2005 Tundra novice build - "The Rez"

[DzlToy]

Interco offers an SSR in 35x10.50R16, but this is an old design. Kenda offers a Rough Terrain in
35x10.50R17 and those are the only two I can find. Unless clearance is a majour issue, I would rather have the much more popular 35 x 12.50 or the metric equivalent, nominally 315/70R17 or 315/75R16.

 

[skywhitney]

I know it's been a little while since you last updated, but how is everything going with the Tundra?

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

 

[Kpack]

I know it's been a little while since you last updated, but how is everything going with the Tundra?

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

I haven't had much time to work on the truck, and I didn't take it out wheeling at all last year. Just too busy. My free time was taken up by other projects, including a '54 Packard that I'm restoring. It looks nice from about 30 ft if you squint your eyes. I have much more to do before it's complete.


But now my attention is turning back to the truck and I've started to take care of some maintenance that is needed. I failed to put Fluid Film on before the last two winters and paid for it with surface rust everywhere. They put some nasty stuff on the roads here. So I got started with cleaning it all off, applying Ospho to neutralize anything that might be left, and then painting for protection. Fluid Film will for sure be going on in the Fall. I've completed the rear of the truck, and now need to move to the center, sliders, and front.

Used the kit that Toyota uses to clean out the A/C evaporator that was starting to smell nasty. Now it's all fresh and clean.

Next up is fluid changes in the transfer case and front diff, transmission drain and fill (at least once, probably more...or complete fluid replacement). Then some preventative maintenance on the front end. For sure need to replace the uniballs in my Camburg arms, possibly do the tie rods ends and LBJ's for peace of mind. They were last changed about 50k miles ago and the truck has seen some action since then. I'm wanting to hit all the potential failure points before wheeling season in June.

Driver's rear axle is possibly still leaking. This is the third seal, and the entire axle assembly/backing plate/bearing/etc were replaced with OEM with no success. I'm just driving it until I work up enough willpower to attempt it again. I had a shop replace it twice and I did it once. No luck so far.

 

[skywhitney]

I like the Packard. Looks like a great project.

Sounds like we're in similar situations with the trucks and maintenance issues. I just relocated to the east coast a couple years ago and the winters out here have been rough to the truck.

Living in the southwest previously, rust was never something I had to deal with. Before this thread I had never heard of Fluid Film. I have some arriving tomorrow. Can't say I'm really looking forward to the smell but I am looking forward to the protection.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

 

[Kpack]

I finally had some time to do some needed maintenance on the Rez. The past two years I've been so busy with other things that I haven't used the truck for anything besides daily driving and towing. And I haven't done any maintenance besides the normal oil changes. The front needed some love to tighten everything up again and make the truck safe for the trails.


The uniballs on my Camburg UCA's were in desperate need of replacement. They are recommended to be replaced at 15k miles, and I'm well over twice that. The balls themselves were not making noise, but were visibly corroded and likely had some play in them. I ordered new balls from Camburg and a uniball tool from Total Chaos. The TC tool was amazing. I highly recommend that anyone running uniballs get one of the tools. Pricey but worth every penny. It makes it so the uniballs can be changed while the UCA is on the truck. It makes the job take just minutes.

I found that some pretty heavy duty snap ring pliers are needed for the snap rings on the Camburg arms. I tried the generic ones and all they did was bend. I spent $50 on a nice set of pliers and that made all the difference.



The outer tie rods were replaced probably 40k miles ago. No visible play or signs of failure, but they have been through a lot so I wanted to start fresh. I was not sure when the inner tie rods were last replaced. So new inner and outer tie rods were done. Not OEM, but I had good success with the ones that were on there already, which were all Moog parts. The inner tie rods that were on there were both fairly loose....not terrible, but definitely no longer stiff. The outer tie rods had no resistance on the bolt end. So I'm glad I replaced all that.

I cleaned up the surface corrosion on the coilovers and coated with some spray for protection. I'm going to pick up some Mavcoat and hit all the suspension components with that to keep them somewhat fresh.

Truck is getting a fresh alignment in two days. Next on my list is replace outer boots on front CV axles, replace fluid in front diff and transfer case, and transmission drain and fill. At that point I should be ready for 4x4 trails when they open June 15th.

 

[Kpack]

Alignment is done and the truck feels amazing. I guess I didn't realize how loose things actually were....I must have gotten used to it as it slowly happened. Camber and toe were set close to the center of the spec range, and caster was pushed out to 3.2. The steering is excellent...tight, stiff, no wiggling or vibrations at all, extremely confident on bumps, etc. I wish I should have done this maintenance much sooner.

It appears my alternator is getting ready to fail. Digital readout shows fluctuating voltages from 13.9 at the high end to occasional dips to below 12. Typically it's sitting at just over 13. In the past it's normally consistently at 13.9. So I'll get one ordered and make the swap. 230K miles on the original alternator is pretty good.

