Fridge power?

[TexasTJ]

Im looking to add a Hella socket for my ARB fridge. I'm getting stuff together right now for add it, but wanted to see if y'all thought I could use something like the Quadratec 12 Volt Power adapter. It plugs into the aux power socket so it would always be hot. Im just not sure if the stock wiring can move enough power to keep the fridge running.

Thanks

Nate

 

[BIGdaddy]

I wired in a 20amp circuit to the rear of my cargo area straight from my battery, and then put a 12v adapter outlet from west marine. I used heavy wire and crimp connections. Works just fine.

The 12v car adapter type plug was about $10-20.00 I think. I'm thinking about taking the power straight to a Blue sea fuse block, to run both a fridge, and my compressor in the back, as well as having an easy fused power source for other goodies back there.

 

[1911]

You'll get a lot less voltage drop if you use 10 AWG wire straight to a battery.

 

[dstock]

I wired in a 20amp circuit to the rear of my cargo area straight from my battery, and then put a 12v adapter outlet from west marine. I used heavy wire and crimp connections. Works just fine.

The 12v car adapter type plug was about $10-20.00 I think. I'm thinking about taking the power straight to a Blue sea fuse block, to run both a fridge, and my compressor in the back, as well as having an easy fused power source for other goodies back there.

You may want to double check the fuse for your compressor, the blue sea fuse block tops out at 30 amps I believe, not enough for my ARB compressor.

 

[BIGdaddy]

You may want to double check the fuse for your compressor, the blue sea fuse block tops out at 30 amps I believe, not enough for my ARB compressor.

I have a MV50 compressor that works fine on a 30amp circuit currently.

 

[dstock]

I have a MV50 compressor that works fine on a 30amp circuit currently.

Cool, my ARB requires a 45 amp fuse.

 

[JPK]

Im looking to add a Hella socket for my ARB fridge. I'm getting stuff together right now for add it, but wanted to see if y'all thought I could use something like the Quadratec 12 Volt Power adapter. It plugs into the aux power socket so it would always be hot. Im just not sure if the stock wiring can move enough power to keep the fridge running.

Thanks

Nate

The only power adapters I could find on Quadratec were for ignition switched power, which isn't a good choice for a fridge.

While a heavy gauge wire direct to battery (with a low voltage cut off if required) will be more optimal, my Engels run fine off of full-time-on, non switched cigarette plugs in both my Jeep and Suburban. My 2010 JKUR has only one of those, plus a switched outlet, but I use a cheap Radio Shack 3x1 adapter and that successfully runs a 600w inverter and the fridge, though the inverter is rarely used, and has never been used near rating.

My favorite Engel, runs 24/7 (or about 2.5 days if the Jeep is left unstarted) in my Jeep and there have been no issues in more than a year. And that is with a KoolTron 11v low voltage cut off switch/~5' extension cord between the cigarette lighter plud and the firidge. Battery is a single Grp 31 Blue Top.

BTW, the non-switched plug puts out more juice than the switched plug. Tthe difference is easily noticed when used to charge batteries.

 

[TexasTJ]

this is what i am talking about.

www.quadratec.com/ products/ 96080_9801.htm

delete the spaces.

Nate

 

[JPK]

From the Quadratec website: "Add accessory power that's ignition switched to operate accessories ..."

I believe that is from the product description of the part number you provided. Here's a link to the page: http://www.quadratec.com/products/96080_9801.htm

You don't want your fridge to be on an ignition switched circuit. And for use on a non-switched circuit you need either the fridge to have a low voltage cut off or to make sure to install one between the fridge and power source. You will also need a deep cycle battery for more than short term occasional use.

JPK

 

[TexasTJ]

You should be able to plug it in to the AUX too, they have the same plugs. I'm just going to just run the ten gauge wire like I had on my Rover.

thanks

Nate

 

[off-roader]

One thing I've seen done and also plan to do is to mount a small 12v deep cycle AGM battery in the back. That way I don't run down the starting battery (even though that's also a deep cycle) overnight should something go wrong with my ARB fridge. I saw this setup in Grasscat's rig and it was pretty sweet. When wheeling he simply plugged the small battery back into his rear cigarette lighter outlet to recharge it.:ylsmoke:

 

[BIGdaddy]

One thing I've seen done and also plan to do is to mount a small 12v deep cycle AGM battery in the back. That way I don't run down the starting battery (even though that's also a deep cycle) overnight should something go wrong with my ARB fridge. I saw this setup in Grasscat's rig and it was pretty sweet. When wheeling he simply plugged the small battery back into his rear cigarette lighter outlet to recharge it.:ylsmoke:

i like this idea. Would one need to vent this battery or seperate it in any way from the passenger compartment?

 

[JPK]

No, not if it's an Absorbed Glass Matt, or AGM. No fluids. And no venting except upon over charging. If you use a cigarette lighter to charge the battery the truck's voltage regulator will limit voltage and you won't over charge the battery.

Personally, I like the low voltage cut off switch better, takes up no room. If I did a lot of really remote exploring, I'd use a second battery though.
[Edit to mention that you would always want to prtect the battery terminal so that no "accidental discharge" ocurs. Like when something metalic lies across both terminals. That would drain the battery, but also be a fire hazard, so a battey box or something to gaurd the terminals (and secure the batttery) would be all that is required.]

JPK

 

[off-roader]

No, not if it's an Absorbed Glass Matt, or AGM. No fluids. And no venting except upon over charging. If you use a cigarette lighter to charge the battery the truck's voltage regulator will limit voltage and you won't over charge the battery.

Personally, I like the low voltage cut off switch better, takes up no room. If I did a lot of really remote exploring, I'd use a second battery though.
[Edit to mention that you would always want to prtect the battery terminal so that no "accidental discharge" ocurs. Like when something metalic lies across both terminals. That would drain the battery, but also be a fire hazard, so a battey box or something to gaurd the terminals (and secure the batttery) would be all that is required.]

JPK

The AGM battery I'm looking at is an Interstate unit that is very small and has screw on terminals so you can likely easily insulate them to prevent accidental discharges. Securing it is the thing I need to focus on now. I also thought about getting a low voltage cutoff switch. How much are they? Any recommendations on a reliable one?

 

[2drsrbtrrthn4]

I'm pretty sure my ARB fridge fried my 12v AGM main battery by running it out of juice a few times. I even utilized the low-voltage cutoff built into the fridge. To eliminate this from future occurrences, I have installed a dual battery controller and smart isolator. The setup goes like this- run everything off your main battery, (now a deep cycle AGM) and you will always have the 2nd battery (yellow top) for emergency starting of the vehicle. The controller monitors voltage in both batteries so its easy to visually see what kind of state they are in, as well as providing an audible alert should voltage go too low. It gives me the control to join the batteries in case I run the main down below the voltage needed to start the vehicle.

All that said, I'm running a rear compartment Blue Sea fusebox directly off the main battery with 8ga wire. The fridge plugs in with the Hella plug and socket.

Fingers crossed...