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I think @Kingsize24 is doing this exact thing at the moment, maybe he can chime in with some advice and share his choices on his similar build?!

They aren't, it's a monocoque design that that sits within the space and supports itself. The clothes rod is installed at the factory and a separate part of the system.

LOL. We will definitely have to disagree. I suggest you do your own research and educate yourself on the differences in design, material, and engineering of said designs. And if you're rolling your trailer you have a lot bigger problems than worrying about whether or not it survives said...

Another idea I lifted from a fellow Casita owner. During the hotter months, when one uses the AC it tends to drip the condensation down onto the entry side of the camper. This water runs off near the entry door and over the window on the entry door side of the camper. This 1/2" rubber gutter...

I finally got around to installing the awning crank near the entry door and directly next to the awning spreader/support bar. I had planned to use rivets direct to the fiber glass but instead I opted to drill through the FG and into the wood supports for the cabinet shelving. Now both items will...

Agreed and most tow vehicles will become uncomfortable or even unsafe while towing at speeds slower than the damage threshold of the trailer and it's components.

A fiberglass tub far and away out survives any frame and panel setup over rough terrain. Oliver and many of the other high end trailer companies build off of custom aluminum frames, while aluminum has a lower tensile strength than steel it is lighter, not nearly as corrosive and takes far less...

While I can't take credit for this solution I must say that it is pure genius in terms of space management and accessibility. Another Casita owner came up with the idea of using the trim panel hardware found on the space between the door and the cabinet to mount the awning spreader bar. He also...

My wife grew tired of remotes lying around and never within reach when she actually wanted/needed them so I gave in to my clean/minimalist nature and agreed to mount them to the wall partition near the bed.

In order to fully drain the Suburban water heater in my trailer you have to pull the anode rod which is a PITA. This is much better.

It's wild how little attention to detail and execution they put into the underside of this trailer. Glad to see you making the much needed improvements to their lackluster fit and finish.

Interesting! Looking forward to more.

It's a weird one for sure.

I threw the new charger on the battery, turned it up to 15amps and it only took 8 minutes for the battery to fully charge the last 2%/7Ah and balance all four cells. I'll stick to the plan of throwing the battery on this charger each time I put it back in storage post trips.

It took numerous attempts at different adapters to find the correct one for this awkward combination of metric and standard threads in order to fit this silly little pivoting head, adjustable aerator to the kitchen sink. In the end the adaptor cost me more than double what I paid for the aerator...

Very similar to the fuel bladders we’ve used on the offshore boat.

Well, seeing how it has no nails, staples, or major screws (aside from a few small decorative strips, nothing structural) they hold up worlds better than the majority of your traditional campers and even some of your off-road oriented trailers as there's no structural wood or panels to rattle...

Yea I couldn't find a switch and the literature claims it does all of it automatically. I plan to call the manufacturer WFCO tomorrow and see what they have to say.

Sad to see this one go, been following along on the build thread for all of these years. GLWS!

The converter claims it's capable of a lithium charging profile all the way up to 14.6v so in theory it should be able to do it. I think my issue is that I am charging via the available 15amp outlet in my unit instead of the full 30amp as it's designed for. If I had a 30amp hookup nearby I could...