Discovery 1electrical issue..HELP NEEDED

[zolo]

Just picked up a running driving D1 for a deal from a good friend.
Got started last night with the clean up, check over and dis-assembly for a light duty build.

The truck is pretty decent and runs ok. Has a slight misfire but I hope to cure that with a full tune up and base line of the ignition stuff. Also base line the oils.

I am getting a weird starting issue.
When I turn the key to the RUN position of the ignition switch the truck engages the starter and it starts?!?!
I never get to the crank position...It just starts up and runs in the run position, its an issue cause the starter gets power and stays engaged the whole time. And it sounds terrible cause it is terrible. It's trying to start the truck even though its running.
I have tested the electric portion of the switch. It test good.
I tested the relay and it is working, not stuck.
But it is getting power between the switch and the relay to engage the starter?

What am i missing here? This is a strange issue. Is there something else in line? I have looked at the diagram from ALL-Data and it shows a very simple system. One that has simply the switch to the relay?






MY original QUESTION I FIXED THIS ISSUE...
The tcase will go in and out of lock. But it will not go in and out of low range. So its stuck in High, and when I drive the truck it kicks out of tcase high gear. The tcase will not move forward to low range at all. And fails to stay in High while diving?

Any help with what I should be looking for is appreciated.
Seems to be stuck. The truck did site for a long time. But this seems like something more than just siting.

Thanks for the help.

 

[tacr2man]

Its not uncommon for the t/case control to be siezed up on discovery as they tend to get very little use due type of driver/use of this demographic . Free the control cranks and levers up on the t/case top of front output housing and that usually sorts the job . HTSH

 

[zolo]

Yeah I was also reading about a solenoid that fails and keep the t-case shifter from going into low range.
I have a feeling that might be the culprit. Mainly because the truck is pretty rust fee and clean. However I will look into the linkage being locked up also.
Maybe both issues are keeping me from low range.
Not the easiest linkage to get to that's for sure.

 

[zolo]

Any help with this would be appreciated.
I changed the title and issue so as not to have to start a new thread..

 

[Daryl]

Are you attempting to shift it into low range in neutral? If not, it's not going to go anywhere.

Can you lock the center diff? Probably not if you can't even get into low range.

You probably are looking at pulling the center console, removing the rubber from over the transfer case selector and cleaning up the linkages. With as stuck as it sounds, you may want to disconnect both linkages and sort out the shifter first (you can take the cover off over the base of the stick to clean it out and grease the pivot and linkages). Once the shifter itself moves, go on to high/low and center diff lock, cleaning and unsticking linkages and seeing if the transfer case will even let you shift into gear. If the solenoid is still keeping it in high range, now is the time to replace (or just remove) that solenoid.

One other thought, have you checked to see if you have sufficient gear oli in the transfer case? They like to leak out of the inspection cover. If you're low it may not even bet getting any oil up top where it lubricates these things internally. If that's the case, I'd properly fill it and drive it arounds for a few days in the hopes of getting things moving again once they have some oil where it needs to be.

While you're doing that soak the linkage for the CDL with penetrating lubricant.

And once you get all of this working, remember to use it once a month or you'll be right back here again with stuck linkages.

 

[zolo]

Yeah I got the t-case working fine...
Now I'm on to the electrical issue... Any advice on that?

 

[Daryl]

Yeah I got the t-case working fine...
Now I'm on to the electrical issue... Any advice on that?

Oh, yeah...missed that one.

Pull the small wire off of the starter solenoid. Check for voltage in the run position, then check in the start position.

If you have voltage on that wire in the run position it's shorted to something else on keyed power or the ignition switch is bad. I'd likely start by going after the ignition switch and testing it with a volt meter or test light.

Do you have the electrical service manual? You'll want it for this.

Edit: or if this is just a beater you can put in a push start switch

 

[zolo]

Yeah I have ALLDATA, all though its not great for this truck.

I have tested the ignition switch and it seems good. But I have a second switch I will install. I also have a rover security box in case this went crazy. I will replace that.
If it is still acting up, I will pull the fuse panel and check the wires behind the panel and see if they are touching or hard shorted.

After that I will just run my own mini harness for the starting circuit and just make it work correct out side of that circuit.

 

[Daryl]

Yeah I have ALLDATA, all though its not great for this truck.

http://macassemble.com/lrm/

I also have a rover security box in case this went crazy.

What is a "Rover Security Box"? Do you mean a spider? That's not causing your issue.

If it is still acting up, I will pull the fuse panel and check the wires behind the panel and see if they are touching or hard shorted.

After that I will just run my own mini harness for the starting circuit and just make it work correct out side of that circuit.

That's pretty much what you're left with. Look through the electrical manual at the link I posted to get an idea of what/where you need to trace the start wire from the ignition switch out to the starter.

 

[zolo]

http://macassemble.com/lrm/
Thank you for the link. That is a good resource.


What is a "Rover Security Box"? Do you mean a spider? That's not causing your issue.



That's pretty much what you're left with. Look through the electrical manual at the link I posted to get an idea of what/where you need to trace the start wire from the ignition switch out to the starter.

Thank you for the link. That is a good resource.

The security box is basically a little control unit for the alarm security system. That was a long shot and I ended up with a later model unit and it didn't work anyway.

I ended up running a new wire from ignition to starter relay and everything works as it should now. I'm like 99% it has a weird short at the fuse panel.
After I base line the truck and get rid of the miss fire. And all new oils and suspension. I will go back and sort it out. For now it works and nothing has been changed dramatically.

 

[Daryl]

I'm like 99% it has a weird short at the fuse panel.

Nothing weird about it. It's pretty common to have a bad fuse box in these as well as P38s. Depending on exactly how/where it is failing it can cause all manner of electrical gremlins.