Advice needed on choosing the right snow chains

[ser3nitynow11]

Hello,
I am driving from Los Angeles to Chicago at the beginning of January and I should probably get some snow chains... I have a 2018 Toyota Highlander Hybrid XLE AWD with standard P245/60R18 tires.
I will be doing mostly Highway driving, but I do plan on camping each night in BLM and National Forrest areas that aren't too far off of the highways, so I will be traveling on dirt or gravel roads periodically if the weather isn't too bad. I decided to play it as safe as I can by taking a more southern route through AZ and NM instead of CO or WY, but I definitely don't want to find myself in a situation where I either get caught in a snow storm on the highway, or wake up to snow on the ground in the wilderness, thus finding myself stuck there with inadequate or no snow chains!

Do I need chains for all 4 tires in an AWD vehicle, or are 2 enough? Also, if I only need 2, should I put them on the front tires or the back?

Any information and advice on snow chains would be much appreciated! If anybody has suggestions on good snow chain brands and cheap, but decent recovery boards that I should look into, I would also love to hear about those as well. Thank everyone!!!

 

[Alloy]

I use 2 types of chains.

2 sets (4 wheels) of the 3.5mm shown below for use on highways with ice/compact snow. Both sets are only used when towing. Being lighter they can be run faster as well as being much easier to put on.

https://www.qccanada.com/uploads/1/3/0/6/130628742/published/4-navigator-square-link-alloy_1.png

1 set of these below for deep snow / breaking trail. Didn't like the bounce due to the spacing (regular duty) of the chains so I've doubled up (double duty) on the cross chains.

https://www.qccanada.com/uploads/1/3/0/6/130628742/published/7-pathfinder-canadian-spec-v-bar_1.png

For the V bar chains I carry spare parts an chain pliers.

https://www.gpbikes.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1309eb7f960f2391abf03c1375568a36/w/e/web-600-914-914000_17.jpg

I carry a pile of bunji cords to tension the chains....there can never be too much tension. Loose chains make more noise so it is harder to hear if something is broken.

Make sure to test fit and practice before hitting the road.

 

[ser3nitynow11]

Does anybody have experience with the Konig XB-16? I'll have to double-check the tire clearance on my car, but etrailer.com and the manufacturer websites both state that the 250's will fit. etrailer.com's description says that they work on and off-road....

• https://www.etrailer.com/Tire-Chains/Toyota/Highlander/2018/TH01571250.html?VehicleID=20181439520

 

[ser3nitynow11]

I use 2 types of chains.

2 sets (4 wheels) of the 3.5mm shown below for use on highways with ice/compact snow. Both sets are only used when towing. Being lighter they can be run faster as well as being much easier to put on.

https://www.qccanada.com/uploads/1/3/0/6/130628742/published/4-navigator-square-link-alloy_1.png

1 set of these below for deep snow / breaking trail. Didn't like the bounce due to the spacing (regular duty) of the chains so I've doubled up (double duty) on the cross chains.

https://www.qccanada.com/uploads/1/3/0/6/130628742/published/7-pathfinder-canadian-spec-v-bar_1.png

For the V bar chains I carry spare parts an chain pliers.

https://www.gpbikes.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1309eb7f960f2391abf03c1375568a36/w/e/web-600-914-914000_17.jpg

I carry a pile of bunji cords to tension the chains....there can never be too much tension. Loose chains make more noise so it is harder to hear if something is broken.

Make sure to test fit and practice before hitting the road.

Thank you!

 

[DaveInDenver]

Check the owner's manual, it'll tell you what you should do. My guess is running just one set and they'd go on the front wheels. Toyota may even suggest not doing rear tires at all. With the way all-wheel drive and traction control works having all 4 tires chained may cause issues.

For your trip I'd keep it simple. If it seems like you're pushing the limits on a forest service road then stop. You're trying to get from LA to Chicago not explore the side country mountains in the winter. Every winter we get people following GPS and ending up lost or stuck for days in the snow. In a snow storm sound is silenced, your vehicle is covered and a person 1/4 mile away would never know you're there. Couple that with no cell signal and you're gonna be walking back to a highway for help.

I run standard duty 6mm twisted link on my truck, all four tires. But for your use I think this would be overkill. They're heavy and take up a lot of space, not really necessary for primarily highway use on a passenger car like the old days. I have a process to get them on and off quickly but I've been doing it for 35 years.



For our old car, a plain 2WD Jetta, we had Thule CB12 cable chains and they did everything we needed them to. Obviously didn't take the car off improved roads, though. Thule is now Konig I think. I like these chains. Easy to install and remove and they stay tight. Obviously front only on this car.



For our Forester I went with the Security Chain Z6 cable chains. They're alright, do the job fine. They are the lowest profile chain or cable I could find, there's not a lot of space under the front of the car (run them front only on it, too). The main reason I have them is going from snow and ice to pavement is a bit more comfortable with these compared to chains. Haven't needed real chains, the main function of these for us is use on hard packed snow and ice on secondary roads accessing backcountry ski trailheads if for some reason we don't take my truck (like a need for passengers). In regular Colorado snow the AWD does fine.

