2001 3.0L Sport has 240,000 miles. Switch to synthetic???

[redraif]

The previous owner did not take care of this beast as she should have. I want to prolong the life of this engine by doing things right with it, so I have been concidering the switch to synthetic. I have a bit of lifter tick and I have read folks saying the synthetic helps with this. I was thinking high mileage Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W40.

I know people freak with high mile motors due to old seals running the risk of leaking when one switches. Well from what I have read the main leaks from this motor are at the valve cover gaskets, cam seal and crank seal. Well all of these have been changed after 225,000 miles as they were all leaking badly. So I should be ok on leaks if I switch over, since I have the common ones already replaced?

What do you guys think? If I do switch over is there a better oil filter to use since you don't change oil as frequently with synthetic?

Thank you!

 

[KyleT]

I would use rotella t6 5w40. I don't buy the "high mileage" gimmick.

 

[mtnbike28]

A single point does not make a trend.... BUT - when I switched a high mileage motor to synthetic late, I developed leaks.... Again just one instance!

 

[Toasty]

I would use rotella t6 5w40. I don't buy the "high mileage" gimmick.

X2 T6 is what i run in my V6's and late model I4's, i run the Rotella 15W40 in old dinosaur engines like 4G54 or 4D55.

 

[redraif]

A single point does not make a trend.... BUT - when I switched a high mileage motor to synthetic late, I developed leaks.... Again just one instance!

This is what I have heard, but it mostly occurs in vehicles that had seals ready to go. If I have replaced the 4 that typically leak, so I hope that should keep things under control

 

[redraif]

X2 T6 is what i run in my V6's and late model I4's, i run the Rotella 15W40 in old dinosaur engines like 4G54 or 4D55.

I would use rotella t6 5w40. I don't buy the "high mileage" gimmick.

Is this a better oil then mobile 1? The high mileage is the same cost as regular. I just thought what the heck if it costs the same

 

[TheViking]

I use the high mileage Mobile 1 and have used the Valvoline Max life synthetic. I prefer the Mobile 1 but the Max Life isn't that bad.

 

[montypower]

There are some misconceptions with oil changes... You change your oil for two reasons: it gets dirty and oil breaks down over time. Running synthetic oil doesn't keep your oil clean longer. So, you should change the filter at the same/similar interval before the oil gets too dirty. The concept of longer change intervals with synthetic is valid if you can keep the oil clean. However, most modern oils will outlast the filter.

It's hard to know for certain... but many synthetic oils claim to decrease initial motor start wear. I have noticed decreased hydraulic lifter noise with certain synthetic motor oils (so could have some truth).

Synthetic oil won't necessarily make your motor last longer. There are countless examples of people running extreme high mileage on cheap oil.

I would recommend using the factory oil filter as they are typically better quality than most aftermarket options. Oil type isn't a huge factor but run the proper viscosity (for your use and climate), keep at proper levels and change before it gets too dirty.

BTW... I wouldn't change to synthetic at high mileage unless you like leaks. Cam seals, crank seal, rear main, oil pan... just to name a few.

 

[YOURDOCTORONLY]

Hey man, doesn't matter the oil, what your Mitsubishi needs is good maintenance, my Montero has 261,456 miles, still using 10W30, just water pump, seals, and timing belt change when have to, catalytic converter, Rancho shocks, 32' and this beauty still running like new

 

[KyleT]

I like the rotella because according to posts on bob is the oil guy, it contains one of the highest amounts of zinc.