Molex 63811-1000 crimper work on the terminals, they are standard Type III+ crimps. So basically any tool you currently use for AMP, TE, Molex or similar will work acceptably for the non MIL-SPEC CPCs. Their approved tool (The TE Pro-Crimper III) is of course expensive but as you know what you...
Gotta figure it's two lengths of cable, so $1.75/ft for 6 AWG is in the ball park. Ancor 6 AWG UL 1426 goes for $1.95/ft at West Marine. You can find similar cheaper but just a data point of reference.
Pool noodles I think are polyethylene, right? I don't know if the I.D. is 2" or even standard but they're usually a couple of buck I assume.
There's, of course, a more expensive industrial version. It's $4.84.
https://www.grainger.com/product/TUNDRA-3-8-Thick-2KUD2
He mentioned 300 watts, 24 V panels. I wondered the same thing. So about 10 to 12 amps at most.
I'd just do 12/2 marine, maybe 10/2 to get the drop a little lower. I don't think he said how far.
http://www.genuinedealz.com/12-awg-gauge-2-conductor-marine-wire-duplex-flat
Grainger sells foam pipe insulation that seems like it would work. It's $11.24 for a 6' long length, 3/8" thick EPDM.
https://www.grainger.com/product/AEROFLEX-3-8-Thick-19NF45
FYI to anyone not familiar with Engel cigarette plugs, there's a unique thermal fuse so you may want to leave enough pigtail and retain the actual Engel plug to make a Powerpole adapter for those fridges. The hardwire (like for MT60) harness or if you remove the cigarette adapter and just use...
Yup, avoid.
CCA = copper clad aluminum. They plate an aluminum core conductor with copper. There are legitimate reasons why it's done, cheaper, lighter, allows you to solder to aluminum core and for some applications it's an acceptable compromise. It's fine if you know its aluminum wire...
I haven't found that to be necessary. The good manufacturers AFAIK all use the same color codes for die sizes, it's called the Color-Keyed system.
https://www.newark.com/thomas-betts-color-keyed-compression-connector-system
The only reason you might stick with FTZ brand terminals is they...
That's the one I have, the FTZ model 94284.
IMO you might want to spring for the ratcheting version, FTZ model 94285 (note the last digit is 5, not 4). It's about $50 more and I kind of wish I'd gone that way. The regular works fine, crimps are good, though.
I got mine from Bay Marine, who...
I have an Engel cable with Powerpoles, too. I convert almost everything 12V to Powerpoles because it's universal and I have a lot of amateur radio stuff, so it's interoperable. The fridge is really the only thing that doesn't use them regularly but that's only because she won't let me hack the...
I put the panel where the door for the little cubby next to the 120VAC outlet in my TRD used to be. There's a 6-slot Blue Sea fuse panel behind the panel and currently just the lock point socket outlet for my fridge.
The two little over wheel cubbies are where I stuff spare trash bags, rags...
Just saw this yesterday (it reminded me to renew my ARRL membership).
There's several amateur satellite uplink and downlink frequencies within 144-146, I don't see how they can reallocate the spectrum anytime soon.
I'm a big fan of the Tyco CPC connectors. I've got them in a few places on the truck, ham radio equipment, etc. They are designed to be mechanically robust, for repeated mate cycles and staying sealed. I'd think the 1/4 turn bayonet style Miniature CPC would be perfect for a situation like...
Did they check your frame for straightness @jacobconroy? That's the problem with putting a bumper that is stronger than the support I suppose. I'm under no illusion that my ARB is probably more substantial then the Tacoma frame. It strengthens it to some extent but can't work miracles.
FWIW...
Agree on all of that.
Will say this, Weatherpack gets the job done and nice thing is NAPA stock them (at least my local one does), so when you need a different gauge terminal on a Sunday or run out of seals...
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