 

[1stDeuce]

Thank you!

I use a set of Peerless chains that look exactly like that on my plow truck occasionally. Those type of chains are much easier to install than laddar style chains, and IMO they work far better. Practice installing them a few times before you leave so you aren't doing it for the first time in really crappy conditions. The low profile chain means they ride smooth and won't rip off fender liners or mudflaps, and they still work extremely well for icy or packed snow conditions, which is what you are most likely to encounter.

My $0.02 would be that your money is far better spent on a new set of good tires. I would highly recommend the Toyo Celcius as a great choice. I put a set on our first gen CR-V AWD and it was literally unstoppable in any conditions, and far more stable down the road than it was with fairly worn "all season" tires. The best way I can describe them is a winter tread pattern with an all season rubber compound. You can run them year around, and they have a 50 or 60k treadwear rating. They do make a little noise, but most new cars are so well soundproofed that you're unlikely to be bothered. For the ~$180 a set of chains would cost you, you are half way to a set of good tires, and good tires will work for you all the time, not just when you chain up. With AWD and good tires, you are very unlikely to even need chains. Winter capable tires are going to be useful in ANY driving you do along the way, not just when you encounter deep snow or ice and use the chains.

Another thought... If you do plan to get off the beaten path a little, do familiarize yourself with how to disable traction control. While it keeps you safe and stable on road, it often keeps you from generating the wheel slip necessary to traverse sandy, snow, or muddy conditions offroad.

Have a good trip!!

 

[BlindingWhiteTaco]

Studless snow tires and a set of the Z6 cable chains on the front wheels if needed. I don’t think the Toyota AWD system in a Highlander is true full time AWD, so I wouldn’t count on it for much. It’s primarily a FWD vehicle.

Whatever you decide on for chains, make sure they can be installed without moving the vehicle.

 

[ser3nitynow11]

Check the owner's manual, it'll tell you what you should do. My guess is running just one set and they'd go on the front wheels. Toyota may even suggest not doing rear tires at all. With the way all-wheel drive and traction control works having all 4 tires chained may cause issues.

For your trip I'd keep it simple. If it seems like you're pushing the limits on a forest service road then stop. You're trying to get from LA to Chicago not explore the side country mountains in the winter. Every winter we get people following GPS and ending up lost or stuck for days in the snow. In a snow storm sound is silenced, your vehicle is covered and a person 1/4 mile away would never know you're there. Couple that with no cell signal and you're gonna be walking back to a highway for help.

I run standard duty 6mm twisted link on my truck, all four tires. But for your use I think this would be overkill. They're heavy and take up a lot of space, not really necessary for primarily highway use on a passenger car like the old days. I have a process to get them on and off quickly but I've been doing it for 35 years.

View attachment 629893

For our old car, a plain 2WD Jetta, we had Thule CB12 cable chains and they did everything we needed them to. Obviously didn't take the car off improved roads, though. Thule is now Konig I think. I like these chains. Easy to install and remove and they stay tight. Obviously front only on this car.

View attachment 629894

For our Forester I went with the Security Chain Z6 cable chains. They're alright, do the job fine. They are the lowest profile chain or cable I could find, there's not a lot of space under the front of the car (run them front only on it, too). The main reason I have them is going from snow and ice to pavement is a bit more comfortable with these compared to chains. Haven't needed real chains, the main function of these for us is use on hard packed snow and ice on secondary roads accessing backcountry ski trailheads if for some reason we don't take my truck (like a need for passengers). In regular Colorado snow the AWD does fine.

View attachment 629895

Thank you for all of the information. I'm liking the Konig (Thule) XB-16's so far.... I am definitely not going to be taking any risks for this trip, and will have several backup plans in place if something doesn't work out. I am going to call the appropriate local land management agencies each day to get information on road/weather conditions and closures for the places I plan to camp in, and will also be bringing printed area maps as well. I'll be giving myself ample daylight hours upon arrival too, so that I won't be driving to my campsites at night, and giving me the option to head elsewhere if the roads are too bad or the weather turns poor. Plus, the campsites I am looking into are all close to the highway and/or paved roads, and I will be bringing tire repair supplies, recovery boards, gas, and lots of extra food/water. I agree that pushing things too far is a stupid idea, and I don't want to be that idiot who gets into a dangerous situation because I decided to trek into the wilderness completely unprepared! Lol

 

[ser3nitynow11]

I use a set of Peerless chains that look exactly like that on my plow truck occasionally. Those type of chains are much easier to install than laddar style chains, and IMO they work far better. Practice installing them a few times before you leave so you aren't doing it for the first time in really crappy conditions. The low profile chain means they ride smooth and won't rip off fender liners or mudflaps, and they still work extremely well for icy or packed snow conditions, which is what you are most likely to encounter.

