Bilstein 5160s

[MOAK]

in our travels we recently did our first long stretch of forest roads in our fully laden F-350. The truck has the 4FX package. With the stock shocks there is a bit of porpoising that goes on after almost any whoop de do transition. I’m considering the Bilstein 5160s to replace the rear shocks. Coming from the Landcruiser world it would be a no brainer to step up to OME components which I did, I’m still in the learning curve with Fords & Overlanding components- photo for show! Thanks ahead for all advice & conversation.

 

[PacificNorthWestJeeper]

Call the guys at Accutune.com. With your setup you would benefit from tuned shocks. They will tune your shocks for each corner of the truck. They can steer you into the right shocks and tune them for you...
It will make the world of difference versus your OEM or 'off the shelf' shock.... I went with fox shock, remote reservoirs on my build (F550)... Good luck on your adventures, rig looks great, cheers.....
Accutune:

AccuTune Off-Road - Custom Tuned Shocks & Springs

AccuTune Off-Road specializes in pre-tuned shocks and springs from Eibach, Fox, King, PAC & Sway-A-Way. Check out our shock tuning or spring calculations today!

accutuneoffroad.com

 

[2025 deleted member]

I’m sure your leaf spring are flat as well. Lots of YouTube reviews on the 5160’s, seem pretty good

 

[Roam.Wild]

Upgraded Shocks, new leaf springs rated for your weight and probably some airbags will absolutely help.

 

[ramblinChet]

My suggestion is you slow down the process and dive deep into shock absorber applications for heavy overland trucks. There are many good companies such as Bilstein, King, Fox, and Icon, that offer shocks of different diameters, with or without remote reservoirs, and choices in valving such as progressive, digressive, linear, or hybrid. Some of this may sound strange right now but if you are interested in selecting the best shock absorber package for your particular situation - it is important to understand these variables.

Stop by a truck stop and drive up onto a certified scale, pay the $10-15, and have an accurate reading of your total weight and weight on each axle. Another important detail is to consider what percentage of time you spend on various surfaces and at what speeds. You can keep it simple and construct a 3x3 matrix to include (1) paved roads, dirt-gravel-sand service roads, and high-clearance 4x4, and (2) low speed 0-15 mph, medium speed 15-40 mph, and high speed 40-70+ mph.

And finally, there is no shock absorber that is perfect for all speeds and road conditions but objectively reviewing your details such as weight, surface, speed, etc. will permit you to help specify and design an ideal shock absorber package for the majority of your time behind the wheel.

 

[ExpoMike]

I loved my 5160's on my first 2nd gen Ram and FWC setup BUT I had custom built springs on it. The springs were built to handle the weight (camper lived full time on truck). I installed a set of 5165's on my M1010 ambo and put another set on my second 2nd gen Ram with Northstar camper but that one does not have custom springs but it did help control the ride and sway better with factory springs.

Like suggested, you really need to get it weighed and likely a set of custom made leafs, if you really want to get the best ride. My first Ram was very controlled but road like a Caddy when hitting bumps and dips. I really loved how that thing rode.

 

[MOAK]

My suggestion is you slow down the process and dive deep into shock absorber applications for heavy overland trucks. There are many good companies such as Bilstein, King, Fox, and Icon, that offer shocks of different diameters, with or without remote reservoirs, and choices in valving such as progressive, digressive, linear, or hybrid. Some of this may sound strange right now but if you are interested in selecting the best shock absorber package for your particular situation - it is important to understand these variables.

Stop by a truck stop and drive up onto a certified scale, pay the $10-15, and have an accurate reading of your total weight and weight on each axle. Another important detail is to consider what percentage of time you spend on various surfaces and at what speeds. You can keep it simple and construct a 3x3 matrix to include (1) paved roads, dirt-gravel-sand service roads, and high-clearance 4x4, and (2) low speed 0-15 mph, medium speed 15-40 mph, and high speed 40-70+ mph.

And finally, there is no shock absorber that is perfect for all speeds and road conditions but objectively reviewing your details such as weight, surface, speed, etc. will permit you to help specify and design an ideal shock absorber package for the majority of your time behind the wheel.

Agree- I’ve scaled it out, fully laden 4560 up front & 6330 out back. This weight will only change as we use water and gasoline. I’ve got to get honest with myself concerning your 3x3 matrix- that is great advice.

 

[MOAK]

I loved my 5160's on my first 2nd gen Ram and FWC setup BUT I had custom built springs on it. The springs were built to handle the weight (camper lived full time on truck). I installed a set of 5165's on my M1010 ambo and put another set on my second 2nd gen Ram with Northstar camper but that one does not have custom springs but it did help control the ride and sway better with factory springs.

