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I'd generally think that dive while braking would be tackled by some good digressive-damped shocks, but the heavier torsion bars will probably be a good idea, too.

I wonder as well. It wouldn't be that hard to see what could be done with a deflated spare and a ratchet strap. It might be difficult, but I bet it could be done. I've gotten many flats offroad, but don't recall ever pulling the spare out. Having said that, I'll probably destroy a tire getting...

If you don't have a need for the front rack, I'd get rid of that. Also, I think it would be be better if the gooseneck was mounted to the frame and not the deck... and what is the reason for having a hitch receiver in the deck itself? Oh, I see the other receiver is for a dirt bike rack.

I made a pseudo 3 point using poly isolators... generic Energy Suspension cab mounts. 4 in the front spaced wide, and 2 in the rear on the centerline. If I did it over, I'd put 4 in the rear also. They are cheap and easy to use and there is no downside to having more. It's working great so far.

The reason for the articulating frame is so the frame twist doesn't over-stress the camper... which will not be nearly as flexible. The PU frames don't twist, so no reason for it. You could use cab/bed mounts in between the frame and camper if you wanted. The flatbeds are usually stiff in...

"I agree that off-road vehicles need some means of articulation. I’m comparing apples to apples - building a subframe or dynamic mount for a C&C frame is easier and cheaper than doing the same on a pickup." ^ But since the pickup doesn't need one, and the C&C does...

For an overland build it needs to articulate though, which ends up making it much more expensive... and usually difficult for most people. Mounting is easy on a pickup frame if you just use the bed-mount points.

A pole saw is a good recommendation, but wouldn't a manual one work fine for occasional use? I think in the east, mud might be a regular problem, also. In the desert west, I'm getting some good testing/experience with "capabilities". Like, this morning for instance. I'm noticing that all these...

Cancel it! Well... maybe... I assume this is something you will take offroad, and C&C has the straight C-channel frame that needs a pivoting bed of some kind. I doubt the "friend of a friend" knows anything about that, and suggested the C&C because he normally makes beds for utility/work...

Oh, that is bad. Don't see the point of such high gearing at all... it's taller than mine even with the 35s.

The TW buzz is that pre-2014 2nd gen Tundas can have serious mpg hits if they aren't regeared when higher loads and bigger tires are added. The Dirty Deeds guy claimed the computer didn't compensate properly. I definitely don't have that with my 2016, with fat 35s and a big camper and no regear...

On newish vehicles I think it has more to do with QC. It might still be a good choice for long term.

It is now! That's why it got a lot cheaper...

But don't you use 4lo in off road technical conditions? I've never wanted that to be lower.

? I get 15 mpg with a big camper. BTW, pretty sure his 46 gal tank replaces the original.

Oh, I've definitely done my share of guessing! Most people are clueless for sure... and this is what the low GVWR for 1/2 tons is based on. Dufus Jones puts a 5,000 lb camper on his Tacoma and kills 5 people and a cute puppy, and tries to blame Toyota. Toyota says "not our problem". I was going...

The Highlander is a car based SUV and the 4Runner and LC are body on frame and Tacoma based. I was going to suggest a Sienna, but you already have an Odyssey. It sounds like you want to get an offroad vehicle... just because. But if this is your wife's daily, then there are different...

I made my camper using hand layup FG and carbon with epoxy (E-Bond) on PVC foam (Carbon Core). My 2 cents... -Beating "premade FRP skin" strength/stiffness/weight is super easy, even the ones that use woven cloth (many are mat/chopped fiber). I did a bunch of tests to verify. Infusion is cool...

Mud, no. The tire tests I've seen conclude that even ATs are useless, as the grooves immediately fill with mud. Not all mud is the same though, so maybe there are varieties where a typical AT would be more effective than an LT.

Yes that is what I heard; the pre 2014 models did not have this issue. But I also wonder if the transmission behavior was improved in 2014, which is why didn't have issues with it hunting for gears or experience a drop in MPG with higher gearing. Everything is computer controlled now, which I...