[YEAR 7!] Quit our jobs, sold our home, gone riding...
- Thread starter lightcycle
- Start date
lightcycle
Nomad
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/217.html
It's with a mix of curiousity and dread that we're heading into Marrakesh with.
We've heard so much of this mysterious and mystical city through books and songs, as well as from other travelers and we're eager to see what all the fuss is about. But having endured the touts of Morocco's other large cities, we were also expecting the worst in the country's largest tourist capital.
The Gene amongst tajine pots
But first, we have to cross the Atlas mountains again. We made the crossing last in the east, near the desert, and it was through the range called the Middle Atlas. This time, we're going up and over the High Atlas mountain range towards the Marrakech Plains.
You can see the snow-capped Atlas Mountains in the distance
Mountains are getting closer as we climb higher
The twisty road that we're on is called the Tizi n'Tichka. Tizi means "pass" in Berber
It's with a mix of curiousity and dread that we're heading into Marrakesh with.
We've heard so much of this mysterious and mystical city through books and songs, as well as from other travelers and we're eager to see what all the fuss is about. But having endured the touts of Morocco's other large cities, we were also expecting the worst in the country's largest tourist capital.
The Gene amongst tajine pots
But first, we have to cross the Atlas mountains again. We made the crossing last in the east, near the desert, and it was through the range called the Middle Atlas. This time, we're going up and over the High Atlas mountain range towards the Marrakech Plains.
You can see the snow-capped Atlas Mountains in the distance
Mountains are getting closer as we climb higher
The twisty road that we're on is called the Tizi n'Tichka. Tizi means "pass" in Berber
lightcycle
Nomad
The temperature drops to below freezing (-1C!) and the visibility gets worse as we ride up into the clouds. We're over 2200m above sea-level at the top of the pass and the moisture from the clouds and the freezing temperatures force us to pull over and put on our rainsuits.
Brrr!
Just like in the Middle Atlas Mountains, we find all the dogs that were exiled out of the cities by the cats
Neda feels sorry for them and rummages through her pantry (top case) to find some food for them. She generously gives up her last few scoops of peanut butter to these sorry canines, but they don't seem to know what to make of it. Even after suspiciously sniffing the open jar, they don't go for it. Neda has to spoon some out with a twig before one of the braver dogs approaches for a taste-test. Dumb dogs. No wonder the cats managed to kick you out of the cities!
Aren't dogs supposed to *love* peanut butter?
This guy knew what was good and made off with the jar!
With our rainsuits on and one jar of peanut butter lighter, we made our way back down the pass.
Brrr!
Just like in the Middle Atlas Mountains, we find all the dogs that were exiled out of the cities by the cats
Neda feels sorry for them and rummages through her pantry (top case) to find some food for them. She generously gives up her last few scoops of peanut butter to these sorry canines, but they don't seem to know what to make of it. Even after suspiciously sniffing the open jar, they don't go for it. Neda has to spoon some out with a twig before one of the braver dogs approaches for a taste-test. Dumb dogs. No wonder the cats managed to kick you out of the cities!
Aren't dogs supposed to *love* peanut butter?
This guy knew what was good and made off with the jar!
With our rainsuits on and one jar of peanut butter lighter, we made our way back down the pass.
lightcycle
Nomad
Back down the switchbacks of Tizi n'Tichka
Back down in the Plains of Marrakesh, the weather gets sunnier again. Still not that warm though...
Our ride into Marrakesh was unremarkable. Our original intention was to try to find a place outside of the medinas and then ride in one day to visit the souks, thus avoiding the hustlers. But we found that all the accommodations were so expensive. It really was cheaper to stay in the old city, I think because the hotels in the modern areas of the city were frequented by people on business with bigger budgets and corporate expense accounts. So it was back to the medinas with the rest of the backpackers and vacationers.
Like before, we had to park outside the walls of the old city and I dove in on foot while Neda watched the bikes. I made a mistake not getting the exact GPS co-ordinates of our riad in Marrakesh before arriving. All I had was a Google Map location which maybe gets you in the right time zone when it comes to navigating in the medinas of Morocco... Lost in the labyrinths of Marrakesh, I couldn't find the place where we were staying and against my inclinations, I had to enlist the help of one of the touts waiting for business. But not before negotiating a price.
After some walking around, it seemed my young guide did not know where the riad was, but he flagged down another guy on a motorcycle who seemed to know and the guy on the bike motioned for me to get on the back seat. The riad should have been close by and I didn't want to pay extra for a ride, so I declined and followed his bike on foot. Our guesthouse was only a few hundred meters away and at the door of the riad, I settled up with the first guy who I asked for directions.
