opinions on my series build.

hey guys i finally got back into the land rover world about 3 weeks ago. now i have a 1965 109 pick up and its been half restored. the frame bulkhead and breakfast are spotless. body is straight, interior is all painted, it runs and drives. both like crap but it runs and drives. Right now i have just been cleaning it up, dropped the tank and cleaned it what not. now my question is. i want it to be a fun weekend truck, and also be able to wheel it, and go on camping trips with it. now my situation is i am not sure what to do drive train wise. i am not sure if i want to keep the stock 2.25 and 4 speed and what not. in my head i would like to do a 200 tdi, LT77,lt230, and than maybe. yota axles. i also have no idea what kind leafs to run, i can fabricate if i have to but i dont want to go crazy. i hear good and bad things about parabolics. i heard people make YJ leafs fit, i heard people put 63 chevy leafs in them. i have no idea what way i want to go. i know i will be hauling stuff so i dont want such soft leafs but i want to be able to have nice articulation! i am very new to series trucks so everyone HELP ME FIGURE OUT MY THOUGHTS! anyone who can help give me better options or better details or tips on doing a yota axle swap or 200 tdi swap or anything will be greatly appreciated! IMG_2058.jpgIMG_2034.jpgIMG_2065.jpg
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
It really depends on what kind of wheeling you are planning to do.

Compared to a Jeep (CJ/YJ/TJ), there's a lot of sheetmetal out there for rock-crawling, although some people do it. Rocker skids and a stout front bumper are good places to start for just about any type of wheeling. Birmabright isn't the easiest metal to work with, so the more damage you can prevent the better off you will be. Properly designed rocker skids can also stiffen up the passenger compartment, which is a nice bonus.

Have you considered power steering? The P38 steering box is popular, and I'm just about to do the swap on my own project. It would make driving the rig with larger tires much more pleasant.

The Mercedes 617 diesels are looking pretty good, and there are near-drop-in swaps available now (Robert Davis). Check out TeriAnn's site for more info. With that and the other conversion components out there for Series rigs (truck transmissions), you can really build a stout drivetrain these days with not a lot of custom work. Just throwing it out there, since the options over the last couple years have grown exponentially.

Suspension is a whole 'nother bucket of worms that I'm avoiding right now on my own project. I'll let others comment on that.
 
well i dont plan on going rock crawling i live in Long island New york. body protection is going to be in the the mix aswell. but i will be going on trips to other places. i always forgot about the 617 diesels. but i dont really want the series 4 speed transmission i would rather a 5 speed. so does anyone know of an adapter plates? maybe the 617's 5speed with a lt230? i think thats what alaska rover did right? but the 617 is a good option just depends how much i can get one for.
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
aka rover's 109 is running a Tremec T176 4 speed, from what I recall. At least, he has the T176 out of my CJ in the shop to use as a spare. It has a synchro, street-usable 1st gear (3.53?), is compact, can be adapted easily, and holds up well behind larger engines.
 

LR Max

Local Oaf
I recommend trying to find a decent US engine/easily US source-able parts. My friend has a 300TDI and getting parts (without paying a ridiculous premium) all have to come from England...his truck has been down from the count for most of this year.

Same with my Series 3 transmission. Down from the count most of this year trying to find parts and get it sorted out. If I had to do it all over again, I would've told my guy to put an American Transmission in it. Better, stronger, and when it craps any transmission shop knows what they are looking at.

Personally, I won't ever put a rover power train component back in my 109.

That said, if I were to build a nice little around-town/light wheeler series truck, I'd look at finding a V6, transmission, transfer case + full harness and computers out of something made in the last 10 years (thinking Tacoma/4 Runner). LOTS of power, parts can be found easily, and efficient.

Spring over 63" chevy leafs will take fabrication as well as traction bars. However you'll be happy with that setup. You need the traction bars as I have seen a YJ kill a set of leaf springs in 2 months without it. Toyota axles would be clutch. I'd love to build a full custom Diamond housing and then get a whatever Toyota 8" for the rear. Lock both and be done.

So you'll have the strength of the overbuilt chassis, the classic look, but modern drivetrain that allows you to ACTUALLY go with a suspension that doesn't knock your kidneys out and works on the trail. Good to go.

That is assuming you are cool with "going all the way".
 

