12v switch for winch
- Thread starter ebg18t
- Start date
chromisdesigns
Adventurer
Winch current will smoke any switch you are likely to find. If you want toggle-on/off, you need a heavy-duty relay for the winch feed and a switch to energize the relay. Check the max current spec for your winch, then multiply by 1.5 or 2 for safety factor, and get a relay or solenoid rated for at least that much current.
The anchor winch on my sailboat could draw over 150 amps pulling hard.
The anchor winch on my sailboat could draw over 150 amps pulling hard.
Yep. That is why I have not seen many options. But I know they exist somewhere.
chromisdesigns
Adventurer
Simple and small = solenoid and a switch. Anything that will switch winch current directly is going to be big and clunky, like those battery switches. No way around Ohm's law, unfortunately!
G35Vortec454
Adventurer
Your winch is already operated by a solenoid; don't need another one.
You can use a 2nd switch (other than the included wired or wireless remote), which use small current to energize the solenoid.
I don't quite understand why you want an extra switch. Just in case the built-in solenoid or the cable shorts? If it's the later, use a fuse. If you're bent on getting that 2nd switch, order the same solenoid as that one on top of your winch.Mount it under the hood and wire it in series with the winch solenoid.
You can use a 2nd switch (other than the included wired or wireless remote), which use small current to energize the solenoid.
I don't quite understand why you want an extra switch. Just in case the built-in solenoid or the cable shorts? If it's the later, use a fuse. If you're bent on getting that 2nd switch, order the same solenoid as that one on top of your winch.Mount it under the hood and wire it in series with the winch solenoid.
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I want the winch disconnected from the battery except when being used. My last truck was totaled by a short in the solenoid when the truck was parked not being used.. Not going to go thru that again. I was NO juice going to winch unless I need it.
G35Vortec454
Adventurer
Then the fuse is the appropriate course of action for it. But it seems you want another layer of insurance, therefore you can either use the solenoid in series as I suggested above or use a Battery disconnect switch such as the Hella switch.
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Hella_Battery_Disconnect_Switch.html
However, bear in mind that extending battery cables and more junctions result in more exposure to what you're trying to avoid.
I hope you had a good insurance and low / zero deductible that covered your total loss.
Unfortunately the insurance company decline coverage on all upgrades. The cost of the vehicle was covered completely though.
I like the switch you linked to. If I understand the amperage ratings correct I should have no issue using that inline with the (+) line to break the connection. When I want to use the winch I can just insert the key and connect. I ask as some of the other options like that one (not hella) were only rated to 150-200 amps continuous.
EDIT:
Looks like hella has the following ratings:
12VDC, 100 Amp Continuous
12VDC, 500 Amp Intermitten
3/8" OD terminals
Overall dimensions: 4 1/4" x 2 1/4" x 2 1/4"
Removable key.
Comes w/hardware.
G35Vortec454
Adventurer
Looks like the 1000A a misprint, tgey ave diff models.
Here's a few more I found:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BATTERY-DOCTOR-Battery-Isolator-Switch-6TXE1?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BATTERY-DOCTOR-Battery-Isolator-Disconnect-6TXE0?Pid=search
Theyre out there, you jst have to look for them and willing to pay $$$
Here's a few more I found:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BATTERY-DOCTOR-Battery-Isolator-Switch-6TXE1?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BATTERY-DOCTOR-Battery-Isolator-Disconnect-6TXE0?Pid=search
Theyre out there, you jst have to look for them and willing to pay $$$
Thanks for the links. In reviewing all the options it might just be cheaper and easier to use the warn quick connects. Looks like they are about $35-40 for a set. Then i just need to get a 2/0g crimper device. i also was looking at the TJM winches that have a battery disconnect switch included.
4RunAmok
Explorer
The only real way, with 500 Amp Continuous Duty, to have a tiny switch inside the car, but heavy duty operation under the hood is going to be with this:
http://www.bluesea.com/products/7700/ML-RBS_Remote_Battery_Switch_with_Manual_Control_-_12V_DC_500A
Not the cheapest option available, but I wouldn't go cheap when I'm dealing with the amps in question. Marine grade durability, performance proven around the world, you can't go wrong with Blue Sea.
The hella switch will do the trick affordably, but removes the convenience of the in-dash switch.
http://www.bluesea.com/products/7700/ML-RBS_Remote_Battery_Switch_with_Manual_Control_-_12V_DC_500A
Not the cheapest option available, but I wouldn't go cheap when I'm dealing with the amps in question. Marine grade durability, performance proven around the world, you can't go wrong with Blue Sea.
The hella switch will do the trick affordably, but removes the convenience of the in-dash switch.
Dennx
Adventurer
I got this Blue Sea switch for my winch install.
Continuous Rating 600A
Intermittent Rating 900A (5 min)
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...id=1386182993&sr=1-9&keywords=blue+sea+switch
Continuous Rating 600A
Intermittent Rating 900A (5 min)
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...id=1386182993&sr=1-9&keywords=blue+sea+switch