SpecE450 - Red Cross ERV turned Racecar Tow Rig

[19Spec3]

This thread will document my build of a retired Red Cross ERV into a racecar tow vehicle and trackside camper. I race in a series called NASA Spec3 and want a vehicle that will tow my racecar and provide a decently comfy place to sleep in the paddock. The racetracks I frequent have shore power, bathrooms, and showers so I don't need much in the camper itself. A shore power hook-up, air conditioning, and a mattress is about all I need. I also intend to transport dirty motors and stuff in the back so my interior will stay fairly utilitarian compared to other builds.

Why SpecE450? See, it's a play on words. It's funny -- you'll laugh. It just requires like seventeen sentences to explain. BMW names each chassis they build. For like 40 years, all of the 3-series chassis were E-something. E30, then E36, then E46, then E90 then some other non-E garbage. BMW's are very popular racecars. So much so, that there is a Spec series for many BMW chassis. A "spec" series means that everybody races the same car, same suspension, same motor, same tires, same brakes, etc. Though the naming of my particular racing series is a bit off (Spec3), most of them are Spec-E30, Spec-E36, Spec-E46, etc. If this van were entered into such a racing series, it might be called Spec-E450. Get it!?!?!?! I know, supremely clever. The best jokes require lengthy explanation.

Anywho, all threads are worthless without pics, so below are some of the day my girlfriend and I brought it home. I bought it sight unseen on Ebay because it was so damned cheap. $5,100 and only a short drive (6.5 hours each way) to Utica, NY from my place near Washington DC. Not only was it a great deal, the drive was a fun adventure.

 

[19Spec3]

First project. Because this thing is meant to tow a racecar, it needs a tow hitch. Most websites will tell you that there is nothing off-the-shelf for an ambulance so you need to order a sorta DIY hitch that will be welded to each frame-rail. Dumb. I decided to find a hitch that will bolt onto the frame because I'm unwilling to pay somebody to custom weld a solution. Turns out that the Draw-Tite 41906 is the perfect width and (after I drilled 6 holes in the frame) bolts right up. It's a 2" hitch rated at 10,000 lbs or 12,000 lbs with weight distribution.

Here's the rear end as it came from Wheeled Coach with the addition of the black license plate holder. The rear step and some supports behind it will need to be deleted.


Offering up the hitch. The rear step and bumper are removed. That lower horizontal bar will need to be cut out to make room for the hitch.


Lower horizontal bar removed and drilling 6 holes in the frame to install the hitch. My triceps were toast after about 3/4 of one hole so I used the jack to apply upward pressure.


Rear hitch fully bolted into place:


One side of the hitch bolts with huge washers:


I cut the rear bumper in half and reinstalled the (now separated) two halves. I also notched the rear fascia to make room for the hitch:

 

[eporter]

I’m loving all the ERV builds, looks like you’ve got a great race support rig in the works. Looks fairly rust free for Utica. I spent some years in salt-encrusted Syracuse. Did the ERV live a sheltered life? Interesting cuts on the rear fascia. Going for an aero look?

 

[19Spec3]

I’m loving all the ERV builds, looks like you’ve got a great race support rig in the works. Looks fairly rust free for Utica. I spent some years in salt-encrusted Syracuse. Did the ERV live a sheltered life? Interesting cuts on the rear fascia. Going for an aero look?

The van spent most of its life in North and South Dakota but made disaster relief trips for hurricanes and the like. I know it was in NJ for Sandy and I'm sure it went to many other locations. In any event, the undercarriage has only minor surface rust -- it's really nice under there.

I cut the rear fascia mostly because it no longer had anything to screw into in the middle-bottom area. If that whole bottom portion was not affixed, it would rattle like crazy. I also don't mind how it turned out aesthetically and it probably lets some trapped air escape out the back.

 

[19Spec3]

I suppose as part of this introduction, I should include some info about the racecar this ERV will pull around the Mid-Atlantic. I compete in a series called NASA Spec3. Mine is a 1995 BMW 325i with a whopping 195 horsepower at the wheels. I compete against other cars that are basically identical. Same motor, tires, suspension, brakes, weight, etc. For more info on the racing series, go here: https://spec3.nasaseries.com/. Below are pictures of how it looked at the beginning of last season.





I crashed it near the end of last season:


But it's repaired now, just needs paint and vinyl:

 

[19Spec3]

Actual 1st project that I forgot about: Front end overhaul. The ERV pulled to the left and the steering wheel shook all over the place at highway speed. The 6.5 hour drive home was fairly white knuckle. Luckily, the ball joints at the hubs and the control arms looked pretty new. The various steering linkages, however, looked terrible:







In with the new stuff:


With the new steering parts and a front-end alignment, the ERV now drives pretty well. It's no sports car but it's predictable and no longer terrifying at highway speeds. Win!

 

[ujoint]

Nice! We're just finishing up a big build on one of these.

 

[19Spec3]

Nice! We're just finishing up a big build on one of these.

