Who has used wood to skin there expedition trailer and floor also?

lacofdfireman

Adventurer
Probably about a week away from starting a 4x6 or 4x7 expedition trailer build with a slide out kitchen and a RTT and trying to decide how I want to skin the trailer and also do the floor. My plan for construction would be to use 2x2 or 2x3 steel for the bottom frame then use 1x1 steel for the sides then maybe cap the tops of the sides supports with 2x2 again and then build a roof on top of that from 1x1 steel. I want the roof to have hinges on the drivers side and open on the passenger side via struts. Also on my roof I would like to make it strong enough for a RTT. Haven't decided on that one yet but looking into them now.

I can't decide if I want to use wood for the floor of my trailer and also the sides and top. Hoping to get some pros and cons of each. Not sure what gauge sheet metal most use to skin there trailers so hoping to find that out also. I think one of my big concerns using sheet metal is basically doing the long cuts. Guess I could just do them the same as I do wood and use a skil saw with a cutting wheel? It seems to me that wood would be a better insulator but maybe I'm wrong. Also for those that do wood how have you attached your wood to the supports so you don't see the hardware? Just countersink? And what hardware do you use to secure the wood to the supports. I think I have most of my trailer figured out how I want to do it besides the skinning part. Can't wait to start building. I've been welding up bumpers for my Jeep Grand Cherokee and soon as those are finished I'll be starting on my trailer. Supposed to get my axle Tuesday and then I will order my spacers for my Jeep wheels and they said they take about 10 days to make. So I should be building within a few weeks. Can't wait...

Any help or info on the best way to skin up a trailer would be appreciated. It's not something you see much of on the builds that people have done...
 

fog cutter

Adventurer
.... wood would be a better insulator ...

would help reducing condensation. finish the sheets including edges before installation and might want to isolate it from direct steel contact to minimize squeaks. through-bolt wherever practical. in addition to mechanical fasteners, VHB tape can be your friend.
 

1store

Banned
This all goes back to what you plan to use the trailer for. Are you haling horse do do, sand, some thing that leaks oil ? Then steel is the way to go. on gauge I find a old truck bed steel floor. By not having the floor flat resets in the steel make it stronger and lighter. On the sides I like good fiberglass again good hand laid . No rust not likely to rot in my life time. If you go that way make it has many bends
 

lacofdfireman

Adventurer
This all goes back to what you plan to use the trailer for. Are you haling horse do do, sand, some thing that leaks oil ? Then steel is the way to go. on gauge I find a old truck bed steel floor. By not having the floor flat resets in the steel make it stronger and lighter. On the sides I like good fiberglass again good hand laid . No rust not likely to rot in my life time. If you go that way make it has many bends


Well fiberglass isn't going to happen for me. I have no idea how to do it.. I'm thinking I will end up doing rolled steel. Probably do the floor in 14 gauge and the sides and top in 16 gauge.
 

1store

Banned
If you go with steel if you can find someone with a bead roller and add a few beads look at the bottom of your ride to see what I talking about . You can round a 3/4 rod and tap them your shelf
 

Terex

Adventurer
Wood is not dimensionally stable. For as cool as it looks, it ends up as being heavy, susceptible to moisture (or, in my case, the lack thereof) and generally a PITA for off-roading.
 

bybeed1

New member
I am using wood for mine... I am using 2x6's for my sides. Obviously still in the building phase, but it has to be ready for the Easter weekend in Moab :)
2v1w6mo.jpg

1jn5lt.jpg

972st4.jpg
 

jscherb

Expedition Leader
I used wood to skin the flip-up camper top of my Jeep-tub trailer. The lid has a fiberglass outer frame and wood ribs, and the skin is 1/4" plywood. This is the lid before the plywood went on:

StrutInstall1_zpsffc2cc27.jpg


In this next photo the plywood is in place. The plywood is white because I used 1/4" pre-painted plywood, found in a home center as underlayment for tile floors.

CoveryAssyDone5_zpsa1a7e383.jpg


I sealed the outside with epoxy primer and the inside with several coats of polyurethane varnish and then I used Olympic Rescue It deck coating on both the wood and fiberglass:

ClamshellRescueIT9_zps5902b8c0.jpg


ClamshellRescueIT12_zpsf39b991c.jpg


I also used plywood for the floor of my fiberglass military replica trailer, here's a shot under construction:

FloorDone1_zps74ec8522.jpg


After sealing the plywood with epoxy primer, I shot both sides (top and bottom) with color-matched Raptor bed liner.

Done-3_zps16928fa1.jpg


In both cases the plywood has held up very well.
 

wagex

Adventurer
my box is made from 2x12x8's and 3/4" plywood hindsight i wish i had used like 1" square tubing and skinned it in aluminum just because of the addons ive done ive had to do some bracing but i still saved a TON of money going this route and its pretty damn strong, all wood glued and kreg jigged 3" heavy duty torx decking screws.
2016-02-28.jpg11146190_10155384080085537_6464463564975177114_n (Medium).jpgkitchen.jpg10377014_10156487159670537_7877217390480428801_n.jpg
 

jwiereng

Active member
This is how you should spell their in the title of your thread.


Example

They're going to play with their friends over there in the park.
 

Sb_Moto

Adventurer
UHMW.. cut it with a skill saw. tough as nails, but fairly expensive.

Might check with a local fab shop to see if they could sheer your steel for you. That would be the easiest way. Or take this as a opportunity to buy a plasma cutter :)
 

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