My $0.02 would be that your money is far better spent on a new set of good tires. I would highly recommend the Toyo Celcius as a great choice. I put a set on our first gen CR-V AWD and it was literally unstoppable in any conditions, and far more stable down the road than it was with fairly worn "all season" tires. The best way I can describe them is a winter tread pattern with an all season rubber compound. You can run them year around, and they have a 50 or 60k treadwear rating. They do make a little noise, but most new cars are so well soundproofed that you're unlikely to be bothered. For the ~$180 a set of chains would cost you, you are half way to a set of good tires, and good tires will work for you all the time, not just when you chain up. With AWD and good tires, you are very unlikely to even need chains. Winter capable tires are going to be useful in ANY driving you do along the way, not just when you encounter deep snow or ice and use the chains.

Another thought... If you do plan to get off the beaten path a little, do familiarize yourself with how to disable traction control. While it keeps you safe and stable on road, it often keeps you from generating the wheel slip necessary to traverse sandy, snow, or muddy conditions offroad.

Have a good trip!!

Darn! The Toyo's look like great tires, but they don't fit my car. New tires is a good idea, but the tires I have are not even 2 years old yet... They are Bridgestone Dueler H/L 422 Ecopia's... Not the worse tires to have at least, but since I live in LA, I don't do much winter driving. I may get some good all terrain tires once I really start going on more difficult overlanding trips though.

 

[BlindingWhiteTaco]

I have good all terrain tires on my Silverado. If it’s snowing in town we take my wife’s Civic with Michelin X-ice winter tires. Night and day difference. Four snow tires cost less than my deductible.

 

[ser3nitynow11]

Score!... I just bought a pair of Konig XB-16 250's off of Amazon for $80 after shipping and taxes. I made sure to stay away from 3rd party vendors and bought them straight from Amazon Global Store UK, who gets their products directly from the manufacturer, so I know that they aren't counterfeit. The chains were listed at $130, but they marked their last pair in stock down to $62.07 today, so I snagged them up right away!

 

[roving1]

Be careful with the thin alloy chain on anything other then packed snow. If you are breaking trail or spinning under a load it's super easy to break those chains. They just are not up to the shock loading of spinning tires and losing and gaining traction.

 

[ser3nitynow11]

Be careful with the thin alloy chain on anything other then packed snow. If you are breaking trail or spinning under a load it's super easy to break those chains. They just are not up to the shock loading of spinning tires and losing and gaining traction.

Thanks for the advice. Hopefully I won't have to use them. I mostly want them in case the highways/paved roads get so bad that it requires chains, but I'll definitely take your advice by being extra careful not to spin them.... If I find myself traveling on an unpaved road towards an area that I want to camp in, and the road conditions are poor, I'm just going to turn around and go elsewhere. I'll have traction boards as a backup in case I get stuck so that I don't have to rely on the chains to get me out

 

[Mickey Bitsko]

Hello,
I am driving from Los Angeles to Chicago at the beginning of January and I should probably get some snow chains... I have a 2018 Toyota Highlander Hybrid XLE AWD with standard P245/60R18 tires.
I will be doing mostly Highway driving, but I do plan on camping each night in BLM and National Forrest areas that aren't too far off of the highways, so I will be traveling on dirt or gravel roads periodically if the weather isn't too bad. I decided to play it as safe as I can by taking a more southern route through AZ and NM instead of CO or WY, but I definitely don't want to find myself in a situation where I either get caught in a snow storm on the highway, or wake up to snow on the ground in the wilderness, thus finding myself stuck there with inadequate or no snow chains!

Do I need chains for all 4 tires in an AWD vehicle, or are 2 enough? Also, if I only need 2, should I put them on the front tires or the back?

Any information and advice on snow chains would be much appreciated! If anybody has suggestions on good snow chain brands and cheap, but decent recovery boards that I should look into, I would also love to hear about those as well. Thank everyone!!!

Just a thought, contact a TIRE chain shop and get expert advice on the make and model of your vehicle. It's possible the vehicle manufacturer does not recommend chains or cables.
And WHEN/IF you have a issue/problem you can go to the source.
It's possible your type of vehicle not recommend CHAINS .

 

[1stDeuce]

FWIW, the only place that the highway could become "so bad" that chains are required is over few passes in Colorado. When highways in WY, NE, IA, etc get that bad, they simply close them. At that point, even with chains, you're not actually making enough forward progress to make it worth your time. Grab a hotel and get some sleep. It'll be clear in the morning.

Also, I use pretty thin alloy chains on my plow truck now. I got rid of V-bar laddar chains that were effective but rough. I have yet to break one, and I probably have a thousand miles of plowing on them at this point. I don't drive like I'm in a TV commercial though...

Sound like you got a good deal on a nice set of chains!!
Hope your trip goes well!!