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That's not an accurate method. It's far easier just to put in the actual fuel prices and run the actual numbers based on combined mpg's and annual mileage. Dealership maintenance is hit or miss and often varies from one shop to the next. Ford dealers in particular are known to charge high...

I really don't agree with that math. I'm not sure how lowering the duramax's mpg by 20-25% accounts for the fuel price discrepancy between gasoline and diesel. Go look up the prices for the consumables needed for diesel maintenance (DEF, fuel filter, oil and oil filter) and look at the OEM...

Go talk to someone who actually owns a Colorado, especially the diesel variant if that's what you're interested in. And go for a test drive and physically inspect the vehicle. Internet feedback is worth your consideration, but it's only a single data point. I wouldn't take everything you hear...

I wouldn't say I know my s#$t on the subject. I just put more stock in OEM ratings and recommendations than what random people claim on the internet. If we're talking about a camper, a 1/2 ton or bigger makes more sense. No debate from me on that. But if you don't want or need that much...

I have my doubts on the ecoboost's (both the 2.7 and the 3.5) efficiency under realistic driving and working conditions. I think it does fairly well when it's driven empty and moderately. But in realistic scenarios, those turbo gasolines really aren't as efficient as the EPA ratings advertise...

I still see the mid-sized trucks (Tacoma, Frontier, Colorado and future Ranger) as offering distinct advantages over "bigger" trucks when it comes to mobility, not to mention cost of ownership (purchase, fuel, maintenance). Yes, even the mid-sized trucks are bigger than their predecessors, but...

@chet6.7, I downloaded the most recent version of Cummins' Powerspec program. The problem is that it is geared (no pun intended) towards true medium and heavy duty applications of the 6.7l Cummins (RV's, buses, small transport trucks, ect.). The RPM's that it recommends for for the 6.7L...

Yeah, I agree the torque and power delivery on these newer engines is a bit different from the prior diesels. I'm still a little confused on what RPM's are ideal for the 6.7l Cummins for both efficiency and work. As it comes from the factory (SRW w/ 33" tires and 3.42's) the engine is...

Blasphemy! But seriously, that should make for a very interesting and capable build.

Which transmission do you have and how many gears?

Ravenmad, did either of them (AEV or DPP) distinguish between the Cummins' optimal efficiency RPM range and its optimal work RPM range? I've heard more than a few say that for best fuel efficiency, while empty, the RPM's should be around 1600-1700 RPM (the latter delivers peak torque). And...

So could you expand on this bit? I've got a friend looking at bigger tires (35's) for his Ram w/ Aisin transmission. Stock gearing (for SRW) is 3.42. We've been debating back and forth on this. Some owners claim that 3.73's should be low enough to get the RPM back into OEM-like specs. Some...

If you need to carry more payload than what the Tacoma is rated for, get another truck. Can you modify the suspension to accommodate heavier loads? Yes. Does that mean the rest of the vehicle (powertrain, frame, brakes, axles, ect.) will be able to safely and effectively deal with that...

So does suspension travel have any part to play in this OEM radius arm issue? If you're dealing with at most a 3" lift, and the corresponding suspension travel, will the axle with the stock radius arms really be vulnerable for mild, even somewhat technical, rock crawling?

Informative post! So at what point does the OEM radius arm setup become a liability for an offroad-oriented Ram? I'd imagine that driving over rough, even unimproved and rutted roads and tracks should be fine...plenty of people drive their Ram's on bad surfaces and I don't hear about axle bind...

So I'm not sure I understand what the issue is with the stock radius arms on the Ram. Will they break if front suspension articulates too much?

^This. Icon's and some other trending names may offer the performance, for a hefty price. But for remote travels on a budget, you're better off going with either a stock suspension or a very basic aftermarket kit (OME's basic nitrocharger shocks and complimentary springs are a prime example)...

2015 SRW 3500 w/ Aisin.

So if 4.10's are sufficient for 37" tires, should 3.73's be sufficient for 35" tires (assuming the truck will see some towing work)?

So I don't mean to derail your thread too much, but what is AEV's take on re-gearing for bigger tires? Are they aiming for a certain RPM at highway cruising? I've got a friend who is wondering about putting true 35's on his Ram (with stock 3.42 gears). Some people say stick with the stock...