Why not build with SIPS and other questions

[awwznap]

Hello all. So pumped I found this forum. It's been a joy checking everyones rigs and useful information out. Opting for a more stealthy Mitsubishi FG (hopefully I find one) build over a tiny house. Some questions.

1. Is anybody building their custom campers with aluminum SIPS? Structall has an awesome snap and lock aluminum SIP system. Easy and quick to build. It won't let me paste a link, but googling Structall aluminum SIP will work. They are incredibly light, durable, and provide an excellent R-value and sound isolation for long term living. Do folks not think they can take a beating if taken off road? They seem like the best option over advanced framing or fiberglass. Please advise if I am not thinking something all the way through. I don't plan on doing anything crazy off road. Just enough to feel comfortable that I can make some of the more difficult dirt roads/hills in bad weather etc.

2. Anybody know the water filtration system that EarthCruisers is using?

3. Any good information out there on how to get some of your appliances to run off the diesel?

4. Im opting in on the Fuso model for the MPG and reliability I've seen folks glow about here. However, the cab is only 7' wide, and id like the box to go to the max 8'6" wide the US allows on our highways. I would also like about 6'6" of headroom, but this pushes the box 2'-3' over the cab. How badly will this impact mpg in terms of drag? Those EarthCruisers get 15mpg, but I assume it is because the box is so well streamlined with the cab. Will there be a fuel savings if I use a foot of the length to make it more aerodynamic like this image? I was thinking I could use that foot of space for storage of solar batteries and water filtering system (I am not too worried about accessing the box through the cab...maybe this is something I will pursue, but it seems a little out of my league).

5. Are there any good guides out there on how to make a pop up camper by yourself? I don't think I want any kind of netting or fabric as I want it to be moderately comfortable in colder climates. I worry about attempting this as its just one more thing that can break, but if there is a simple design then I think it'd be worth a shot.

6. Any good guides on a system to get the box off the truck and on the ground? I really like what Tonke has done. Go to YouTube and search Tonke campers unloading system. I do wonder if theres a way to do this without a motor (just another thing that can break). Ive seen issues with how folks have mounted the box directly to the Fuso chassis, and I'm curious about a reliable system where you could remove the box, but also feel comfortable taking the camper onto some moderate off road conditions.

Would really appreciate constructive criticism or additional ideas. Thanks.

 

[Haf-E]

The Structall panels look interesting - but I don't think that their construction system is up to the amount of vibration and stresses an off-road vehicle is subject to. I think it could be a good start - but there are others who make SIP type panels that are adhesively bonded to a structural aluminum framework and provides the necessary rigidity and protects the corners / edges from impacts.

As far as #2 goes - I like to use relatively simple filtration systems - such as Katadyn or Sawyer - these - along with more standard pre-filtering have worked well for me when I have been doing projects in the developing world.

As far as #3 goes - I don't know of any way to adapt an appliance to diesel - but you can buy appliance which work with diesel - Wallas cook stoves for example. There are lots available in the marine market and some smaller "backpacking" stoves such as the ones from MSR that are able to use diesel. I like a portable stove instead of one built in myself - allows cooking outside which is better most the time. If I cook inside I use a small electric induction cooktop and electric tea kettle mostly powered from batteries charged from the engine and solar array.

Don't have much else to add on the rest as I have always been van based - you might consider a 4x4 sprinter though as the space utilization is much better if your need for off-road capability is limited.

 

[1aquaholic]

Just called and talked to the panel builder, he said they have used the panels only on stationary structures and didn't know how it would hold up to vehicle use. Good price though less than 4$ a square foot for 2 inch think painted finished product. 4 foot by up to 16 feet long with a R value of 4 per inch thick.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

 

[awwznap]

Thank you for the replies and the research. Ill bet aluminum framing every 4 feet with aluminum SIPS in between might do the trick...

 

[dlh62c]

Your going to have to joint the top, sides and a bottom together. Are there edge and corner extrusions available to do so?

Have you considered a build based off a Morgan Cargo Body?

There have been a couple of DIY builders that have done so.

 

[awwznap]

I was able to talk with one of the engineers that evaluated their panels. He suggested using additional flat strap bracing against the exterior of the panels once erected, but this was more in regards of wind, not road vibration etc.

What about GRP sandwich panels like honeycomb etc? Are those builds getting additional bracing?

Yea, some local folks have suggested just buying an older box truck and converting it. Im in love with this one eyed unicorn though. It's the perfect truck. It covers pretty much everything I need.

 

[Joe917]

SIPS are usually an OSB and insulation sandwich. Apart from the fact that OSB is completely unsuitable for a vehicle box build, connecting the SIPS with sufficient strength will be almost impossible. Straps and screws will pull out or fail. The only connections robust enough to stand up to the road are welded, bolted or bonded (flexible structural caulking, epoxy, fiberglass).
Welding a frame and using panels between frame members defeats the insulating value of the SIP.
Google GRP panels and you will find many vehicle suppliers that will provide what you need. More pricey than SIPS but stronger, pre-finished both sides and with a lifespan of decades. Some will provide a flat pack option, others a completed box. Refrigerated truck box builders are also worth a look.

 

[awwznap]

Well, why not bond aluminum SIPS? The Structall Snap and Lock system with the bond in between them...

 

[DzlToy]

Please don't take this the wrong way, but all of your questions have been answered 100 times over on this forum. You can spend WEEKS reading through build threads, taking notes on what works and what not to do, why top notch campers are built the way they are and why traditional RV construction does not last a few thousand miles before it starts rattling itself apart.

Composite panels are the answer to your building material question, but snap together panels have no place in anything that moves, IMO. Builders like Mark at Lite Industries, build a top notch product and as you will see from reading his build thread, quality custom work is not cheap, easy or fast.

Unicat charges $50,000 for a lifting roof option over a fix roof for a reason. Many a DIY'er has taken on this task, with mixed, expensive or disastrous results. Hiring a custom builder for a one off RV turned art gallery, won't be easy either, as there are only a handful of companies that build custom boxes and none of them are inexpensive. So, you either get out your checkbook, DIY it or buy something already built.

There are people on this forum who have taken YEARS to complete projects or find the perfect truck for their needs. Some have been going for years and still are incomplete.

Finally, a 15' long box, even on the back of a cabover, is a mighty large vehicle for back country camping. It will be about 22 feet OAL on an FG chassis.

Happy reading, it's all here and then some.

 

[SkiFreak]

Some have been going for years and still are incomplete.

Really, who would that be?
Sigh.....