M101-A3 to match my 2001 Suburban 2500

[snowblind]

Hi Gang.

Big thanks to everyone for the wealth of info provided here. My research here allowed me to feel very confident in getting a military trailer.

So... on to the photos.

I found this on the local classifieds. I paid $800 (which I think is a little high) but the trailer has no dents or rust and minimal wear. I can also sell the wheels and tires to try and get a little money back.



Rolled out my Suburban's summer shoes for a test fit. Tires are 285/70/17 on H2 wheels.




Threw a few things in to gauge capacity. This thing can hold a LOT!

Each storage container is 28.5 x 19.5 x 15.2


Yakima SkyBox 18 is 92.00" X W 36.00" X H 16.00"


Next step for me was to remove the surge brake and pintle. I'm going to keep the handbrakes and go brakeless when towing. Down the road I may swap the suspension and axle out for a modern design with brakes but it's probably not needed.



Matt

 

[snowblind]

Stiff Springs!

Has anyone tried to soften up these trailers by removing a couple of leaf springs?

I will be hauling a LOT less than this trailer was built to haul and I would like to reduce the bouncing, skipping and banging as much as possible.


Matt

 

[RagnarD]

IMO, the springs are fine and are not as heavy duty as the rest of the trailer. Before pulling leafs I would get your tongue done, play with tire pressure, and load distribution. Mine pulled a lot better without the 37s and surge brake (stuck with pintle). Weight in the front of the trailer helps too.

Looks like a clean trailer and the new tires look nice. Around here, $800 would be a good price. Good call keeping the hand brakes and ditching the surge brake mechanism. Your passenger side hand brake lever looks a bit broken.

The tongue take off parts have value as well so try selling them before scrapping.

I tried those bins (costco) and did not like them because they hold water in the lid but the fit looks nice.

What are your plans for the tongue?

 

[snowblind]

IMO, the springs are fine and are not as heavy duty as the rest of the trailer. Before pulling leafs I would get your tongue done, play with tire pressure, and load distribution. Mine pulled a lot better without the 37s and surge brake (stuck with pintle). Weight in the front of the trailer helps too.

Looks like a clean trailer and the new tires look nice. Around here, $800 would be a good price. Good call keeping the hand brakes and ditching the surge brake mechanism. Your passenger side hand brake lever looks a bit broken.

The tongue take off parts have value as well so try selling them before scrapping.

I tried those bins (costco) and did not like them because they hold water in the lid but the fit looks nice.

What are your plans for the tongue?

Hey Ragnar.

Thanks for replying. I used your build thread for ideas. Thinking about getting a welder also...

Thanks for the first hand experience with the springs. I'll give it a few camping runs before I change anything. I was a little worried because I've seen the A3 labeled as a "1-ton" trailer and thought it might be stiffer than the "3/4 ton" A1/2s.

I do need to get a replacement hand brake lever. What's the best source for parts on these old girls?

I got the costco bins at Lowes a few years ago. I bought them for the stackability but the lid does totally hold water.

For the tongue I'm thinking either 2" receiver or an adjustable rail like you are running. I'm leaning towards the 2" receiver right now because it looks so clean.


Matt

 

[RagnarD]

The chassis is rated at 1 ton but with the ~500 lb bed, the capacity is only 1500 lbs. Tack on a spare, tool boxes, fuel, water, ice chest etc, the weight starts to add up. You will be happy with it behind your 2500. The width is just wide enough to see in the mirrors when backing up.

The frames and springs of the A3 are larger than the A2/A1. E trailer sells the brake levers but they are expensive. It may be worth joining steel soldiers and offering to trade some take off parts for a new lever. Ebay and the classifieds here are worth checking as well.

I regretted not extending the tongue on mine and not retaining the hand brakes so I picked up a flatbed 116A3 and am in the process of modifying/swapping the new chassis under my cargo bed. My plan is to use 3" square tubing (3/16") to extend the coupler a few feet and tie it into the second cross member. I am going to use a channel mount coupler again.

 

[Mark Harley]

Great trailers with tons of room.

