Question about RR axles

[Viggen]

I am looking at buying an early, and by early I mean 88 and prior RR and have a question about the axles. Are they 10 splines? When did LR increase the spline count of the axles? Lastly, if they are 10 spline, can I convert to later axles by swapping out the shafts and 3rd member or maybe just swap in a set of axles from a later model or Disco?

Thanks!!

 

[I Leak Oil]

Yes, from the factory they are 10 spline. D1 axle assemblies will bolt right up. In order to fit the 24 spline axles you need the diff. and I think you also need the spindles and possibly the hubs. D1 axle assemblies can be had cheap so it's probably just as easy to swap the whole thing out.

 

[Viggen]

Perfect answer! Thanks. I love this place. All the answers and none of the BS attitude of the other boards.

 

[ipgregory]

If you go the Disco axle route though you need to swap your RR brakes back on the front. Disco has single circuit solid fronts, RR uses Dual Circuit Vented. Not a big issue, just swap your RR rotors and calipers back onto the disco axles.

HTH

Ian

 

[Viggen]

I was planning on putting the brake set ups back on the Disco axles. The RR set up will bolt onto the front and the rears are bolt on also?

 

[ipgregory]

I was planning on putting the brake set ups back on the Disco axles. The RR set up will bolt onto the front and the rears are bolt on also?

Rear is no issue. Just bolt the axle up as it is and connect the single brake hose from the RR to the T-Piece above the diff on the Disco Axle. Fronts are the only difference. Keep the RR Calipers as they are and switch over the Rotors or put new RR ones on.

You will also probably need to fill the holes for the ABS Sensors on the Disco Axle with something if the sensors are missing. If the sensors are still in there, then just cut the wires and leave them in or find something to fill the holes with if they are missing.

Just remembered, depending on how early your RR is you may have the front/Rear Shock set up on the back. If you do then you will need to get another front facing rear shock mount to make them both mount in front of the axle to use the Disco rear axle. Can't remember when they changed or if any of the US trucks had that set up. Front shocks are all the same.

 

[nickyill]

I guess my only question would be why make the switch? Plenty of 10-spline Rovers driving around living healthy happy lives...It's a lot of work when 10-spline axles are dirt cheap.

 

[Viggen]

Honestly, living on the East coast, I will probably never put myself into a situation where I might break an axle but I would like to add a traction aid, like a locker, and if Im going to drop that kind of money on a locker, I might as well spend the $400 (found a set out of a wrecked D1) and get a stronger, bolt in axle set for not much more. At the very least, in the rear as thats where I plan on putting the locker first. The front will come later.

Im not building a rig that has to crawl any insane boulders but we have tight trails, rocks (esp. here in Va), and plenty of roots and mud to drive over. Its mainly for that warm and fuzzy feeling of knowing you have a slightly stronger axle shaft.

 

[I Leak Oil]

No doubt, it's a lot of work to swap for a small increase in strength if strength is what you're after.

 

[Nonimouse]

The two pinion 24 spline axle isn'that much stronger than the ten spline - in fact they are on a par. If you can find a 4 pinion 24 spline to fit into the 10 spline and then use the disco shafts... But then the Disco shafts become your 'fuseable link'

I ran a ten spline axle in my RRC with a truetrac, standard shafts and 215/85x16's in various mud patterns for well over 110Kiles (about 35k of tracks and off road). Used to replace the shafts once a year on wear.

Front was also ten spline but with the very early CV's/shafts - set up is still on the old girl even in her new form.

When I ran 24 spline front on the 100", the diff was the fueable link for the rest as it was only 2 pinion

 

[Viggen]

What about with larger tires? Im going to run between a 3" and 4" lift and size the tires appropriately. Is the shaft going to be able to handle the varying terrain and larger rubber? 215's are rather small. If they bolt in, how much trouble is it really?

 

[Series1Rangie]

Before I moved to UT, I used to run around in VA a lot. I drove the MAR and Crozet, and GW forest etc... on 34" with 10 splines open front and rear on my '81 RRC. <wood> knock </wood> I didn't break an axle or diff. And still haven't out here in rock country.

If you are going to lock, then you are right if you get a set cheap, swap out when doing the locker upgrade. However there were very few places (not including the fun truggy stuff) that my RRC wouldn't get through or over.

The biggest issue with large tires and east coast rovering is skinny pedal and wheel spin. If you can use momentum and the muscle between your ears, those 10splines will be fine for a long time.

If it was me. I would run the 10 splines open with a spare axle in the back of the truck. and not worry about the "upgrade" untill I had actually not been able to do what I wanted or broke something.

All of that being said, when you do the fronts, rember that an early RRC has different stub axles and CVs, so swap the whole thing over.

Mike and Myles

 

[Nonimouse]

Before I moved to UT, I used to run around in VA a lot. I drove the MAR and Crozet, and GW forest etc... on 34" with 10 splines open front and rear on my '81 RRC. <wood> knock </wood> I didn't break an axle or diff. And still haven't out here in rock country.

If you are going to lock, then you are right if you get a set cheap, swap out when doing the locker upgrade. However there were very few places (not including the fun truggy stuff) that my RRC wouldn't get through or over.

The biggest issue with large tires and east coast rovering is skinny pedal and wheel spin. If you can use momentum and the muscle between your ears, those 10splines will be fine for a long time.

If it was me. I would run the 10 splines open with a spare axle in the back of the truck. and not worry about the "upgrade" untill I had actually not been able to do what I wanted or broke something.

All of that being said, when you do the fronts, rember that an early RRC has different stub axles and CVs, so swap the whole thing over.

Mike and Myles

You should print this off, laminate it and stick it on the fridge door. Wisdom in every sentence, no more to be said :wings:

 

[Series1Rangie]

You should print this off, laminate it and stick it on the fridge door. Wisdom in every sentence, no more to be said :wings:

Thanks :victory:

I have wanted to put a 3" lift on for at least 2 years before I moved west. Still hasn't happened. Stupid truck just keeps going, or i find something I need to spend it on instead. maybe its not such a stupid truck after all.

 

[nickyill]

...check the 88 RRC in this video, "The Barnacle," with the Camel Trophy sign, guy in our club running locked, with big meats on 10-splines. He's out with us about every month and has been running this set up for quite a while now...He's soft on the pedal and hasn't had any axle issues...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvfAmtCsR_Y