XPS Sandwich Panels availability in the US

Louisd75

Adventurer
@rruff

I was doing a little light reading of "Sandwich Structural Composites: Theory and Practice" (ISBN 978-0367441722, can't link directly to the Amazon page). They do a good breakdown of the common core materials early on in the text. Regarding PVC, "PVC foam contains carbon dioxide gas under pressure, so outgassing can occur at elevated temperatures over time -- that is, the gas diffuses from the closed cells and migrates to voids or unbounded areas in the laminate. In some instances, outgassing has been blamed for delamination and blistering in the sandwich construction, especially in parts made at elevated cure temperatures or finished in dark colors and in direct exposure to the sun." It only mentions that as an issue for PVC cores so far, I haven't read up on XPS yet but I'm kind of jumping around the book. Light colors *may* be enough to avoid the issue.

That said, Total Composites and Fiber-Tech also discuss the temperature issue in related to dark panel colors. TC only does one core material and white panels (though at least *some* of their rigs have black decals applied to the panels). Fiber-Tech's warranty fine print states "This warranty is void upon application of dark colors to the panel" but doesn't differentiate between the different core materials, it's a blanket warranty statement. These two cases make me wonder if it's potentially an epoxy/resin/adhesive issue as well, but I'm not that far into the book :unsure:

Personally, I've been going back and forth for a while now for building vs buying my panels. I'm still a little ways off from needing to move on the choice, but I read through the build threads and one thing that sticks out is the amount of time and labor involved. I'm all for saving some coin, but my time off is precious enough that farming the work out to someone who does it for a living may be better for myself and my project.

On the topic of the book, it's definitely interesting though it's also a bit technical and dry. I'm pretty sure it's meant to be a text book for a college level engineering course. One of the takeaways that I'm finding is that you can ballpark core and skin properties to come up with general statements, but there are so many variables that you really need to test each formulation, perhaps to the point of each batch, to know the actual panel properties.
 

windblown

New member
Answering rruff's earlier question on the $9300 quote, just rectangular box. I have a cabover Toyota where the cab pivots up so no extended sleeping partition. I didnt ask them to quote other materials, I am trying to decide what was to go for my camper so just wanted a reference. That material was 2" thick btw.
 

rruff

Explorer
It only mentions that as an issue for PVC cores so far, I haven't read up on XPS yet but I'm kind of jumping around the book. Light colors *may* be enough to avoid the issue.

Interesting. Diab recommends a max skin temp of 185F for PVC core panels. It would be possible to exceed that with a dark colored roof panel in hot, calm, direct sun. My roof is white and the rest is grey. I do have a big hatch/door painted grey that may get very hot in ideal conditions when open.

There was an old thread on here from a guy who built a popup using XPS core and hand laid FG. I don't remember his name. As I recall he got delamination the first time he brought it outside. The roof was not a very dark grey and it wasn't very hot or even sunny. Felt really bad for him. That prompted me to read up on the issue, and I found many references to this in surfboard forums, when XPS core was used. Some of them would even perforate the FG with tiny holes to prevent any gas buildup. Here is one page: https://www.swaylocks.com/groups/question-about-epoxyxtr-construction

It makes sense for pretty much any closed cell foam. Air/gas is trapped in the cells, and if the foam heats up the pressure will increase. Since nothing is completely air tight, the air will slowly leak out of the cells if they are under pressure, and if there are gaps in the bond that pressure may be enough to push the skins off in those areas. But if there is an air gap in the bond you already have a small delamination, yes? If the air pressure in that spot is enough to overpower the bond or strength of the foam surrounding it, then it will grow regardless.

I live at 7,000 ft so there is a pretty high pressure differential already between the cell pressure and atmospheric. I recall getting a sample of PP hex core and immediately realized I couldn't use it, since there was a little bubble over every cell! Actually that might have been fine with hand layup, but the surface would have had a uniform bumpiness. Which makes me wonder... going from ~0 to 10,000 ft (and I do plan to camp over that range) will create a larger pressure differential than increasing the temperature ~120F. That elevation change alone is ~4.5 psi, while a temperature change from 65F to 185F is ~3.5 psi. Add them up and you looking at 8 psi! It usually isn't very hot at 10,000 ft, but I suspect the solar intensity will make up for it if it's very calm.

I found this page regarding PVC foam, which appears to be copied from the book you quoted in part, with this bit added: "But core experts contend the problem is caused primarily by improper laminating technique and poor skin-to-core bond."

I tend to agree. A good continuous bond is essential in the structural integrity of any sandwich panel regardless. If the bond is good, 8 psi is nothing for PVC foam, but it's getting significant for 15-25 psi rated XPS. And if you add in the effect of temperature and some stress on the foam...
 

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
Interesting. Diab recommends a max skin temp of 185F for PVC core panels. It would be possible to exceed that with a dark colored roof panel in hot, calm, direct sun. My roof is white and the rest is grey. I do have a big hatch/door painted grey that may get very hot in ideal conditions when open.