A 4x4 conversion would be hella cool but hard to justify for my pavement-loving ERV. If you want space and heavy duty capability, these are a great platform and I suspect we'll see many builds as the Red Cross transitions to more fuel efficient Sprinter-type vans. Post up some pics! It's always interesting to see another approach to the build-out.

 

[19Spec3]

It's the little things that make a big difference. When Wheeled Coach built it, this truck had a bunch of switches where the cupholders would normally go. To remedy this, they installed two flimsy fold-down cupholders on the side of the doghouse extension. Those were long broken when I bought the SpecE450. I forgot to take a "before" picture but below is the switch panel -- taking up all of the space for the stock cupholders. Note all of the wasted space.



I made a trip to the junkyard and bought a used doghouse extension. Then I cut down the switch panel and attached it to the front of the new doghouse extension. That entailed disconnecting and reconnecting every switch -- which took forever and was terrible. Finally, I drilled some holes for the ampmeter and the three door/compartment/battery lights. Voila, I have cupholders:





You'll also note that I installed a trailer brake controller and that all of the necessary wiring is present and functional for trailer brakes. The brake controller had a plug up front and the blue and orange wires ran all the way to the back bundle near the taillights. I have since plugged in a 7-way trailer harness and everything is functional. Score!

 

[19Spec3]

More fairly minor upgrades:

The rear lights were quite dim so I upgraded to LED. These brake/turn/reverse lights from SuperBrightLEDs are plug-and-play. They use the same wiring connector and fit into the existing rubber grommets. They're about 1000% brighter and also modernize the rear end a bit.


The rear flashers were barely visible during the day so I upgraded to these white/amber flashers, also from SuperBrightLEDs. You'll also note a rear-view camera.


I installed a cheapo rear-view camera from Amazon that I'm pretty pleased with. It's hard-wired to a switch so I run it constantly while driving. The monitor is mounted to the windshield using this mounting arm from Rear View Safety.


Dog is ready for glamping.

 

[19Spec3]

In my continuing efforts to make the cab a nicer place to be, I installed a bunch of Killmat on the doghouse and floor. I'm waiting on new carpet with 45 mil. mass backing to arrive which will also help to dampen noise and heat.









Then I went a little nuts and decided it was time to add some recline room for the seats. I will probably open the passenger side entirely but I'm still not sure how I'll button up the driver side.

 

[PlethoraOfGuns]

Using the floor jack on the drill for upwards pressure is a great idea! I'm adding that one into my toolbox of tricks!

 

[19Spec3]

Using the floor jack on the drill for upwards pressure is a great idea! I'm adding that one into my toolbox of tricks!

Wish I could claim I came up with it -- stole the idea from some YouTube video.

 

[Bikersmurf]

It's the little things that make a big difference. When Wheeled Coach built it, this truck had a bunch of switches where the cupholders would normally go. To remedy this, they installed two flimsy fold-down cupholders on the side of the doghouse extension. Those were long broken when I bought the SpecE450. I forgot to take a "before" picture but below is the switch panel -- taking up all of the space for the stock cupholders. Note all of the wasted space.
View attachment 612110


I made a trip to the junkyard and bought a used doghouse extension. Then I cut down the switch panel and attached it to the front of the new doghouse extension. That entailed disconnecting and reconnecting every switch -- which took forever and was terrible. Finally, I drilled some holes for the ampmeter and the three door/compartment/battery lights. Voila, I have cupholders:

View attachment 612112

View attachment 612113

You'll also note that I installed a trailer brake controller and that all of the necessary wiring is present and functional for trailer brakes. The brake controller had a plug up front and the blue and orange wires ran all the way to the back bundle near the taillights. I have since plugged in a 7-way trailer harness and everything is functional. Score!

Clever. I’d not considered mouthing the ambulance switches to the factory console / cup-holder, I’ll keep it on

 

[19Spec3]

Carpet with mass vinyl backing trimmed and installed:



Removed the wood and aluminum behind the passenger seat to allow more leg room and recline:




Driver seat reinstalled with about 2-3 inches of additional recline:


The addition of carpet and killmat made a huge noise difference. It went from annoyingly loud around town and yelling at highway speeds to pretty comfortable around town and only slightly loud at highway speeds. We can actually have a conversation even at 65+. I plan to add some killmat to the ceiling and doors but probably not a layer of 100% coverage like I did with the doghouse and floor.

The additional recline room makes an enormous difference in comfort for both seats. Just the 2-3 inches gained on the driver side are enough to allow a comfortable driving position. I actually don't even use all of the space and I'm 6'2". Eventually, I will install a swivel seat on the passenger side. With these projects complete, I think I could comfortably drive this rig for 5+ hours to the racetracks I frequent. That idea was exhausting in the Ambo's original form.

The next project will depend on what I can find cheap on Craigslist / Facebook Marketplace. I'm always on the lookout for cheap / used vinyl plank flooring, RV awning, RV entry door, foam insulation, and a window A/C unit.