Opinion on which direction to take on my build.

[Ryanc]

I need ya'lls opinion. You cant see it in the pic, but Im running a full width bumper in the rear(LOD) as well. I love the armored look and the protection in brings. I dont mind at all scraping the bumpers up, I kind of use them as feelers/skids. What I dont like is the weight. I have considered ditching the front and rear bumper and put a front stubby up front and just bolt in shackles on the frame rails in the rear. This would save me close to 200lbs. Im also considering revoing the rear seat for trips(100lbs). The axles are stout, Im running RCVs up front, and with the 4:1 tranny and 5.13 gear I spend more time with my foot on the brake and not the gas so Im not too worried about weight induced breakage. Im just looking for opinions.

 

[BigAl]

I like the looks of the stubby bumpers better. I always hear the argument about full width providing more protection but I have not run into damage issues on my own jeep and I run ATV width trails all the time. Also agree with removing the rear seat if not needed

 

[Carolyn]

IMO, that depends on your jeep's use... do you travel, camping, remote areas - where hitting something (like an animal in open range country) with a full bumper would most likely not end your travels.... or hitting same with a stubby or 2/3rds' could? Or are you typically within range of help if you damage your vehicle?
Personal use is always the driving factor for mods to your jeep... :ylsmoke:

 

[Bigjerm]

I have a stubby front and rear bumper and never looked back. This is on a LJ though with Metalcloak fenders so I don't have the huge plastic flares sticking out. Having a shorter bumper could give better approach angles and the same with the rear and departure angles. I am always a fan of having a rear bumper of some kind. I keep my 35" spare inside the LJ on a home built/ghetto rigged platform. For me it works because I have no kids and no need for a backseat and I travel light.

 

[Ryanc]

I have a stubby front and rear bumper and never looked back. This is on a LJ though with Metalcloak fenders so I don't have the huge plastic flares sticking out. Having a shorter bumper could give better approach angles and the same with the rear and departure angles. I am always a fan of having a rear bumper of some kind. I keep my 35" spare inside the LJ on a home built/ghetto rigged platform. For me it works because I have no kids and no need for a backseat and I travel light.

This pic was taken at morris mountain. I did not have any problems running all the trails. I just came back from Mountainside two weekends ago and ran all the trails their as well. Maybe Im just lucky, but I havent run into issues with approproach and departure angles. Maybe a little rubbing, but no big deal. Maybe Ill trim a little of the front bumper with a plasma, Ditch the hi lift, and the rear seat, go 37s, and call it a day.

 

[Bigjerm]

I support that decision! We have diff setups for sure. I only have 2" of lift and 35's so I do hit my front bumper from time to time. Bent the stock bumper pretty good and just cut the sides off of it.

 

[Rovertrader]

Interesting question for sure. I am all for the protection of the steel bumpers, and have them on all my trucks- except the JK. I have even hit a deer chest to chest at 50mph on a motorcycle, so am intimately aware of the down side of lack of protection. I have elected to keep weight down on the JK and went with factory stubby kit. Here is mine so far:



And be sure to incorporate the plastic 'chin' as it adds considerably to fuel mileage...

 

[jeep-N-montero]

If you want to test your approach and departure angles come out to Moab.

 

[Repo503]

I

If you want to test your approach and departure angles come out to Moab.

Why if it works for him where he travels? I understand keeping weight down but Im not sure the minimal savings would be worth losing that extra bit of protection.

 

[Repo503]

Off topic but rovertrader Im loving your JK...can I ask where you got the hood blackout? Is it the factory one from the mountain and artic edition?

 

[Rovertrader]

It is a Mojave and part of the package, but thanks for the kind words. I was going to delete the sidesteps, but kinda growing on me, and with 37s shouldn't be a huge concern...

 

[Hill Bill E.]

I run both, stubby on my CJ (only the width of the frame rails) and an ARB Bull Bumper on my TJ

Both rigs have full width rear bumpers with tire carrier/swing outs.

I also had a full width front on my XJ.

The stubby is great for harder wheeling, if you have heavy fenders, or don't mind if they get damaged.

A stubby allows you to approach a ledge from an angle, and get one front tire climbing up.

It can allow you to climb a ledge that a full width bumper would hang up on/not allow you to get the tire on it.

How often will that happen? Depends on where you go, and how hard you wheel.

Will it stop you from going places/enjoying yourself? Heck no! Most hard trails where you would run into that, either have a bypass, or are a buggy type trail.

I like the protection of a full width, and will deal with the extra weight.

I use my rigs for everything, from wheeling Moab, to cruising back roads, and doing 'back country excursions' of 2-3 weeks, trying to run as little black top as possible.

For now I'm keeping the ARB on my TJ. If I build/buy a set of tube fenders, or ones like Poison Spyders 'tubeless' style, then I will go to a stubby front.

But for now, I like the protection it provides for the fenders.

 

[Bigjerm]

It is a Mojave and part of the package, but thanks for the kind words. I was going to delete the sidesteps, but kinda growing on me, and with 37s shouldn't be a huge concern...

Do you have the stock D44's? I have read a few reports of bent stock Rubi axles with 37's. Most upgrade the rear to a D60, sleeve and sometimes gusset, and new shafts on the front axle.

 

[Ryanc]

The rear axle is pretty stout. If anything is going to happen you going to either 1. break a shaft which will really bring the suck 2. or blow up the r and p. But rear breakage is not that common unless your a little to throttle heavy. Now the front is a different story. Cs bending and bending of axle tubes are quite common. I gussetted my Cs, sleeved by tubes, and put in RCV shafts. I also put in dynatrac prosteer balljoints. If anything is going to break the ring and or pinion will break. Sounds like a daunting fix, but when you look and the cost maybe like 200 bucks Id rather break that. Axles shafts are 5 times as much.

 

[JPK]

Do you have the stock D44's? I have read a few reports of bent stock Rubi axles with 37's. Most upgrade the rear to a D60, sleeve and sometimes gusset, and new shafts on the front axle.

I run 37's on the oem D44's and have had no issues. I've kinda been expecting to bend the front tube, especially since my JKU weighs a lot, but haven't managed it yet. I rock crawl ten or twelve days a year, spend a fair amount of time on crappy gravel and two tracks. On rocks I am light on the throttle.

If I ever do bend the tube I'll go Dynatrac.

Dave Harriton of AEV pointed out in a discussion on AEV's forum that he had searched and never found a first hand account of a bent C. He's looking for first hand accounts, so if you have one or can refer me to a link, I'll pass it on.

I know sleeving will bring strength, and it's not that expensive, but a sleeved tube weighs more than a stronger, slightly higher clearence Dynatrac housing, and Dynatrac offers the option of additional caster angle/reduced pinion angle.

JPK