He immediately took off, leaving the motorcycle guide looking at me expectantly. Thus I was introduced to a new hustle in Marrakesh - I call it the "Everyone Gets Paid". Basically whoever you make a deal with enlists as many people he can get to help you out, then you are expected to pay everyone involved. *nuh-uh* I shook my head. "Go chase after your friend and get your money, I didn't make a deal with you".
He looked pissed, probably a mixture of play-acting and annoyance that the "Everyone Gets Paid" hustle didn't work. Too bad, so sad.
Once more, into the fray we go. Into the medinas of Morocco
lightcycle
Nomad
We were both in a very bad mood in Marrakesh. The hustlers were wearing us down and we didn't feel like leaving the riad. Why did we even bother coming to the city then? It took great effort of will to don our armour and go exploring once again.
Grounds of the El Badi Palace
One of the first attractions just outside our riad was the El Badi Palace. Built in the late 1500s, it was built to celebrate (gloat) over the Moroccan's victory against the war with the Portuguese.
Good luck storks atop one of the towers in the palace
Stork in flight, baby already delivered
Proof that I was there
Reflections in the pools at El Badi Palace
Grounds of the El Badi Palace
One of the first attractions just outside our riad was the El Badi Palace. Built in the late 1500s, it was built to celebrate (gloat) over the Moroccan's victory against the war with the Portuguese.
Good luck storks atop one of the towers in the palace
Stork in flight, baby already delivered
Proof that I was there
Reflections in the pools at El Badi Palace
lightcycle
Nomad
Copper lamps in a Marrakesh souk
Talk to the Khamsa
The Khamsa means "Five" in Arabic and in this instance refers to an open palm symbol that is often used in artwork and jewelry as a sign of protection and to ward off the evil eye.
More peering into mosques that we were forbidden to enter. Such intricate designs inside!
Snake charmer in the souk
Djemaa-El-Fna is the largest souk in Marrakech, located in the main square of the old city. Snake charmers are known to frequent this area and we really wanted to see snakes being charmed. Before taking pictures, I asked the guy above playing the flute how much and his buddy beside him answered 10 dirham. Okay, deal.
The snake glistened menacingly like it was made of shiny, moving metal
lightcycle
Nomad
The guy playing the flute motioned for me to come closer, he kept kicking at the snake to maneuver it into a position so I could get a better shot. I think either the snake was not poisonous or it was defanged, he didn't seem at all concerned about his (or my) safety. Thankfully I have a zoom lens...
I don't think the flute player was doing anything special. The snake didn't seemed very hypnotized or charmed or anything.
This was as close to the snake as I dared go
After I was done taking pictures, the flute-player's buddy took my 10 dirham and promptly got up and walked away, disappearing into the crowd. Oh no. Is this "Everyone Gets Paid" all over again? I looked at the flute player waiting with his outstretched hand. Yep.
I shook my head, turned around vowed never to engage with street vendors and hustlers again as he called out to me for his money. "Everyone Gets Paid" only works if tourists start falling for it and I wasn't going to contribute to this behaviour. I had no doubt in my mind that he would get his 10 dirham once his buddy came back.
We went to a fancy restaurant which was supposed to serve good tajine. Not impressed. Too many raisins.
Waiting for business
Looking out the window is a favorite past-time all over the world
Men in traditional Berber hats walking around the souk
So in the end there was nothing mystical or mysterious about Marrakesh. Nothing that we hadn't seen in any of the other medinas of Morocco. It just confirmed that we are so done with medinas and souks.
I don't think the flute player was doing anything special. The snake didn't seemed very hypnotized or charmed or anything.
This was as close to the snake as I dared go
After I was done taking pictures, the flute-player's buddy took my 10 dirham and promptly got up and walked away, disappearing into the crowd. Oh no. Is this "Everyone Gets Paid" all over again? I looked at the flute player waiting with his outstretched hand. Yep.
I shook my head, turned around vowed never to engage with street vendors and hustlers again as he called out to me for his money. "Everyone Gets Paid" only works if tourists start falling for it and I wasn't going to contribute to this behaviour. I had no doubt in my mind that he would get his 10 dirham once his buddy came back.
We went to a fancy restaurant which was supposed to serve good tajine. Not impressed. Too many raisins.
Waiting for business
Looking out the window is a favorite past-time all over the world
Men in traditional Berber hats walking around the souk
So in the end there was nothing mystical or mysterious about Marrakesh. Nothing that we hadn't seen in any of the other medinas of Morocco. It just confirmed that we are so done with medinas and souks.
lightcycle
Nomad
Glad to have you along with us! 
