Craigslist Find Saturday Morning

[DblD]

I have been looking for a ¼ ton military trailer for some time. Everything I have looked at has either been rusted out or way to expensive for my pocketbook. So today I drug this thing home. Story from the guy I bought it from is that the frame and axle came from a military surplus place somewhere in Iowa. He made the sides and fenders. The flooring and tailgate are 2x12 oak.

I’ve got a couple questions for the trailer experts.
Does this look like military running gear?
What would this axle be weight rated for?

Also, can the axle be swapped to the bottom of the spring for a bit of a suspension lift?

Thanks,
dd

 

[walking eagle]

couldn't you just flip the drop axle for a lift, and leave it spring under?

 

[DblD]

couldn't you just flip the drop axle for a lift, and leave it spring under?

HA! – Yes. Excellent. I had not considered that.
Thanks,

dd

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

I’ve got a couple questions for the trailer experts.
Does this look like military running gear?
What would this axle be weight rated for?

Neither the frame nor the axle look military to me. All I have owned are a couple M-416s, though.

Craig

 

[matt s]

I think I would go spring over versus rotating the axle. I prefer things where the load is physically supported by structure and hardware just keeps things in place. With the drop axle spun upwards there is only the shape of the square axle tube and the u bolts to keep it from doing what gravity wants to do (twist around back into the drop down position). Going to spring over would keep the the trailer in the "hanging" position in regards to the axle.

I hope that makes sense.

 

[dirty Bakers]

if you rotate the axle you will have to bend the axle in the middle to keep the positive camber.

 

[DblD]

I rotated the axle 180 degrees but kept it on top of the springs as Walking Eagle recommended. I thought I’d try it this way first. The axle appears to be a straight so hopefully no problems with off-camber wearing tires. After completing this little project, I’m afraid that turning the axle over has created more lift that I really want. I will wait until I get tires and wheels on before I decide for sure. I may just go back to the spring over axle and axle in its original orientation for a slightly shorter lift.

Any and all thoughts, suggestions, ideas are welcome.

Before:

After:

Thanks,

dd

 

[DblD]

Finally got around to adding Toyota steel wheels to the trailer. This required 2 in. wheel spacers to set the tire/wheel out far enough from the frame rail. Normally not a big fan of wheel spacers but on a light weight trailer, I figure it will be OK. Next up is some metal work to beef up the frame and supports.

dd

 

[Ford Prefect]

Looks nice.

 

[WMac]

As an Architect/ Engineer, and as a forum friend !

Ill just state that I would tread real lightly with that configuration.

You hit anything bigger than a speed bump at any respectable speed, and your liable to have a couple of U bolts gernade on you, Thats if you dont twist the axle bar itself. And you will wind up with pile of metal garbage attached to your hitch.

I'm Just sayin .

There is alot of engineering that go's into that design, and a good reason why the axle bar is slung low like that, as well as why they attach the springs "UNDER". (too much to explain here).

But for saftey reasons alone, I would flip it back, and do a spring over at best. you could even add 1/2" bloc/shim welded in place. would be ALOT Safer than what you got going on now.

 

[DblD]

You hit anything bigger than a speed bump at any respectable speed, and your liable to have a couple of U bolts gernade on you, Thats if you dont twist the axle bar itself. And you will wind up with pile of metal garbage attached to your hitch.

OK WMac (AKA Debbie Downer) HA – JUST KIDDING!

This is the kind of info I’m after. I was/am a little leery of rotating the axle in such a manner. It seems plenty stout as it sits but a personal creed that has gotten me safely thru 40 years is:

“Over Built and Under Engineered”

So, I’ll be the first to step up when engineering advice is offered.

You’re saying rotate the axle back 180 degrees and put it below the leaf spring? For additional lift add blocks if necessary. How about longer shackles in the rear of the leaf springs? Also, any thoughts/advice about the wheel spacers?

Thank you,

dd

 

[WMac]

You’re saying rotate the axle back 180 degrees and put it below the leaf spring? For additional lift add blocks if necessary. How about longer shackles in the rear of the leaf springs? Also, any thoughts/advice about the wheel spacers?

Thank you,

dd

Yes,

Put it back together the way it was, just place the spring pack on top of the axle (spring over) instead of the bottom. there maybe a pin on the spring pack as well as a hole on the axle (or vise/versa). these are used to align the axle square with the trailer.

If these dont exist on the flip side (axle and spring pack ) they cound be added by a welding/machine shop. its also a saftey thing as well.

these will also keep the axle from becoming mis-aligned if the U bolts loosen up or the wheel takes a hard impact off road, or again something bigger than a speed bump at speed.

With that said, one could have 1/2" to 1" Block of steel made by a machinest
as a "Lift". again you would want the block to have the riser pin on one side and a receving hole on the other. this will allow it to fit between the axle and the spring pack, and still be able to provide a positive connection.

A good example if this is a lift kit for a truck. If you have a 4X4 shop localy. have a look at a lift kit for a straight axle ford, chevy, toyota, the "Block" that they use in these kits are built this way.

I would bet one cound have the two blocks made at a machine shop for less than $50.00 or so.

 

[Springhilljeep]

Axle

Do your self a favor. Call ABC trailers and speak to Randy. He will get you a brand new 3500 lb axle with build in zerk fittings so you can grease hubs without taking them apart and ship it all to you for around $150. Then you have a nice new axle with new seals etc and can grease them up in the future.

I also went SOA for height to put my 33" tires on and really like it.

That set up is not military. Not the axle and not the hubs. At least none that I have ever seen.

If I can be of any help let me know.

Also if you need any other suspension parts, springs, shackles, bolts, shocks etc let me know I have all the part numbers and all the phone numbers for who you can call. I just went completely through my M416.

 

[matthewp]

I'm going to be keeping an eye on this thread, as I just bought a similar trailer to lightly modify for camping.

 

[Hill Bill E.]

Do your self a favor. Call ABC trailers.......

If you go this route, get a straight axle. Even staying spring under, a straight axle will gain you 4-5" (whatever the offset is on the original axle)

I agree, doesn't look like any Military trailer I've seen.