Fixing rear sway??

[NVLOC]

You're in a tough spot. No aftermarket bumper and you travel loaded and unloaded often.

*863 LOADED will net you 3" lift. A bit higher and stiffer when unloaded.

*Slee's new springs will result in less lift though adding a trim pack to it almost negates the reason to buy Slee-brand.

I'd suggest a compromise....when it's time to get an aligment next...I'd throw in the 863's AND at that time raise your front end about 1/2" to better match up. I think you'll be happy with the look, the rear will be a tad stiff unloaded though just right loaded. Best compromise for you in my opinion. Then get that alignment.

Thank you for the advice.
I don't mind the "back high" stance visually. Right now, its the opposite. The rear sags and is slightly lower than the front when packed.
Clearance becomes more of an issue then, which is already not great with a stock bumper.
I believe would rather keep my front end where it is for CV angle purposes. Right now, boots are already seeping from inner CV joint.

I'd rather have a harsher ride unloaded and a proper/firm feel when loaded. Besides, the longer drives I take are always with a loaded vehicle, so "comfort" on long distances would be a non issue. I think the 863's are a good call all-around.

*thread hijack over*

 

[alexrex20]

With the RTT its gets worse. But not that much.

After a LONG talk with ARB yesterday I've come to the conclusion that its definitely the shocks. Pulled off the passenger rear and it took way to long to recover from full compression, which leads me to the ARB guys....totally AWSOME:wings:

These guys are going above an beyond what I was expecting. They are going to warranty one of the shocks and give me a killer deal on the new Sport Shock!!!!!!!!

In regards to the rear spring I have Slee's equivalent to the 863 (not the J's). So unless I want a stink bug look, which I think I'll get from the 863 J's then I'm good on the springs.

Thanks Spress for all the help.

the shock only dampens oscillations. shocks aren't supposed to support any weight, so they don't. they are allowed to take a long time to fully extend.

body sway is suspicious of weak coils and/or weak sway bar (also technically a spring). if your rear sway does not hinder rear flex, then it sounds like the sway bar isn't doing much good back there anyway. if it were me, i'd get the HD coils and give up some ride quality in favor of safety and handling.

 

[Ruffin' It]

Just to throw it out there, tire pressures are really important too - especially with high-sidewall tires. What pressures are you running front/rear? If you are adding 500 lbs of gear and not increasing pressure 10 lbs (or more) in the rear, that could do it. I'd load up and bump up to the max pressure in the rear and give that a shot. The easy way to think about it is that you are going for an equal foot print at each tire. So, if you have added a lot more weight in the rear, you want to add pressure to equalize the foot print with the front.

Just a thought

 

[wesel123]

the shock only dampens oscillations. shocks aren't supposed to support any weight, so they don't. they are allowed to take a long time to fully extend.

body sway is suspicious of weak coils and/or weak sway bar (also technically a spring). if your rear sway does not hinder rear flex, then it sounds like the sway bar isn't doing much good back there anyway. if it were me, I'd get the HD coils and give up some ride quality in favor of safety and handling.

I already have Slee's heavy spring. The consensus from both Slee and ARB is the shocks are done. If the sway still exist after the new shocks are installed, I'll change out the sway bar (all though I quite honestly have never heard of sway bars going bad, but you never know)

Thanks for the thought. It'll be the first thing I check after the new shocks.

Oh yea tire pressure was the first thing I checked. I'm running 295's BFG AT's in a D range and am running 50psi (55 max cold).

 

[ShottsCruisers]

I already have Slee's heavy spring. The consensus from both Slee and ARB is the shocks are done. If the sway still exist after the new shocks are installed, I'll change out the sway bar (all though I quite honestly have never heard of sway bars going bad, but you never know)

Thanks for the thought. It'll be the first thing I check after the new shocks.

Oh yea tire pressure was the first thing I checked. I'm running 295's BFG AT's in a D range and am running 50psi (55 max cold).

Hmmm, I thought I read twice that you had Slee's Medium spring. OK, now I read Heavy. I think a heavy spring is ideal for you and NVLOC. If you do have heavies then maybe it is your shock. Has nothing to do with your sway bar unless it's busted. I also doubt Medium springs with new shocks will solve the problem however you now posted you have heavy's so who knows.

 

[78Bronco]

If you are parked can you induce the sway by grabbing the rear bumper and push pull.

I don't think new shocks are going to help you it sounds more like you need the trac-bar addressed.

I hate progressive rate coils because the soft side is too soft.

 

[ShottsCruisers]

if your rear sway does not hinder rear flex, then it sounds like the sway bar isn't doing much good back there anyway.

Not the case on the 80 and 100-Series Cruisers. The suspensions are designed this way. From 1991-2007 the suspensions can be fully articulated with the SB connected. If you remove it you will feel A LOT of sway. It does it's job and there are no aftermarket sways out there as they are not needed for 4-wheeling/suspension lifts.

I don't think new shocks are going to help you it sounds more like you need the trac-bar addressed.

Me too on the shocks. But addressing the trac/sway bar is not needed...and there's nothing to address...no aftermarkets. I'm with you...coils too soft. He said in 2 posts they were Slee Med's. Then in one post he said Slee heavies. I'll bet they're mediums.

 

[78Bronco]

Not the case on the 80 and 100-Series Cruisers. The suspensions are designed this way. From 1991-2007 the suspensions can be fully articulated with the SB connected. If you remove it you will feel A LOT of sway. It does it's job and there are no aftermarket sways out there as they are not needed for 4-wheeling/suspension lifts.

There is the currie anti rock system.

Me too on the shocks. But addressing the trac/sway bar is not needed...and there's nothing to address...no aftermarkets. I'm with you...coils too soft. He said in 2 posts they were Slee Med's. Then in one post he said Slee heavies. I'll bet they're mediums.

Looking at the Slee site the coils are progressive 200-440lbs/inch. I'm sure they provide a nice ride but a linear rate spring is better no matter which way you slice it. I have 320lb/inch linear coils in the front of my 78 F150 and these are almost too soft.

 

[ShottsCruisers]

There is the currie anti rock system.

Really? For a 80-100 series Land Cruiser. Where can you find them?

 

[ShottsCruisers]

Looking at the Slee site the coils are progressive 200-440lbs/inch. I'm sure they provide a nice ride but a linear rate spring is better no matter which way you slice it. I have 320lb/inch linear coils in the front of my 78 F150 and these are almost too soft.

OME863 | 3" | 300-500 lbs
SOF2RH | 2" | 300-500 lbs

The "Slee Brand" coils he has are in fact heavies...300-500 pounds. Slee doesn't sell medium "Slee-brand" for the 100. Same rate as the 863. He shouldn't be swaying badly with those. Who knows...maybe his shocks are the culprit.

 

[78Bronco]

Really? For a 80-100 series Land Cruiser. Where can you find them?

They offer a universal system http://www.currieenterprises.com/CESTORE/antirock.aspx that could work. Obviously its not a bolt on system. I'm just throwing the idea out there.

You're right about the springs, I thought I read medium earlier.

I guess we have to wait and see if the new shocks help the sway. I think they may help with roll but not sway. Sway to me describes a lateral side to side motion.

 

[ShottsCruisers]

Oh, gotcha on the Universal setup.

 

[Root Moose]

I guess we have to wait and see if the new shocks help the sway. I think they may help with roll but not sway. Sway to me describes a lateral side to side motion.

It'll probably help. The dampers will damp the motion in transitions therefore the amount of oscillation from side to side in transitions will be damped out (well duh) and make the vehicle feel more stable. With constant lateral G loading the dampers will eventually bottom out like the softer ones but it will take longer to occur. It'll take the "wobble" out of the system.

Sounds to me like there is no magic to the 100 anti-roll bar, it is just a soft rate like the Anti-Rock or Sway-Loc systems.

 

[Fergie]

OME863 | 3" | 300-500 lbs
SOF2RH | 2" | 300-500 lbs

The "Slee Brand" coils he has are in fact heavies...300-500 pounds. Slee doesn't sell medium "Slee-brand" for the 100. Same rate as the 863. He shouldn't be swaying badly with those. Who knows...maybe his shocks are the culprit.

I'd put my money on In and Out as the culprit.

 

[Mlachica]

It'll probably help. The dampers will damp the motion in transitions therefore the amount of oscillation from side to side in transitions will be damped out (well duh) and make the vehicle feel more stable. With constant lateral G loading the dampers will eventually bottom out like the softer ones but it will take longer to occur. It'll take the "wobble" out of the system.

Bingo! This is something I need to address in my 80 as well. My rear passenger side shock squirts oil on compression =) We it used to - it might be empty now

When do you get the new shocks on? And were you at REI in costa mesa on Saturday?