Like suggested, you really need to get it weighed and likely a set of custom made leafs, if you really want to get the best ride. My first Ram was very controlled but road like a Caddy when hitting bumps and dips. I really loved how that thing rode.

Thanks Mike, I’ve come to that conclusion now as well. I’ve got 6330 lbs on that rear axle, that is rated at 6780. I see that add a leafs have different ratings- I’m thinking if I add a leaf that is rated for 500 lbs each, that would cause the rear to handle as if it were 1,000 lbs lighter? Is my conclusion logical?

 

[ExpoMike]

In my opinion, Add-a-leafs are a temp solution. It will "add" load capacity to the springs but not the axle or chassis. It is very possible it will raise the rear up more than you like and could cause more rebound effect, as the energy has to be released once compressed. It will likely work the shocks even more and could mean you need better valving to damping it, then off the shelf.

National Springs did my Ram (sadly out of business) and they actually had an 11 leaf pack they built, to give me capacity and the correct ride height I wanted. With so many leafs, it made it ride buttery smooth. You put all this money and effort into building up this rig, don't drop the ball on what is likely the most important part of any build, the suspension. Don't bandaid fix it cheaply, only to end up spending more in the end, to get it right. I lesson I have sadly learned over the years. Too many never have the money to do it right the first time but seems to have the money to do it twice....

 

[SDDiver5]

Do all the above with the specific shock valving, then call Deaver and have them make you a custom set of leafs. This will also remove the factory block.

This x10000. You're what, 150k into the build? Why not spend an additional few grand to make it significantly better?

In my opinion, Add-a-leafs are a temp solution. It will "add" load capacity to the springs but not the axle or chassis. It is very possible it will raise the rear up more than you like and could cause more rebound effect, as the energy has to be released once compressed. It will likely work the shocks even more and could mean you need better valving to damping it, then off the shelf.

National Springs did my Ram (sadly out of business) and they actually had an 11 leaf pack they built, to give me capacity and the correct ride height I wanted. With so many leafs, it made it ride buttery smooth. You put all this money and effort into building up this rig, don't drop the ball on what is likely the most important part of any build, the suspension. Don't bandaid fix it cheaply, only to end up spending more in the end, to get it right. I lesson I have sadly learned over the years. Too many never have the money to do it right the first time but seems to have the money to do it twice....

 

[ExpoMike]

Do all the above with the specific shock valving, then call Deaver and have them make you a custom set of leafs. This will also remove the factory block.

This x10000. You're what, 150k into the build? Why not spend an additional few grand to make it significantly better?

Yes, getting rid of the factory 4" lift block completely eliminated all wheel hop issues (by preventing spring wrap). I hate blocks over an 1" (just for leveling, if needed).

 

[MOAK]

Do all the above with the specific shock valving, then call Deaver and have them make you a custom set of leafs. This will also remove the factory block.

This x10000. You're what, 150k into the build? Why not spend an additional few grand to make it significantly better?

You guys are spot on- I should know better than to cheap out on this- the expo guy, “my conscience” says do it right, the farmer in me says do it cheap. I left the farm 50 years ago. Hmmm- Is Deaver associated with Carli?

 

[tacollie]

Part of the problem is the way the Ford leaf Springs are designed. Even with 3,000 lb on the back of our f250 it wouldn't engage the top overload unless we hit a bump. That created a lot of undesirable driving characteristics. We opted for Alcans built to carry our weight while maintaining the factory rake and got rid of the factory lift block. It was a lot of money but the truck rides a lot better and is more pleasant to drive. I'm also running Fox dscs from Accutune.

If I was trying to save money I'd probably buy a cheaper shock and still do the leaf springs.

 

[SDDiver5]

You guys are spot on- I should know better than to cheap out on this- the expo guy, “my conscience” says do it right, the farmer in me says do it cheap. I left the farm 50 years ago. Hmmm- Is Deaver associated with Carli?

Deaver supplies them with leaf packs for their various kits, but that's the only affiliation.

The owner of Deaver is named Jeff and is a solid dude. Last time I was at their shop they had 2 or 3 custom campers like yours they were working on. Also had some old iron and some race trucks.

 

[SDDiver5]

Yes, getting rid of the factory 4" lift block completely eliminated all wheel hop issues (by preventing spring wrap). I hate blocks over an 1" (just for leveling, if needed).

Getting rid of the block on my truck made the biggest difference. Worth every single penny.