It’s actually amps that would be limited by wire thickness. Voltage would stay the same until current increases and at that point it would drop.
that said, charging via the 7 pin vs a dc to dc charger are 2 very different things. It sounds like you need the dc to dc.
Based on your needs I bet you'd be fine with 100AH lithium and a 100 watt solar panel. I've got a 100AH lithium battery. I also just recently added a Redarc DC-DC charger. Previous to the Redarc, I've gone on quite a few trips with just the battery being topped off and I hadn't drawn it down...
The switch pro has the ability to trigger off of another source. Basically a relay built in. I'll be using that to turn on and off the weboost with an ignition switched trigger. I had completely forgotten that it had this ability. Thanks for all the suggestions.
I want it to turn on and off with the ignition so that while driving I 1) don’t have to remember to turn it on and more importantly 2) can’t forget to turn it off and have it kill my battery.
I do think the simpler solution is to just power it from the camper battery which is a 100 AH lithium battery and will handle it just fine.
I still would like this to turn on and off with the vehicle ignition though as well as being able to be manually controlled through my switch pro switch in...
I'll be adding a weboost cell adapter at some point soon and I've been thinking about how to install it. Ideally I'd like to be able to make use of this while driving and also while in the camper which serves as a mobile office where I tether through my phone for internet. Ideally it would be...
I'm about to do this same setup with a Redarc unit and I'm planning to run + and - from the starter battery to the bed of my truck. The ground from the starter and from my "house" battery will then both connect via a Blue Sea bus bar.
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