Howski

Well-known member
contrary to LR_Max's point, I would say keep it simple with the engine. I think adding anything with computers would add a lot of time and/or cost to the project as opposed to something mechanical. For reference, I have a 200 TDI in my Defender and love it so far. It's really nice not having to deal with any computers (and associate issues). Tons of room in the engine bay and simple to work on. The LT77 isn't a bad trans but it's certainly not the tightest or quickest shifting manual I've ever driven, but for my purposes (and budget) it does just fine.
 

Snagger

Explorer
It depends on what you want to do with the vehicle. I have a 109 to which I fitted a 200Tdi, retained the standard transmission but added a Roverdrive, fitted decent (Heystee) parabolics and recently fitted Defender 110 axles and disc brakes. Uprating the engine was very hepful, but it does make the cab noisier, even with a lot of sound proofing, and the overdrive helped with reducing the cruising noise levels and fuel consumption while increasing speed. The new axles still have their 3.54 diffs, so that further gearing increase makes cruising quite reasonable, but at the cost of the ease of pulling away swiftly at junctions.

I have had no trouble from the standard transmission behind the Tdi in the four years and 25,000 miles since I fit it, and that includes some towing and several heavily laden journeys, includinga 2,500 mile fully laden trip around, up and down the Alps. As long as you aren't rock crawling and have a little mechanical sympathy and moderate amount of foot co-ordination, there is little wrong with the standard transmission. Likewise the steering - properly set up, the standard steering is fine, just a little heavy at very low speed on dry tarmac.

Have a look at my blog for some ideas, if you like - all the hundreds of mods, large and small, are detailed in it.
 

Jitterbug

Adventurer
I wouldnt be in a rush to put the LT77 behind anything, i have gone from an R380 300tdi combo in a 110 to a 3.9 V8 LT77 combo in my 90. The LT77 hasnt broken (200bhp+ ish on the worked V8) but it doesnt feel anywhere near as tight as the R380.

My 6x6 defender has LT95 4 speed and will sit behing a 4BD1T but is a while off running yet.
 
I recommend trying to find a decent US engine/easily US source-able parts. My friend has a 300TDI and getting parts (without paying a ridiculous premium) all have to come from England...his truck has been down from the count for most of this year.

Same with my Series 3 transmission. Down from the count most of this year trying to find parts and get it sorted out. If I had to do it all over again, I would've told my guy to put an American Transmission in it. Better, stronger, and when it craps any transmission shop knows what they are looking at.

Personally, I won't ever put a rover power train component back in my 109.

That said, if I were to build a nice little around-town/light wheeler series truck, I'd look at finding a V6, transmission, transfer case + full harness and computers out of something made in the last 10 years (thinking Tacoma/4 Runner). LOTS of power, parts can be found easily, and efficient.

Spring over 63" chevy leafs will take fabrication as well as traction bars. However you'll be happy with that setup. You need the traction bars as I have seen a YJ kill a set of leaf springs in 2 months without it. Toyota axles would be clutch. I'd love to build a full custom Diamond housing and then get a whatever Toyota 8" for the rear. Lock both and be done.

So you'll have the strength of the overbuilt chassis, the classic look, but modern drivetrain that allows you to ACTUALLY go with a suspension that doesn't knock your kidneys out and works on the trail. Good to go.

That is assuming you are cool with "going all the way".

thanks guys. now like some other guys said i want something with no computers, and i DO want diesel. i really dont want to have a gas engine. i have felt an LT77 before i had a 90 with a 2.5na and a lt77. is there a write up somewhere for a 63 chevy swap? also does anyone know if the 200tdi mates right up to the series tranny?
 

blue bomber

Adventurer
These ideas are great but the cost of a used engine is deal breaker for TDI stuff plus partsare expensive. 10 million hillbillies can't be wrong the small block Chevrolet is the universal replacement engine. I have less than 1k in my engine.Parts and machine work. Granted I assembled the engine, it's tough to beat.


Tapatalk sucks, sent from Matthew's IPhone
 

blue bomber

Adventurer
Santana parabolics and an np435 with AA adapters to the stock t/case. I have posted the details on this forum at some point. Do a search, you'll find it.
Cheers, Matthew


Tapatalk sucks, sent from Matthew's IPhone
 

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