Whynter FM-62DZ dual zone whynter!

CaliMobber

Adventurer
Last edited:

4x4junkie

Explorer
As 'Mobber said, Whynter = Edgestar.

Some of the hardware on them is a little cheap, such as the plastic carry handles, lid hinges and the DC cord connection that can be broken off relatively easily, however there are easy fixes for all this that are quite well-documented. The actual unit itself is quite solid and is well within the average among fridges for power consumption, making them excellent values if you're open to replacing these items with sturdier stuff you can easily get at Home Depot, etc.
I have 3 friends + myself with Edgestars since 2010 and they've all been great, though none of ours are the dual-zone model (wasn't available when we bought ours).
 

rdracer66

New member
I looked for months for this on amzaon and when finally ready to take the plunge home depot had it cheaper. sure i had to pay taxes but with home depop returns are piece of mind and local. This has done a great job on week long trips. ver the summer recently it started to get warm so Ill probably by the insualtion for it http://www.homedepot.com/p/Whynter-2-cu-ft-62-Qt-Dual-Zone-Portable-Freezer-in-Gray-FM-62DZ/203569129 I took out the front seat for it and took over major trails in the SW Colorado including engineer pass and it did great! I love having feezer/fredge combo. IT works out well for me and what I need to use. Do yourself a favor and for the pirice half the arb get one. plus the ARB does not have a split one like this. Its onl freezer or fridge. I should add that I'm not using a dual battery setup just a seas diehard group 31 marin batter and its held out great.
 

mcskibadee1

Adventurer
I love my 63 quart fridge, its not a dual zone. Purchased last year and have taken it on all my trips and everyone is always sold on it and order one. We had it in the car when we took the snake lake trail and anyone who has done that knows you get beat up. I thought for sure the fridge was going to be toast but kept going without a hiccup.

I think the dual zone is awesome but I always have a tupperware thing of ice for my mixed liquor drinks and it typically lasts like 5 days in the fridge before it melts away. I generally keep it at like 34 degrees so everything is ice cold.

Also, veterans get 10% off at home depot FYI.
 

Big mike

Adventurer
The Whynter is a nice fridge freezer , I had two before I sold and went with ARB 82 for trailer and 50 for jeep.
Honestly I think.... The ARB is better but I can't say .
They both work great and I got caught up in the " I need an upgrade mode "
Just me being me I guess.
Mike
 

snowblind

Adventurer
dang I had no idea edgestar/whynter made a dual zone fridge for so cheap. My current edgestar been lasting me over 4 years and this just seems like a super cool upgrade considering that a name brand version would cost another $1000 on top of that price.

http://www.amazon.com/Whynter-FM-62...dp_s_cp_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1VK91STRBG7NZTG0BFZP

I've had that exact fridge for a little over a year.

I LOVE the dual zone and would not go back to single. Small zone can hold 36 cans. Large side can take tall items like milk cartons and has the smaller "step-up" area. Each side has individual temp control.

The LED lights are nice. Handles are plastic and feel flimsy. I do not feel comfortable lifting it with the handles while full.

I also got the insulated cover/bag. It is pretty thin and not great quality but it works very well in the back of my Suburban.

Power consumption is a little on the high side but not obscene. My Goal Zero Yeti 400 can power it overnight without trouble.



Matt
 

hour

Observer
After fixing up my new/first garage in my new/first home, I realized that I'd benefit from a mini fridge out there or something for beer purposes when wrenching.

This product just solved a couple of issues. Got the 62qt one in first post for $570 before tax - home depot has an additional 10% off now (not sure what it was when the thread was posted). The temptation to save $140 and get the $430 single zone 45qt was great, but it was out of stock online and I'm sure I'll appreciate having a dedicated freezer compartment. For the 300 days a year that I'm not out, I'll just run it on AC filled with brews in the garage. Otherwise, it'll be fed by a 130ah deep cycle 'house' battery and 100w Renogy panel. Excited for my next trip, no last minute stop to cover all of our groceries with ice.
 

hour

Observer
Received mine on Thursday, 9/3 and took it out the following day for three days. It's actually still in the back of my truck running with residual camp beer.

Did the job, but the handles and latches are rather disappointing (I know, mods thread). Also very unforgiving on the outer shell. Fridge was anchored well but a full Kleen Kanteen rolled in to it and produced a nice dent.

I guess the battery I'm powering it off of is bad though, if the battery shows 12.8, the fridge will show 12.7. OK, fine. When compressor kicks on, battery measured at the solar charge controller will show 12.5 (which I believe to be acceptable) but the fridge will show 11.2-3-4. It was cutting itself off set at the default 11.7v low voltage protection setting. I had to keep that on 10.8 to run it this weekend despite everything looking good at the battery. Yet to compare with multimeter but I find it hard to believe that I have much of any voltage drop from 10g wire -> blue sea female cig lighter -> Whynter power cord, everything soldered pretty.
 

Bbasso

Expedition Leader
Opps, that was a typo. I ment 62 DZ.

Ouch, that is some draw... i was hoping to hear much lower.
 

CaliMobber

Adventurer
Hour are you running it off the stock 12v plug in back? I had the same problem with my 42qt edgestar and fridge would shut down when batt volts were 11.8. I just ran a 6gauge wire to the back for all my accessories and that fixed it. Now it never shuts off early.

Also not sure what cord the whyner came with but I replaced the stock cable with 10ft longer one from amazon and installed a locking 12v socket so it never comes out from offroading. Also this cable has a 90deg turn soo as it comes out of the fridge so you can push boxed up into the fridge with out worry of breaking the cable(It does not show the 90 turn in the amazon picture but its like the arb cable.

http://www.amazon.com/Whynter-10-Fo...348&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=whynter+power+cable
 

snowblind

Adventurer
I guess the battery I'm powering it off of is bad though, if the battery shows 12.8, the fridge will show 12.7. OK, fine. When compressor kicks on, battery measured at the solar charge controller will show 12.5 (which I believe to be acceptable) but the fridge will show 11.2-3-4. It was cutting itself off set at the default 11.7v low voltage protection setting. I had to keep that on 10.8 to run it this weekend despite everything looking good at the battery. Yet to compare with multimeter but I find it hard to believe that I have much of any voltage drop from 10g wire -> blue sea female cig lighter -> Whynter power cord, everything soldered pretty.

I run a DZ62 on a Goal Zero Yeti 400 power pack and/or an Optima Red Top. You can minimize the loss at the wires but there will still be a hefty drop at the controller. It just seems to be the nature of this controller. Seeing similar volts as you on the Optima and that's using 8AWG audio amplifier wire. On the Yeti 400 with a 24" cord the voltage drops below 10V while the battery pack is still at 20% and capable/willing to provide power. I just set the fridge to the 10.0V cutoff and try not to run whatever I'm using below 11V on fridge display when resting.

Is it possible that the voltage sensor is measuring on the back side of the fridge compressor as it goes to ground?


Matt
 

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