JK minor suspension lift, upgrade to adjustable shocks, add air springs (or AiROCK)

[bob91yj]

Other than the availability of deeper gears, I don't think the Rubicon front axle is worth starting over for.

Just for a reference point, my rock crawler is still running a D30, admittedly a High Pinion D30 so it is working the correct side of the gears (4.88's), and a Loc-Rite lunch box locker. It's never given me a moments trouble. I have upgraded the shafts (Cr-Mo) and u-joints (CTM's) over the years. I've broken one axle shaft/u-joint (stock TJ shaft and 297x joint, both failures at the same time, I suspect the U-joint went first) in the hundreds of miles I have put on it in the rocks.

I also agree that the 4:1 tcase in the Rubicons is too low for most expedition type rigs. It's great in the rocks, on expedition type trails I find myself constantly shifting between 4L and 4H to maintain a decent pace.

For what it's worth, I'm not a fan of the AiRock suspensions at all. Suspension shouldn't be that complicated on an off road vehicle IMO.

Truth be told, I like the leaf springs on my YJ the best. They are stupid simple, and with some tuned Fox 2.0 shocks, it handles most terrain every bit as well as the bling link suspension on my LJ.

I've tried Rancho 9000's on both of my Jeep's, couldn't get them off soon enough in either application. The adjustment window for each setting is too tight, shock is never set right for the terrain I was in. I also found that they overheated and faded to almost useless in 5-10 minutes of hard running. I've got the Fox's on my rock crawler, and I went to Bilstein 7100's with remotes on the LJ. Both the Fox and the Bilstein's are completely tunable via shim stacks, hydraulic fluid and nitrogen pressure. Last shocks I'll ever buy for either of those rigs.

 

[Hilldweller]

Other than the availability of deeper gears, I don't think the Rubicon front axle is worth starting over for.

Just for a reference point, my rock crawler is still running a D30, admittedly a High Pinion D30 so it is working the correct side of the gears (4.88's), and a Loc-Rite lunch box locker. It's never given me a moments trouble. I have upgraded the shafts (Cr-Mo) and u-joints (CTM's) over the years. I've broken one axle shaft/u-joint (stock TJ shaft and 297x joint, both failures at the same time, I suspect the U-joint went first) in the hundreds of miles I have put on it in the rocks.I also agree that the 4:1 tcase in the Rubicons is too low for most expedition type rigs. It's great in the rocks, on expedition type trails I find myself constantly shifting between 4L and 4H to maintain a decent pace.

For what it's worth, I'm not a fan of the AiRock suspensions at all. Suspension shouldn't be that complicated on an off road vehicle IMO.

Truth be told, I like the leaf springs on my YJ the best. They are stupid simple, and with some tuned Fox 2.0 shocks, it handles most terrain every bit as well as the bling link suspension on my LJ.

I've tried Rancho 9000's on both of my Jeep's, couldn't get them off soon enough in either application. The adjustment window for each setting is too tight, shock is never set right for the terrain I was in. I also found that they overheated and faded to almost useless in 5-10 minutes of hard running. I've got the Fox's on my rock crawler, and I went to Bilstein 7100's with remotes on the LJ. Both the Fox and the Bilstein's are completely tunable via shim stacks, hydraulic fluid and nitrogen pressure. Last shocks I'll ever buy for either of those rigs.

Listen to this guy. Don't buy the Rubi.

You can build the Sahara for much less money. A D44 and 4.10s is not worth $20K+.

Sleeve and gusset your D30, lift it with a Rock Krawler plus Bilsteins, gear it and add a locker or two, and you're done.
You can even add a rubicrawler, shafts, & axles and still come out ahead.

Now if you were talking diesel engine or maybe even the Pentastar in that deal, maybe...

Some of the Jeep forums, especially one particular JK-specific forum, are very self-serving and influence owners toward purchases that net them profits as well. Beware.

 

[outdoors]

I have the Rubi JKU and my buddy wheels with an X JKU...
He has a 3.5 lift w/37's and my Rubi a TeraFlex 2.5 lift w/35's..
Mine is setup for mainly exploration/expeditions as well.
I must say you really don't need the Rubi for anything since you already have a JKU.
Now go add some OME coils since you are towing. Otherwise, I'd suggest the TeraFlex coil setup I have.. A very nice ride too.

33's, I would consider gears and with towing in mind I'd go 5.13's..
Final gear is "close" to 3rd gear with 3.73's.. Actually your rpm's would be a little lower with the 5.13's in OD..

Remember it's a V6.. loaded over 5,000 lbs.. without a trailer..:Wow1:

 

[JPK]

I have to say that I would skip all the pieces and parts and go with an AEV lift. I understand that they now offer a 2.5" lift in addition to their proven 3.5" and 4.5" lifts.

As for handling the duties that you describe, I think ANY AEV system would be about perfect. Of course I'm biased because my AEV equipped Jeep drives, rides and handles much better than my wife's stock 2008 JKU Rubicon, or my wife's Jeep after installation of the Teraflex 2.5" BB kit (no change in ride or handling compared to stock with the exception of a very minimal reduction in tracking.)

