After the aforementioned washboard pounding we experienced in Saline Valley in December, I got home and set out to improve the suspension on our Tundra. I started by weighing the truck and determining the camper weight to be around 1400# with a full tank of water, and that 2-3” of lift over...
It was hard to nail down the exact weight, but I estimate just the camper with a full tank of water (26.5gal) is 1400#.
This was based on weights of other double cab Tundras and the difference of weight of my heavy tires
Sorry about the slow response. Yes, that longer catch is because the doors are asymmetric. It’s for the lower half to clear the taillight. Jay included it with the lower half install kit, and I installed it
1/2” Baltic Birch for the cabinet faces and seats, and drawers, and 1/4 for drawer bottoms and internal dividers. This was all wrapped around a complex extruded aluminum substructure
I considered a solenoid, but ultimately didn’t feel like it was necessary. I added a propane/Carbon monoxide detector to alert me if there’s a leak in my system, and manually shut the tank off when it isn’t in use.
Very cool project! I did the full length doors on my Tundra, and secured the passenger side against the side of my kitchen. During the process I looked at doing what you have done and thought it would have been cool!
It’s about a 20 mile stretch through Saline Valley that is really bad. I’m on E-rated Falken Wildpeaks, aired down to 19psi. I have a combination of Ironman struts, Icon RXT leaf springs and Fox 2.0 shocks. Slowing down to 5-7mph was the only thing that didn’t rip my truck and camper completely...
Sorry about the slow response.. It is just a standard 12” pigtail from Etrailer.
The regulator does have 4 threaded mounting holes, but it doesn’t come with mounting screws. I had to dig around at the hardware store to find ones that would work. I can’t be sure, but I think they were a #6 size...
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