 

[smokeysevin]

When you do the alternator, soak the bolts in PB Blaster before attempting it. I had one break off in the block and ended up having to drill it out which did not go well and is why there is a random 9/16" bolt and nut on my motor...

Sean

 

[Kpack]

When you do the alternator, soak the bolts in PB Blaster before attempting it. I had one break off in the block and ended up having to drill it out which did not go well and is why there is a random 9/16" bolt and nut on my motor...

Sean

Good advice. I'm cautiously optimistic that it won't be bad, but most other bolts that I've taken off for the first time were a nightmare, so....

Everything that I take off goes back on with anti-seize. Makes maintenance so much easier.

 

[Kpack]

My truck has been making a semi-random "snap" or "clunk" when turning from stationary....like when reversing. Much on the front is new (Camburg uniballs, inner and outer tie rods). LBJ's are Toyota and have between 50-60k on them. LCA bushings were replaced about 50k ago, same with rack bushings.

I thought maybe LBJ's, but no movement noted when I pushed up against the tire. So, not sure what is causing it.

Passenger CV outer boot tore last week, spraying grease everywhere. Both fronts are CVJ Remans from OEM. High angle inner and neoprene outer. Around 40-50k miles them. I pulled the axle with the intention of replacing the outer boot, but found that both joints of the axle are floppy, not tight like they would be when new. Does the looseness alone warrant replacement? CVJ Remans are crazy expensive now.

 

[smokeysevin]

My truck has been making a semi-random "snap" or "clunk" when turning from stationary....like when reversing. Much on the front is new (Camburg uniballs, inner and outer tie rods). LBJ's are Toyota and have between 50-60k on them. LCA bushings were replaced about 50k ago, same with rack bushings.

I thought maybe LBJ's, but no movement noted when I pushed up against the tire. So, not sure what is causing it.

Passenger CV outer boot tore last week, spraying grease everywhere. Both fronts are CVJ Remans from OEM. High angle inner and neoprene outer. Around 40-50k miles them. I pulled the axle with the intention of replacing the outer boot, but found that both joints of the axle are floppy, not tight like they would be when new. Does the looseness alone warrant replacement? CVJ Remans are crazy expensive now.View attachment 810356

There is an oem toyota reman part number floating around somewhere, I think it was like $200 or something. I just checked on my two online parts places and they are no longer listed.

Sean

 

[Kpack]

Finally got all the parts together and rebuilt the axle. Even repainted the green that CVJ does with their axles. Easy to rebuild, just needed the correct tool to crimp. New boot on the outer (much better than what was on there) and reused the high angle inner boot. So far so good. Driver's side is next. Just to get more clamps.

Refilled the diff and retorqued the steering rack while I was under the truck. One of the bolts needed a lot of tightening. That might have been some of popping I've heard while turning slow.

 

[Dmski]

Been meaning to post over in here for a while but hope the truck is still alive and kicking. I was looking at 100 series, sequoias and tundras from the same era for the simplicity and size, and wondered if you still enjoyed the size on northwest trails? Also, how is power for towing if you still do this from time to time? Considering a smaller travel trailer for the family and a good reliable platform with a smaller footprint is the goal.

 

[Kpack]

Glad you asked! The truck is still doing fine, pushing 250K miles right now. It needs some attention....brakes, clean up and paint the frame again, replace headlights (aftermarket lenses keep turning yellow), and replace all the speakers (only one door woofer works now). Besides normal maintenance, the only other thing I've done to it recently is the Hewitt-tech SAIS delete kit. Truck threw a SAIS code a few months ago, then never again. To be safe I installed the kit to disable the SAIS system. If anyone installs this kit, do not follow what the videos on YouTube say. Just follow Hewitt-tech's instructions and it's super easy. Take off the front wheels and the splash panel at the rear of the wheel wells. The bolts for the block off plates are right there in front of you and super easy to access. All the YouTube videos have guys reaching at awkward angles by hand feel only. Don't listen to them.

Size on PNW trails is a bit big, but it works. More 3 point turns than smaller rigs. Sliders are a must. Longer wheelbase means it scrapes on more things, and the sliders are necessary to get around tight trees sometimes. A 1st gen Sequoia would be shorter and more maneuverable. But I need the open bed of the truck, so that's why I keep it.

Power for towing is fine depending on what you are towing. I'm still running stock 3.91 gears on 33" tires so I loose some power. And I have a bit of an issue with overheating when towing 5-6k pounds uphill. Haven't been able to track down where that is coming from. Towing smaller loads is no problem. Fuel mileage when towing is terrible, lol. Like 6-7 mpg. The longer wheelbase of the Tundra makes towing a bit safer than the shorter Sequoia. We tow a lot with my wife's 2nd Gen Sequoia, and the 5.7L tows great, but the short wheelbase makes things a little more interesting.

Actually got the truck out on some trails this year. I never want to get rid of it.