With AEV's steering system your Jeep will corner flatter and it's handling will improve significantly with the elimination of bump steer a bonus. As far as ride, AEV's is excellent and the perfect combination of excellent and custom tuned shocks (Bilstiens) and progressive coils that are soft enough in early travel and firmer as suspension travel continues. The rate of the spring on my Jeep really, really improves towing and hitch weight capacity and while there is some deflection, as there must be, the rear doesn't squat with even 500lbs of tongue weight, far exceeding oem performance.

As far as high centering, yes a lift will help, but so will taller tires. If you want to limit lift then perhaps a combination of a 2.5" or so and 33" tires when it comes time to replace your current tires. You get a "free" 1/2" under the center but also under the differentials. That small of a change in tire diameter will not require a re-gear either. (Though with the often heavy loads you seem to be hualing, a re-gear may be a good idea.)

I have experience with OME spring and kits and while they may be better than most offerrings, OME doesn't come close to AEV.

The one alternative to AEV, imo, would be a Rock Krawler complete 2.5" system.

Also, a JK looks good with 2.5" of lift and 32's, a bit better to my eye with 33's.

Also, I agree that you should instal an transmission cooler at your very earliest opportunity.

On the Rubicon issue, for those looking to purchase a Jeep - meaning don't already have one - and then use it in situations where a built Jeep is an advantage, I think the Rubicon is the way to go. You cannot add aftermarket components to a non-Rubicon to match the Rubicon's capability and come close on the money issue, especially if you aren't doing your own wrench turning. However, if you will ultimately build a dedicated rock crawler where a greater than 4:1 transfer case, D60 axles and perhaps a welded rear, you may as well go X.

The advantages of a Rubicon over any other JK are:
4:1 transfer case - which I have never found to be a disadvantage and sometimes find to be a tremendous advantage.
The D44 front axle - substantially heavier duty "on the inside" than the D30. Thicker axles with a higher spline counts, much meatier R&P.
Front and rear locking differentials - a tremandous advantage that until you've had locking diffs you cannot appreciate.
Electronic disconnect sway bars - a very convenient set up which allows all but on the fly switching, but not a hell of a lot more practical than a manual disconnect set up. But if you don't go Rubi then you need to add the manual disconnects. BTW, disconnects are great for more than rock crawling, the can keep your tires on the ground when hill climbing or crossing streams or whatever and can be very helpful in those situations when its slick from mud or whatever.

JPK

 

[Hilldweller]

I'll agree with the AEV as an alternative to the Rock Krawler I suggested too.

 

[outdoors]

Rock Krawler has a good reputation for lift kits.. AEV is well AEV..
If you are buying a 3.5' lift or larger then go AEV...
But OME is still the best under 3' coil out there for the JK...In my opinon for towing something behind a JK..
I have a different opinion so check elsewhere too. I bought the TeraFlex kit because they stand behing their products like the other companies mentioned above, and TF had everything I needed for a more reasonable price. The TeraFlex 2.5' coil lift kit has been installed on "more JK's" so I really think the reputation and number of reviews are what convinced me..

I believe in the KISS method.. My hardcore wheelin' days are done. however, I still do a single diamond "Difficult" trail every once in awhile.. but not anything drastic.

I feel the op doesn't need a 3.5' lift.. I know we agree with that..

 

[JPK]

KISS wrt to JK lifts = incomplete

Incomplete = post about how to solve this or that post lift issue...

As I mentioned, as an OME owner, I wouldn't go that route again when there are two very excellent options out there. Which, imo, would be the AEV first and then the Rock Krawler 2.5" complete kits. You will need to call AEV since ther 2.5" lift isn't on their website, which is always months behind. (I guess it is better to be off developing first rate products then stuck in the office but ****, it gets old wrt AEV's website.)

Hilldweller rated the Rock Crawler first and the AEV second... Won't argue since it is a matter of experience with either and opinion. Each is a winner, and you will not go wrong with either and when you select either's complete system all of the Pandora's box issues that come along with a lifted JK are addressed.

Folk who recommend the good vs. the marketplace (but incomplete) OME spring kit - not comparable to RC or AEV's complete kit - do so out of a lack of experience with the two top of the market, fully inclusive kits, imo. (Saying that, my OME experience is with an LJ, supposedly their strongest suit, and my RK experience is with their JK 3.5" lift, my AEV exerience with their JK 4.5" lift... On the other hand, if you can make a 3.5" or 4.5" system work better than stock - and AEV and RK do - then a 2.5" system, with fewer "Pandora's Box" issues would be child's play.)

 

[HighFiveJosh]

It’s a 4-hour drive to the AiROCK dealer in Oceano, California, so I want to get as much decision-making information as I can.

Make sure to check out the Oceano dunes while you're there. You wont be disappointed.

 

[outdoors]

AEV is very "proud" of their products.. (RK) not RC.. is a decent product..

