Recent content by glennm01

I used 1/4" rod for the pins on my DIY lock nut tool, which worked fine. No idea on the puller slots -- I was able to remove both drums without a puller.

I couldn't find a compatible Timken for the front inner. I emailed them with the Mitsubishi part numbers, and was told that they only had an interchange for the front outers and rear inners. I'm not sure if that's correct, but once I found the Koyos at a decent price, I just went with them.

FYI, the front outer bearing part number has been replaced/updated with MK711041. For the front inners, I went with Koyo 57326. For the front outers, I went with Timken 32011X. Also, I just re-used the hub cover gaskets. Same truck, btw -- '04 FG649.

Yeah, I'd suspect that the sandwich of parts that make up the manual locking hub mechanism are not in there correctly. Speaking from experience, it's not hard to do...

https://gotreads.com/product/gotreads-xl/ Easier to store than typical traction boards, and double as leveling blocks. No good for bridging, of course, but mine have worked great for a number of sand/mud recoveries, and I level with them all the time.

What is CRS?

The pic below is from the 2002-2004 shop guide, and if I'm reading it right, the interval between flashes is different for the tens column (1.2 seconds) vs. the units (0.4 seconds). Given your description of your flashes, it sounds like your error code could actually be a 22. Unfortunately, the...

Aha. Good to know -- thanks.

I wrapped up my front wheel bearing replacement this weekend, and found that all four of the old bearings were Koyo brand. I'm assuming this means they were not the original bearings, or is it possible that that's what Mitsubishi used for the OEM bearings?

I've been wanting to tackle this job for a while (front and rear bearing re-pack). My truck (2004 FG649) has around 125k miles on it, and I suspect it still has the original bearings, so I'm planning to replace them while I'm at it. I saw the Timken inner and outer part numbers mentioned above...

Wow, it's been 5 years already? Alas, September of 2019...when we were still all so young and innocent, but I digress. To folllow-up: Skaug Truck Body Works in San Fernando was able to build a subframe with four spring mounts on each side. It took several months for them to fit me in, as it's an...

Interesting. The info from Counteract (a mfr. of beads) reccomends 12 oz. for 37" mud terrains. I was still getting a shimmy though, so I added 3 oz. to each, which seemed to help. Still not great though. I wonder if having too much could be the problem, or maybe I just need to give up on beads...

Quick one for those of you running balancing beads with 37's on super singles -- how many ounces of beads have you found to be sufficient?

There should be a date on the side of the tube. With the wrong gun though, yes, it can be impossible to get out. You don't have to spend a ton though -- I've found that upgrading from the $5 gun to the $15 gun at Home Depot made all the difference.

Slightly outside the OP's parameters, but I've had great results with a cheap 110 volt residential 5000 BTU window unit mounted on my back wall. It draws around 400 watts when the compressor is on, and offers plenty of cooling for such a tiny space. I've heard some say that these units won't...