Day 9 & 10 - Canyonlands National Park and White Rim Trail
Another one of my major goals from this trip was to check out Canyonlands National Park via the White Rim Trail. I love visiting National Parks and have spent many of my vacations spending a significant time in them. On my last trip to Moab we went to Arches NP but I have never ventured into Canyonlands. Canyonlands is rare in the aspect that it is relatively hard to access and remote, perfect for a Jeep trip.
We packed up that morning and headed over to Canyonlands from Moab. We stopped in at the Visitors Center and then went down to see the Mesa Arch. Mesa Arch was a pretty cool sight but very popular and very crowded. It was a hassle just trying to get a picture of the arch with all of the tourist flocking around. With the obligatory tourist box checked we set out to find remoteness. The White Rim trail is an incredibly long (more than 70 miles, not counting the dirt road which gets you back out to pavement at the end) and scenic trail. You access the trail just inside the park, and while we did pass a few vehicles it did not take us long to lose the crowds. This trail, as the others, proved to be an adventure for us. I knew in the back of my head that we got started on this trail later than we should have and we had 77 miles to go to meet our designated camping spot in Taylor Canyon. I hoped the trail, even though it was listed intermediate, would allow us 10-15mph average speeds. With the trailer, this was not to be. We descended the Shaffer Switchbacks and dropped down into the main trail. Immediately we knew this was going to be a spectacular trail and around every turn was a different canyon system with amazing vistas. The beginning of the trail went smoothly and we stopped at the Musselman arch to check it out and eat lunch.
Shaffer Switchbacks
Musselman Arch (much better than Mesa Arch)
Pano with Musselman on the left as we went around the next Canyon.
We continued down the trail at what felt like a snails pace. It probably actually wasn't that slow but knowing that we still had 55+ miles to go put a great deal of stress on me. We were battling with how fast we wanted to go versus how fast we needed to push the equipment. (mainly the trailer) After we passed the airport campsites (which seemed like the worst ones on the trail, I wouldn't pick those) we ran into a NPS Park Ranger on a dirt bike. He stopped us and checked our permits. We chatted with him for a bit, commented on his aparently awesome job, and asked about trail conditions. He told us (while looking at the sun as if he was Crocodile Dundee) that we had plenty of sunlight left to make it to Taylor Canyon. This was a moral boost for us and we blasted on with Taylor Canyon in our sights.
I don't have many details about the trail to provide, as really it was an easy to intermediate level trail. It was just terrain which included bumps, ruts, and dried out creek beds, which kept us from baja speeds through the park. The scenery was amazing and exactly what I hoped it would be. My only complaint about the scenery, and trail in general, is that we were in such a rush to make it to our camp by dark that we didn't get to properly enjoy it. Several hours after meeting our Park Ranger Tyson and I dicussed that he was probably laughing as he rode away. "Taylor Canyon by dark? Sure guys, plenty of <chuckles> sun light left." It became apparent to us that we weren't going to make it there by dark and the question now would be, just how late would it be?
Tyson and I switch drivers around mile 40 or 50, which allowed me some time to soak up the sights and take photographs from a bumpy Jeep.
Sunlight was fading away...
We made it to Candlestick campsite around dark where we stopped and spoke a group of very intoxicated mountain bikers. They were more familiar with the area and told us we had about an hour or two to make it to Taylor Canyon. We felt their estimate was probably off, but they ensured us the road smoothed out and we would be able to pick up some steam. They were mostly true and the trail did smooth out. We continued on but began to look at other options. We are rule followers. Canyonlands has a very strict permit system regarding camping and camping is only allowed in select campsites. I knew we could really camp in any flat spot but we wanted to follow the rules. We had to also consider what we would be dealing with the next day. Since we all have real jobs with real boses we needed to be back home on Sept 22nd. My dad in particular needed to be at work on the 23rd. After this night of camping we would be getting up, finishing up the trail and heading straight back to NC. It just so happened that we made it to Potato Bottom Campsite and site B was unoccupied. It was about 9:30, I didn't think anyone else would be coming in later than us. I remembered this site still being available on the internet so I felt ok with taking it. We circled the wagons and pulled in. It was probably the quickest camp setup of the entire trip. I think inside of 30 minutes we had the awning on the WJ, the camper was deployed, and dad had broke out the kitchen and we began our Salmon dinner. (which had been in marinade all day!)
I did notice that we had indeed pushed the trailer to its limits this day. A bracket near the rear entry door had broken and we had lost some of the structure which supported the trailer tub. Not perfect.
Waking up the next morning we realized how awesome of a campsite we had. Even though there are three sites here you can't see your neighbors, and high canyon walls and desert formations surround you on all sides. The river is nearby so I do believe it could be buggy at times.
I deployed a ratchet strap solution to the broken trailer which held it together and we were out of camp by 0830. The scenery on the way out would be just as awesome as the day before. We made it to the intersection with Taylor Canyon within our first 30-45 minutes on the trail and passing this was bittersweet. I knew that Taylor was to be an awesome site, with Moses and Zeus nearby. I will be back!
We made quick time on the exit. The trail conditions improved greatly and we were able to safely average 15-20 mph over loose dirt and sand. We made it back to pavement, aired up and attached the sway bars. It was an epic trip which has really given me the Overland bug. On the way home my mind would be filled with future trips, things I want to do, and things I would have done differently. I was sad to leave but also relieved that our vehicles made it through all of this without any major damage. We pointed the vehicles east and headed back to NC....
....well that was until about Denver. Going through some of the interstate mountain passes just west of Denver I noticed the WJ began to overheat. Everything else seemed normal, no weird noises, power seemed normal, just running hot. I reduced my speed and ducked in behind the big rigs. I thought maybe the water pump was going bad or something. On flat and down hill the temps went back to normal and only ran hot during steep and long climbs. I wanted to limp it closer to Denver before we tried to troubleshoot what the problem would be. Turning off the interstate that became apparent, the power steering was gone. My WJ has a fan which is powered by the power steering pump which explains why it began to run hot. Lets just say we had an epic experience fixing this problem in the ghetto side of Denver. We made it to an Advance which had a power steering pump and pulley puller kit. The pump came off easy enough. It would have been easier if we all worked on the Jeep but I need to emphasize here this was the rough side of Denver apparently. I understand you guys in CO like your weed, but I didn't envision drug dealers meeting people in the parking lot of Advance Auto. Well things continued with the power steering. The pulley puller ripped the lip off the pulley so I couldn't remove it from the old pump and put it on the new. Advance didn't have a pulley, and Napa was closed. Great! I located the source of the leak on the pump, the high pressure outlet was loose. I tightened it up and thought it would fix it but alas, it did not. We would spend the rest of the night stopping every two hours and adding fluid. Luckily Oklahoma is straight and flat. The next morning in Booneville Missouri we would find ourselves in a Napa parking lot, finally replacing the pump with a new one and a new pulley. I rolled back home at about 3AM on the 23rd. Poor Dad was at work that next same day.