Because someone builds a bigger lift their smaller one must be better..:Wow1:
There are people happy here, and else where with their smaller incomplete OME coil lifts..
I know it's not what some people want to hear.. they can argue it all they want.
"My" personal experience was with my 09' 2dr JK, when I installed an OME Coil/Shock set up with adj track bars.
I personally enjoyed mine.. I just needed more room.
Some people will build a Mountain out of a mole hill..
The interesting thing about JK's is you don't need a 3.5 lift to go out in the woods, especially with 33's.. like the OP is looking at.
Otherwise, it's elite bs..

I do think the RK 2.5" setup is worth a good look at as well.
Rock on..:victory:

 

[Gary Franks]

full-time vs. part-time lift

Everybody: Your replies include many helpful points and I really appreciate them. I am still researching many of the products you mentioned before I comment on them.

In the meantime, let me address one specific and unique concept about the AiROCK system that hasn't been discussed here… full-time vs. part-time lift.

The primary reason that my original posting indicated that I wanted a “minor” suspension lift is because I really don't want a “lifted” vehicle. However, there have been times when I needed it. That's why I was attempting to compromise and get the smallest lift that would be useful.

This is why the AiROCK system appeals to me. Every other suspension lift solution is a “fixed-height” and a “full-time” solution.

My belief is that in the situations where I need a suspension lift, I REALLY NEED a suspension lift. At all other times, when I don't need a suspension lift, any lift is a detriment to stability and handling to varying degrees. Thus, except when you need the lift, it is desirable to have NO lift.

Similarly, I don't drive in 4WD all of the time… I only need it when I need it. Of course, the same applies to 4LO and lockers (if I had them) – I only want them when I need them. In fact, I don't even use my doors and roof most of the time, but when I need them, I really need them.

In addition to being an “on-demand” suspension lift, the AiROCK system is instantly adjustable. You can get the desired height that you want, when you need it. You can even adjust to different heights front to rear and side to side as circumstances warrant. This seems like a very powerful advantage.

What are your comments on the concept of an “on-demand” and “proportional” (or "adjustable") suspension lift?

 

[bob91yj]

Given that your tire size, and ultimately your ground clearance is going to stay the same regardless of where you set an adjustable lift, can you give an example of when you might really need a lift?

I understand that with the AiRock system there might be a time of two where you can inflate the system to lift the body and keep it from scraping, other than that, I can't think of a real position that you might be in that all of a sudden you need a lift.

I've never understood how they maintain driveline angles through the adjustment cycle of that lift either.

I'm getting old, always been stubborn, and I still think that the AiRock is more complication than I'd be interested in trying to figure out. (keep in mind cell phones baffle me) In my neck of the woods I know of two TJ/LJ's that have the AiRock. One guy loves his, the other guy is sorry he ever started modding his Jeep. He hates everything about his rig now.

I'd rather do some cutting/trimming on the body to get the tire size I want with the minimum lift required to keep it from rubbing.

 

[Gary Franks]

Given that your tire size, and ultimately your ground clearance is going to stay the same regardless of where you set an adjustable lift, can you give an example of when you might really need a lift?

The situation that convinced me to expolore a lift (after two years of avoiding getting a lift), was when I was loaded with gear, 4 adults and an offroad trailer. My suspension was sagging in the rear. Since I was pulling a trailer on the trail, I had to choose my lines for the trailer as well as the Jeep. I got high-centered and lost traction with my limited slip differential. On the same trip, going along a wash, my skid plate acted like a shovel scooping up rocks as I went along. Actually, if I had just been able to retain my stock height I would have been ok, so better springs or an AirLift bags would have solved my problem there.

The only times that I have been stuck, it has been a high-centered issue. This seems to be the most limitiing factor in my Jeep (aside from the driver - but I'm working on that too).

I've never understood how they maintain driveline angles through the adjustment cycle of that lift either.

Good question for me to ask on Monday, thanks.

 

[bob91yj]

Point taken. It was early, still on my first cup of coffee, for whatever reason break over angle escaped me when asking the question.

I think I'd give air shocks a try to see if they meet your needs. It sounds like you are generally content with what you have. A couple of hours and a couple hundy might solve your problem.

 

[Hilldweller]

BTW, I lifted my JK for the same reasons. I tow a trailer, have bumpers, winch, & big sliders. I was sagging and wallowing, high-centering and bump-steering.
I have a 2-door and swapped my second-from-softest springs for a set of JKU stiffest springs. And then put a Teraflex 2.5" puck lift with shocks on top of them (plus cambolts which I tack welded in place).

I don't sag, rarely high-center, but still bump my tail on departures from time to time. Rides great, better than stock in fact.

 

[outdoors]

BTW, I lifted my JK for the same reasons. I tow a trailer, have bumpers, winch, & big sliders. I was sagging and wallowing, high-centering and bump-steering.
I have a 2-door and swapped my second-from-softest springs for a set of JKU stiffest springs. And then put a Teraflex 2.5" puck lift with shocks on top of them (plus cambolts which I tack welded in place). Rides great, better than stock in fact.

Nice JK..! I'm sure you got some heigth out of those springs as well as stiffness for towing too. Those tires look familiar..:smiley_drive: