TC & ABS Lights...

[Storz]

I should add that they popped up before this weekends off roading.

Just wondering if they mean anything specific when they come on together like that. They've popped up about 3 times in the past 2 weeks, restarting makes them go away.

Thoughts?

 

[Paladin]

You probably have a hub/bearing that is starting to go and it is damaging the ABS sensor. I had that on and off for about a year, then they're on solid. I just replaced the wheel bearing and took the sensor out for curiosity. The end of it has been subject to some kind of mechanical destruction. Bits of bearing? I'm not sure.

Also might be a grounding issue. The ground for the ABS is right behind the left headlight, you might try cleaning it up.

Without reading the codes, hard to say for sure.

 

[Storz]

You probably have a hub/bearing that is starting to go and it is damaging the ABS sensor. I had that on and off for about a year, then they're on solid. I just replaced the wheel bearing and took the sensor out for curiosity. The end of it has been subject to some kind of mechanical destruction. Bits of bearing? I'm not sure.

Also might be a grounding issue. The ground for the ABS is right behind the left headlight, you might try cleaning it up.

Without reading the codes, hard to say for sure.

Thanks for the info, I'll try the ground first and go from there.

 

[rovertech]

You probably have a hub/bearing that is starting to go and it is damaging the ABS sensor. I had that on and off for about a year, then they're on solid. I just replaced the wheel bearing and took the sensor out for curiosity. The end of it has been subject to some kind of mechanical destruction. Bits of bearing? I'm not sure.

Also might be a grounding issue. The ground for the ABS is right behind the left headlight, you might try cleaning it up.

Without reading the codes, hard to say for sure.

Did you install the updated sensor when you did this?

 

[rovertech]

I should add that they popped up before this weekends off roading.

Just wondering if they mean anything specific when they come on together like that. They've popped up about 3 times in the past 2 weeks, restarting makes them go away.

Thoughts?

It is normal for all the lights to come on together, or one or two. Any combination means the same thing, a fault in the ABS system. The lights are telling you which specific functions are disabled or limited by the faults present. It is guess work without having the codes read. The shuttle valve switch failure is also very common and can be fixed without throwing out the modulator or messing around inside it.

 

[Paladin]

Did you install the updated sensor when you did this?

Updated sensor?

I ordered a new genuine unit bearing/hub assembly with a new sensor from Rimmer Bros last fall.

How do you fix the shuttle valve without even going in the Modulator? I know they can be fixed but, didn't know how to do it externally.

 

[rovertech]

Updated sensor?

I ordered a new genuine unit bearing/hub assembly with a new sensor from Rimmer Bros last fall.

How do you fix the shuttle valve without even going in the Modulator? I know they can be fixed but, didn't know how to do it externally.

The hub *should* have had the new style sensor in it. The factory connections under the hood and on the frame rail were awful and caused a lot of electrical faults when the sensor wasn't the real issue. The updated sensor has a long pigtail on it and is designed to be pinned directly into the SLABS ECU connector and bypass the two pin intermediate connector. If I replace a sensor I make sure to use the new version.

The shuttle valve fault is generally caused by a faulty solder connection inside the solenoid pack on the side of the modulator. There usually isn't anything wrong with the wiring or the switch. This is my experience and I am sure there are differing opinions but that is what I have found anyway. You can lift the modulator up without disconnecting the lines if yuo are careful, remove the shuttle valve switch and check to make sure there isn't any brake fluid leaking onto it from the hydraulic unit. Provided it is clear, take the new switch and cut off the connector (two pin), seperate the wires and run them out of the bottom of the swicth so you can access them after you install the switch assembly. Take one lead and solder on an eyelet and attach that to a good ground. Take the other lead and splice it into the GY wire in main modulator connector. This bypasses the bad internal connection and 99% of the time has fixed the shuttle valve switch faults I have run in to.

 

[Paladin]

Hmmm... I didn't notice anything different about the connectors on my sensor. It was exactly the same as what came out. The pigtail is about 1 meter long. It's the round 2-pin style, the connection is made on top of the fender inside the engine bay. Does the new connector involve resoldering the chassis harness or something? How do you update the connectors?

Ok, I'm aware of that SLABS fix, I just do consider that "going into" the SLABS unit.

 

[rovertech]

That is the old style sensor. The new one doesn't require soldering it has a 5-6 foot long wire length with no connectors on the end just bare wires. You then run that directly to the SLABS ecu and remove the original sensor pins and pin in the new one.

 

[Paladin]

Holy crap, how long is the one for the left side? Must 10 feet long!

Would dielectric grease help the connector?

For sure my sensor was bad in any case. Obvious mechanical damage to the tip.

 

[rovertech]

The rear sensors are very long indeed. You could eliminate the connector and solder the wires together to acheive a similar effect. Cleaning the connector out and applying grease wouldn't hurt either. I can post the new part number for you if you want for future reference.