New member, 2001 montero limited.

[Monterorider]

yes

 

[off-roader]

So I can use 4hi all the time right ? Did I understand it right

Max speed is 60 mph iirc so no, not all the time

 

[Monterorider]

2H - 2WD use any time
4H - full time 4WD, center diff open, use any time, no speed limit, shift from 2H to 4H at speeds below 55 mph
4Hlc - 4WD, center diff locked, don't use on dry tarmac, for loose surfaces, no speed limit (but use within reason), stop to shift into
4Llc - 4WD, center diff locked, low range - wheeling in technical terrain, stop to shift into

 

[armostunt]

Ok thanks guys. I really appreciate the help and the info. Thank you

 

[off-roader]

Keep in mind that 55mph is based on stock tire sizes so you need to compensate if you're running bigger than stock tires.

 

[scrubber3]

Keep in mind that 55mph is based on stock tire sizes so you need to compensate if you're running bigger than stock tires.

Since the system is internal same as the speedometer, I don't think you have to compensate at all.

 

[Monterorider]

I'm sure 55 mph is for legal covering. They don't want you to get hurt messing with 4H going 100 mph then suing them. It's possible they could do something about it on Gen 3 with electronic shifter but Gen 2 is totally mechanical it would either work or not. Gears/splines will either mesh up or won't

 

[off-roader]

Since the system is internal same as the speedometer, I don't think you have to compensate at all.

Good point. That sounds correct now that I think about it further.

I'm sure 55 mph is for legal covering. They don't want you to get hurt messing with 4H going 100 mph then suing them. It's possible they could do something about it on Gen 3 with electronic shifter but Gen 2 is totally mechanical it would either work or not. Gears/splines will either mesh up or won't

Agreed. Although pretty rare, I know I've gone faster than 55mph off road on long wide open stretches of smooth dirt/gravel roads. Actually the only time I recall going that fast was when we had a 4x4 trip in central California through the San Bernardino mountains a few years back.

 

[Monterorider]

i've done close to that in low range. That's other side of tall low gearing Montero has I actually like.

 

[off-roader]

So I checked and I checked test after test and now the gauge works fine and the motor was never running hot. The upper hose now won't Calaps like it did when I saw it. I hope that never happens again. I went to Azuza Canyon today just to check to see if the 4x4 hi lo works and it does.
On a side note can you guys tell me when I should put the 4llc and 4hi. And what's the difference ? Thanks Eric.

Just to follow up on your comment about the hose collapsing... it will collapse when there's air in the system because as the air cools down it creates a vacuum which in turn collapses the radiator hose.

It's due to you loosing radiator fluid somehow. You need to watch this closely because it's possible you have a serious problem with the head gaskets, or other areas where coolant can escape. check your coolant level in 100 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles to ensure you're not loosing any. Hopefully it's just due to the previous owner not paying attention to it for years and not a more serious problem that's draining your coolant more quickly.

HTH.

 

[armostunt]

Thanks off-roader. Last time I checked it was good but I'll check like you told me just to make sure. Thanks a lot.

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

Thanks off-roader. Last time I checked it was good but I'll check like you told me just to make sure. Thanks a lot.

Were you able to find a burp/bleeder valve where the upper radiator hose connects to the motor?

 

[armostunt]

Yes sir. I did I opened it and only coolant came out. Checked the radiator and was full. But I'm going to take it to my moms house wher she has a 45 deg. drive way so I can check like you guys said. Just to busy with work right now. So maybe this weekend.

 

[RisingSun]

Another thing to remember in all of this is that you have an interference engine that is ran by a timing belt and also feeds the water pump. The recommended replacement period on the timing belt and components in 60,000 miles. You are well over double that and depending on how hard the previous owner worked the engine (towing or driving with heavy loads, lots of people etc.) your timing components could be pretty shot. I just replaced the timing belt, water pump, timing tensioner cam, timing idler cam and such on my 2003 that had 96,000 miles on it. I was right at the point where the timing was greater than 20 degrees out. Just some food for thought, but if the timing belt goes or your timing falls too far out you risk slapping a valve with a head and then you have major mechanical problems and most likely will need a whole new engine. Also, on the 3.8L the system autobleeds and from what I can tell actually does a really great job. Good Luck!

 

[off-roader]

Another thing to remember in all of this is that you have an interference engine that is ran by a timing belt and also feeds the water pump. The recommended replacement period on the timing belt and components in 60,000 miles. You are well over double that and depending on how hard the previous owner worked the engine (towing or driving with heavy loads, lots of people etc.) your timing components could be pretty shot. I just replaced the timing belt, water pump, timing tensioner cam, timing idler cam and such on my 2003 that had 96,000 miles on it. I was right at the point where the timing was greater than 20 degrees out. Just some food for thought, but if the timing belt goes or your timing falls too far out you risk slapping a valve with a head and then you have major mechanical problems and most likely will need a whole new engine. Also, on the 3.8L the system autobleeds and from what I can tell actually does a really great job. Good Luck!

Not sure about needing a new engine part. CAP510 recently encountered a slipped belt problem due to excessive mud drying out and building up in the cogs of the timing belt pulleys on his 3.5L DOHC engine. Result was the belt slipped, valves hit the heads, etc.

End result was he needing new valves and had to machine the heads. Some heads still have dents in them from the valves but he did not require a new engine... just a top end rebuild. While he was at it, he replaced his valve guide seals.

Remember this was on a 3.5 not the 3.8 so your mileage may vary. HTH.