There was an old thread on here from a guy who built a popup using XPS core and hand laid FG. I don't remember his name. As I recall he got delamination the first time he brought it outside. The roof was not a very dark grey and it wasn't very hot or even sunny. Felt really bad for him. That prompted me to read up on the issue, and I found many references to this in surfboard forums, when XPS core was used. Some of them would even perforate the FG with tiny holes to prevent any gas buildup. Here is one page: https://www.swaylocks.com/groups/question-about-epoxyxtr-construction

It makes sense for pretty much any closed cell foam. Air/gas is trapped in the cells, and if the foam heats up the pressure will increase. Since nothing is completely air tight, the air will slowly leak out of the cells if they are under pressure, and if there are gaps in the bond that pressure may be enough to push the skins off in those areas. But if there is an air gap in the bond you already have a small delamination, yes? If the air pressure in that spot is enough to overpower the bond or strength of the foam surrounding it, then it will grow regardless.

I live at 7,000 ft so there is a pretty high pressure differential already between the cell pressure and atmospheric. I recall getting a sample of PP hex core and immediately realized I couldn't use it, since there was a little bubble over every cell! Actually that might have been fine with hand layup, but the surface would have had a uniform bumpiness. Which makes me wonder... going from ~0 to 10,000 ft (and I do plan to camp over that range) will create a larger pressure differential than increasing the temperature ~120F. That elevation change alone is ~4.5 psi, while a temperature change from 65F to 185F is ~3.5 psi. Add them up and you looking at 8 psi! It usually isn't very hot at 10,000 ft, but I suspect the solar intensity will make up for it if it's very calm.

I found this page regarding PVC foam, which appears to be copied from the book you quoted in part, with this bit added: "But core experts contend the problem is caused primarily by improper laminating technique and poor skin-to-core bond."

I tend to agree. A good continuous bond is essential in the structural integrity of any sandwich panel regardless. If the bond is good, 8 psi is nothing for PVC foam, but it's getting significant for 15-25 psi rated XPS. And if you add in the effect of temperature and some stress on the foam...

The surface temperature doubles with a light grey colour vs pure white. Weak point in ANY composite panel is most likely the adhesive bonding the layers together. Certain epoxies are also getting soft with temperature. Therefore bonding your own panels with off he shelf epoxy is not always the best solution. Read up on the data sheets wasting your money.
 

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ReluctantTraveler

Well-known member

simple

Adventurer

simple

Adventurer
I did a thread search and google search and the only real info I saw was RAM5500 couldn't get ahold of them. I would have thought someone would try them out. There are also no pictures of any cool DIY builds on their site. Maybe they never made an effort to sell any and maybe the amount of people that want to actually build a DIY composite panel camper box are slim to none.

There was also some discussion about AT windows not fitting their wall thickness. Would that be enough to be a non starter?
 
EPS and Polyurethane CAN work, as long as the box is properly reinforced, so the load is taken off the core material of the sandwich. If you REALLY want a structural sandwich panel, you will need to use something like Gurit or Divinycell and a carbon, fiberglasss or Aramid skin, impregnated with epoxy or vinylester resin.

I built a 12' x 7' x 7' box with a friend using thin phenolic sheeting, 2" EPS, wood nailing/screwing blocks and 16 gauge steel angle iron as a perimeter frame. That box was RIGIDLY mounted to an LMTV and the truck was driven from Alaska to Baja without any issues.

Four point mounting systems, vacuum infusion and $50,000 of Nomex honeycomb are not required. You can build a box or a trailer with Vetroresina or G9, angle iron, industrial spray glue and XPS sheeting from the DIY store. Overlap foam and sheeting to make larger panels, using 4x8 or 2x8 sheets.

DO NOT use polyisocyanurate foam unless you have an external and/or internal support structure. The foam is a crumbly mess.

Commercial refrigeration panels are also an option and are often constructed using stainless or aluminum. Exterior and interior can be sprayed with aliphatic polyurea to seal everything up.
You mind if I pick your brain on your box build? Your use case is exactly what a buddy and I want to do. Even on an LMTV. Albeit, we want a bit bigger box.
 

samjett

New member
So I haven't been able to find these panels anywhere in the United States. Been looking for 2 inch thick XPS foam with UV-resistant FRP on the outside.
I have received a few quotes on Alibaba, one from Topolo: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/TOPOLO-lightweight-frp-sheet-and-xps_1600797538380.html, and am considering ordering their minimum order for my personal project (building a truck camper). Given that their minimum order is 50 square meters, and I anticipate to need about 20 square meters, I was wondering if anyone wants to go in on a purchase together with me? The ballpark figure I have is about $2200 for 50 square meters of the panels. I live near Long Beach area and was going to pick up the panels in my truck from the port. I can store for a brief period of time but if anyone is in this area and wants to split this order with me or buy panels off me, please DM or post on this thread. Cheers.
 

DzlToy

Explorer
Buy XPS, CoreCell, Diab or Last-a-Foam in sheets.

Buy Vetroresina or FRP in sheets/rolls.

Buy lots of contact cement, industrial adhesive or resin.

Mix together in a bowl and out comes a simple, cheap, lightweight sandwich panel.

 
Buy XPS, CoreCell, Diab or Last-a-Foam in sheets.

Buy Vetroresina or FRP in sheets/rolls.

Buy lots of contact cement, industrial adhesive or resin.

Mix together in a bowl and out comes a simple, cheap, lightweight sandwich panel.


That’s what I’m going to do. Embed some aluminum square tube for studs where needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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