Many great ideas and builds too.

My junk. http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...d-a-Military-trailer-to-build-a-family-hauler

Keep us posted on the build.

 

[snowblind]

The chassis is rated at 1 ton but with the ~500 lb bed, the capacity is only 1500 lbs. Tack on a spare, tool boxes, fuel, water, ice chest etc, the weight starts to add up. You will be happy with it behind your 2500. The width is just wide enough to see in the mirrors when backing up.

The frames and springs of the A3 are larger than the A2/A1. E trailer sells the brake levers but they are expensive. It may be worth joining steel soldiers and offering to trade some take off parts for a new lever. Ebay and the classifieds here are worth checking as well.

I am a member over there but have just been lurking.

I regretted not extending the tongue on mine and not retaining the hand brakes so I picked up a flatbed 116A3 and am in the process of modifying/swapping the new chassis under my cargo bed. My plan is to use 3" square tubing (3/16") to extend the coupler a few feet and tie it into the second cross member. I am going to use a channel mount coupler again.

Ignoring how it will be tied to the chassis for a sec... Are you talking about adding overall trailer length? EG: Moving the coupler 12" beyond the current location?



Matt

 

[snowblind]

Great trailers with tons of room.

Many great ideas and builds too.

My junk. http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...d-a-Military-trailer-to-build-a-family-hauler

Keep us posted on the build.

Thanks Mark. I am ALL ABOUT your trailer build. Inspired me greatly.

How are you liking that tarp/machine cover. I am thinking of ordering one up. Is the 10oz Tarp heavy enough?



Matt

 

[Mark Harley]

The cover has held up well.
I do clean it often but it is outside in the Pennsylvania weather uncovered.
I do wipe it wit armor all several times a year to keep it pliable.

 

[RagnarD]

Yes, extending the overall length of trailer. Not fully settled on how much of an extension but will probably be in the 2-3 feet range to start. Much easier to shorten than lengthen if I change my mind later.

 

[snowblind]

Tongue Removal

One of REALLY nice things about these military trailers is the field-strippability Pretty much every part can be removed by 2-4 bolts if you have a big enough air-gun. This is really nice for me because I can transport the disassembled pieces much easier than the whole trailer.

Ready for tongue removal.



Say ahhhhhh...





Removed...





Removed the surge brake and pintle but then had to cut n' grind to remove the landing gear. Here are the pieces ready for modification.





Matt

 

[snowblind]

Adding a reciever tube

I've decided to go with a 2" receiver tube for the trailer connection. There are many good options but for me this made the most sense.

I ordered this 48" long Curt receiver tube on Amazon and I will have it welded to the underside of the stock trailer "nose cone." I will also add a cross bar at the rear of the receiver for support and torsional rigidity. Here is a crude drawing to explain.



The cross bar will be bolted to the frame and receiver, not welded. My desire is to maintain the ability to remove/replace broken parts easily.


Matt

 

[Blacknight]

Looking good!

 

[snowblind]

48" Receiver tube is here

I received the 48" long receiver tube. This was the longest pre-drilled/collared tube I could find.

Here it is with 36" in front of the A-frame.



With 24" in front of the A-frame.



And with 19" in front of the A-frame.







I'm thinking of going with the 19" for the way the receiver lines up at the rear. There will be a cross piece here that spans the A and supports the receiver. With a coupler inserted overall tongue length will be really close to 24".


Matt

 

[RagnarD]

19" looks good, but I would also consider the tow vehicle tailgate geometry and plans for gear on the tongue of trailer. Make sure it is long enough to jack knife the trailer and you can open the tailgate with the trailer coupled.

So you are going to weld the 2.5" tube to the bottom of the A-frame bracket? If you were not already planning on it, may want to bolt everything back onto the trailer before welding. Getting the bolts all of the bolts lined up is a challenge without introducing any strain from welding or modifications.

Here is my plan. Use 3" tubing for the the tongue and tie it into a frame cross member. I have the same 2" receiver and plan to use it on the rear of the trailer.