ErWinB
New member
lightcycle
Nomad
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/218.html
Good riddance, Marrakech!
It's been freezing during our whole time in Morocco. When we left Europe, we looked forward to baking in the scorching African desert sun. That so didn't happen... we've been bundled up in all of our layers for the last three weeks! During our stay in Boulmane, we chatted with a tour guide who said that the warmest part of Morocco this time of year would be Agadir, on the western coast. So that's where we're going!
So back over the High Atlas Mountains once again in search of warm weather.
Sharing the road with vehicles of varying horsepower
Our search for the perfect tajine continues in a small village along the way
We are heading south-west on the R203, which goes up and over the High Atlas Mountains. After lunch, the road takes us through the N'fis valley, where we are given a good idea as to what the roads are going to look like. As well as a great view too!
Nice!
Neda bundled up against the cold
Good riddance, Marrakech!
It's been freezing during our whole time in Morocco. When we left Europe, we looked forward to baking in the scorching African desert sun. That so didn't happen... we've been bundled up in all of our layers for the last three weeks! During our stay in Boulmane, we chatted with a tour guide who said that the warmest part of Morocco this time of year would be Agadir, on the western coast. So that's where we're going!
So back over the High Atlas Mountains once again in search of warm weather.
Sharing the road with vehicles of varying horsepower
Our search for the perfect tajine continues in a small village along the way
We are heading south-west on the R203, which goes up and over the High Atlas Mountains. After lunch, the road takes us through the N'fis valley, where we are given a good idea as to what the roads are going to look like. As well as a great view too!
Nice!
Neda bundled up against the cold
lightcycle
Nomad
Twisty roads always put smiles on our faces!
Plenty of picturesque villages line the road heading over the High Atlas Mountains
Palm trees to cacti
Road starting to climb the mountains
The R203 is called the Tizi n'Test once it starts to climb up over the High Atlas to over 2000m. The entertaining part is when it steeply descends, offering us plenty of switchbacks and twists and turns, however it's hard to concentrate with the scenery just off to the side and below.
The Tizi n'Test winds back and forth over the High Atlas, offering us marvelous views down below
lightcycle
Nomad
Neda ducking below some rocky overhangs
Another roadside stop to admire the view of the valley below
As we descended from the High Atlas mountains towards the coast, the weather got very, very warm - in the mid-20s. At our next gas stop, we peeled off all of our layers, this was the first time in a long time that I was able to wear just a T-shirt under my mesh jacket. Felt so good!
Surprise roadside gifts!
Just outside of Agadir, we noticed we were being paced by a car, which is not that unusual for us since we were quite an oddity rolling around on Moroccan roads on our huge behemoths. At a stoplight, the passenger rolled down his window to talk to us. He spoke English, but not any kind of English - Canadian English! Haha!
We pulled over to chat. Yassine is from Mississauga (just outside of Toronto) and he was visiting family in Morocco. He told us he was so surprised to see Ontario plates on our bikes! He imports Moroccan oranges to Canada so he gave us a sample of his goods.
Nice guy! And it was awesome getting a chance to speak Canadian again, eh?!
Hanging out at our hostel after breakfast in Agadir
Agadir is a beach-side resort town, luxury hotels line the coast
There was a huge earthquake in 1960 which completely destroyed Agadir, so the city was rebuilt from the ground up a few kms away. A lot of famous architects were hired to help in the rebuild and the result is a very modern place, quite unlike any Moroccan city because it contains no remnants of the old country.
lightcycle
Nomad
The warm weather year-round makes it very popular place to spend a vacation
Modesty on the sands
Morocco is considered a moderate Muslim country. They have more relaxed attitudes towards women's dress and behaviour here than in other strict countries. It was interesting seeing full burqas on the beach mingled with the bikinis of the tourists.
Still, outside the beaches some tourists do push the limits of tolerance. In Marrakesh a few days ago, we saw a trio of British girls walking the souks in sandals and skirts cut above the knee. They were totally oblivious to the shocked and disapproving looks of everyone!
Moroccan flags flapping in winds from the shore
We spent quite a bit of time just soaking up the warm weather on the beach, it was very therapeutic after such a long spell of cold weather. I was a bit disappointed that we had already booked our accommodations in the next town. I had no idea Agadir would be this pleasant, we would totally have stayed at least a couple of days more!
Stopped for lunch at a small town just outside of Agadir
Amazing seafood here!