 48" one and have had it run out on me a couple times).

 

[High_Country]

Well, maybe I have been swayed. It sounds like if I can verify that cargo space won't be an issue (either on the roof rack, or swing away, or inside) then the 60 is the way to go.

I'll do some checking. Thanks again for all the input.

 

[rb70383]

I have the 48" havent used it to unstick myself yet. So cant say, but an option is to get the tire lift strap to get the tire off the ground then block the axle in order to change the tire. Or like said a bottle jack is another excellent option.

Side note what is a good lube for a hi-lift?

 

[High_Country]

Good point - I could see the wheel lift accessory coming in very handy depending on the predicament and placement of the vehicle. One wouldn't have to get the jack near as 'stretched out' to get the wheel off the ground.

 

[JIMBO]

:sombrero: Use the 48", stored inside and if you have trouble with heighth, just "truss" the axle end you're working on--works ona jeep-

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO