85 110 200TDI build

[morerunner]

I will be starting tomorrow on the build. First some preventive and corrective stuff. Later will come accessories.

Here is a list of parts that I have to install:
-Accessory drive belt
-Timing belt
-Water pump
-Clutch kit, clutch fork and slave cylinder
-LT77 gasket and seal kit
-Transfer box gasket and seal kit
-4 new U-Joints
-Temp flexible fuel lines (until I piece together what is needed for ss braided)
-Ospho rust converter for frame rust
-Fluid change on front/rear diffs

Planned upgrades:
-Rebuild front and rear axles
-Remove capstan winch and bumper and install ARB with electric winch (if anyone is interested in buying it let me know)
-CB radio
-CD player (possibly a marine type with boat speakers just in case )
-Replace drivers door (rusty)
-Replace hood bracing (rusty)
-Find a spare for the hood
-Replace rear door (once again, rusty)
-Newer seats
-Sliders
-Snorkel
-Roof rack
-Small lift with springs rated for heavier loads
-New tires
-Make storage/sleeping area in the back
-Long range fuel tank
-possibly a water tank on the other side
-Tuffy box
-Eventually a galvanized chassis


It will be a changing list but I would say that is a healthy (and expensive) start. Any comments, concerns, suggestions or criticism would be appreciated. I'll try to keep pictures coming.

 

[evilfij]

I would keep the capstan, they are awesome.

 

[morerunner]

I like the idea of the simplicity of the capstan but not the requirement for two people to run it. I guess I'll look into it more.

Not too much done today. I got the seats, floor and trans tunnel removed. I decided to do the clutch, gaskets and seals first. The plan is to remove the trans/transfer and take the flywheel to get re-surfaced. While that's getting done I will replace the gaskets and seals for the trans/transfer. I also have a rear main seal to install.

It will be done in a garage and I only have a floor jack. I was thinking of building a wooden lift system to place on either side of the rig and a beam through the doors. Then attach a chain hoist to it. I figured it would be easier and more effective than a ratchet strap around the frame rails. Any better ideas?

 

[evilfij]

Don't you have a hand throttle? Set the hand throttle, put it in neutral and you can winch by yourself (admittedly there is the steering issue, but that is not often an issue in eastern mud situations)

You can drop it from under the truck. Just do the t-case first and then the trans (each are > 100lbs). If you are not particularly strong it can be a challenge, but I have been known to put some old pillows and blankets down and then just let the thing fall. Getting it back is interesting too, but the floor jack and some blocks helps there. I have seen people do it with an engine hoise through the door too.

 

[morerunner]

I don't have a hand throttle, unless I haven't found it yet.

The engine hoist sounds like a great choice. Theres a few around for $100.

 

[RETROFIT]

Capstan ...

If you ever want to sell the Capstan winch send me a PM.

Pat

 

[morerunner]

Retrofit- PM sent


Sort of slow on the progress. I removed a lot of the old insulation that was helping to rust things. Also removed drive shafts and ready to drop the transfer and trans. Anyone know a good way to remove the insulation that is stuck to the metal without damaging the paint? I was thinking rubbing alcohol? The plan is to put dyna mat down. Cut down on noise and it won't absorb water.

 

[Maryland 110]

I like the idea of the simplicity of the capstan but not the requirement for two people to run it. I guess I'll look into it more.

Not too much done today. I got the seats, floor and trans tunnel removed. I decided to do the clutch, gaskets and seals first. The plan is to remove the trans/transfer and take the flywheel to get re-surfaced. While that's getting done I will replace the gaskets and seals for the trans/transfer. I also have a rear main seal to install.

It will be done in a garage and I only have a floor jack. I was thinking of building a wooden lift system to place on either side of the rig and a beam through the doors. Then attach a chain hoist to it. I figured it would be easier and more effective than a ratchet strap around the frame rails. Any better ideas?

I recently had to swap transfer cases and then had to pull it apart again a couple weeks later when the trans blew (235,000 miles and I'm pulling an all steel car trailer with heavy assed 110's on it). I borrowed a cheap, but very usefull trans jack from a friend. Its a harbor freight item that has no hydrolics you wind it up or down with a 1/2 inch ratchet. This keeps it light and easy to use. I wouldn't try the job without one. I have replaced an lt230 in a gravel parking lot by reaching down from inside and picking it up (basicaly curling it into position). I wouldn't recomend anyone do it that way. I'm 6'6 295 lbs and I hurt for days after that one.....what doesn't kill us makes us stronger.

 

[morerunner]

Well, I am going to attempt to separate the transfercase from the transmission for removal using ratchet straps for bracing and a floor jack. We'll see how it goes.

Going to move the build thread over to d-90 under the build section and named 85 110 3 door.

 

[muskyman]

Well, I am going to attempt to separate the transfercase from the transmission for removal using ratchet straps for bracing and a floor jack. We'll see how it goes.

Going to move the build thread over to d-90 under the build section and named 85 110 3 door.

Just climb under there and play bench press...the TC's are really not that heavy and out is the easy direction. I have pulled lots of them on my back, its really pretty easy.

 

[rovertech]

I know the 300 tdi has several upgraded timing components, idler, crank gear etc. I am not sure about the 200 but I would check before you do the timing belt.

 

[morerunner]

I searched and didn't find any upgrades for the 200tdi? I purchased the timing belt kit from Rovahfarm (which includes the idler). That should be sufficient right?