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Interesting, the relay went bad a couple months ago but I checked everything and thought it was just the relay. It wasn't until I went to unplug it that I realized something was up because you couldn't tell just by looking at it connected.

I go portable, 2 x 100 watt Renogy panels, one for the Jeep for the fridge, and one for the trailer, or in shady times, both for the Jeep. I tend to park in the shade when possible and I ditched my roof rack on the Jeep. If we are moving everyday we don't deploy them as they are not needed.

Got it, thanks. Honestly in this situation I could just use a couple Posi-lock connectors as it's not like this gets unplugged often, in fact, it's the first time since it was installed 5 years ago!

I found these on Amazon, IP66 rated but not cheap: Progressive Automations Linear Actuator

Correcting my previous post, Anderson does make a retention clip for their connectors so I will probably go this route, since I have the connectors, crimping tool, insertion/removal tool as well. Strain relief in this particular case is not an issue. Here is the retention clip: Anderson...

Damn you weren't kidding!

Those Metri pack connectors are very nice. The Andersons don't have any strain relief for the wires and don't latch, so I am tempted to go this route instead. Thanks for the input!

Interesting, that's good to know. Have yet to have any issues with mine. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

2 of my favorite sites! I don't think the radio connector can handle the power draw. The ARB wires are 10 gauge so I think I need to go with a more substantial connector.

That's the direction I am leaning as the ARB has a 30 amp fuse, and I've got a handful of 45 amp Anderson connectors.

I had to remove my ARB compressor in my Jeep JK so the dealer can access the brake booster and when I went to unplug it, I found this: This side of the connector is fairly melted however the other side is not. I don't see any other issues with the wiring loom and everything works as it...

Many of today's modern vehicles, like my 2013 Jeep Wrangler, have factory systems that run all the time and after a couple of weeks with no charge will in fact run down to the point the vehicle will not start. Having a dual sensing system works very nicely as both the start and the house...

I doubt it, the only way the Campfire in a Can and the like are approved is because they are considered propane stoves. They don't actually burn any fuel other then propane. However, for somewhere like Anza Borrego where you aren't allowed to have a campfire directly on the ground, the Solo...

Thanks! Looks like you are off to a good start yourself!

It is! Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Slammed at work so this will have to be a quick answer: I switched my charge controllers around recently. The solar charge controller for the trailer is a Morningstar Sunsaver 10amp and I have a 20amp no name brand off Amazon for the Jeep. The higher amp is in case I have to plug in both...

Yeah I don't blame you, the struts work ok but was still a little bit of a battle. I think I had 50lbs struts, which are still in the garage somewhere...LOL. Momentary DPDT, no issues with RTT mounted on one side. I didn't see any difference in lifting from the tent being to one side...

Hahaha! I know right?

No worries. I've seen those mounted a couple ways, either with hose clamps or I believe I saw someone who drilled the bars and bolted straight through them. I'm not sure if I saw the second method on Expo, might have been on Jeepforum.com

These are now SOLD