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Best bet is a DC input charger for your e-bikes. Look on the hobby sites like hobbyking.com, you'll find chargers that can take 12v in and output 36v or whatever. This is the most efficient way as you're not converting DC to AC then back to DC. In addition to this you'll also want a lot more...

I hadn't built anything more complicated than a cardboard moving box when I started our build... I was worried about the complexity of Gait's drop top / SkiFreaks hard side pop top so I went with a hard sided design. If I was building again I'd probably do some sort of crazy hard sided pop top...

Ours is still kicking along after just over 2 years of full time travel. If something was to go wrong there are household AC repair guys in almost any town who could work on it.. unlike the low volume 12v units where parts may be difficult to come by. Total replacement cost is only $500USD or so...

+1 for vanglass, I chose them primarily because the insulation value is double that of the XPS styromax use. This makes a huge difference to the liveability of the camper, when it was -1 outside we had to crack a window because it was too hot... and in central queensland we could run the AC 24/7...

Its true Lithium cells are not self balancing , which also means they're not self unbalancing :) I have found if you balance the cells initially and keep the charge/discharge voltages sane, you do not require balancing (I haven't re-balanced mine and they're almost 3 years old now with 2 years...

There is no increased fire risk with LIFEPO4 (you can shoot the battery and it won't ignite, unlike other unrelated lipo chemistries you may be thinking of...) Ideally you want to use a programmable charger so you can set the voltages to your specific battery (similar to charging a good AGM...

The 18000mAh is at 3.7volts , the nominal voltage of a lipo cell. So its 18 * 3.7 = 66Wh , or about the size of a small laptop battery. Running a 12v load like a fridge we divide the watt hours by volts and get 5.5Ah. If the fridge draws 3Ah you'll be able to run it for an hour and a bit...

Also.. most of these panels suck. you'll be lucky if you get 12 months out of them before they either stop working or have greatly diminished performance. I think we've been through 7 or so. If you can afford the weight and have somewhere to store it a 320W LG panel weighing 16Kg will produce...

One thing to watch out for when attaching these panels to a substrate is the affect high temperature will have on the 2 materials. its very easy to destroy a panel if the thermal expansion properties aren't similar (don't ask me how i know this)

You can charge to ~ 97% before the current tapers off, <.5C is best for long life so you'd be looking at just under 2 hours for 20-100%

I'm back at rainbow beach now and had trouble getting it into high range when leaving inskip... argh. I'll try your suggestions.

I saw the big pink dingo bus get bogged at the V at the top of the hill leaving Eurong! Quite a few were struggling leaving inskip, one guy was stuck for over an hour! Indian head wasn't too bad, I got through but had to drop to 1st for one section. it was a pleasant trip :)

Couldnt work out where to tie off the bungy, fortunately I had 2 European backpackers to take turns holding it ;) Side note.... The interior tracks on Fraser are the worst i've seen them... rough and extremely soft sand :/

Arrived at inskip point today and after putting the truck into low range I took off in 2nd, as soon as I grabbed 3rd it popped out of low. If I stay in whichever gear I start off in it stays in low. If I hold the lever in low it stays in low. Any ideas ?

Fortunately this is pretty easy to work out if you have the panel specs and your average charging voltage. Here's one i prepared earlier : This based on a "standard 12v" panel charging a lithium battery. RED = PWM losses higher than MPPT GREEN = MPPT losses higher than PWM BLACK = panel...

Flexopower... hehehe. Their 79W model is only slightly smaller than a 330W LG panel... (1.3m2 vs 1.6m2) but twice the price. 79W - 12% = 69W 330W - 78% = 72.6W So even using their ridiculous test the LG panel would still produce more power... And when there is no shadows you're making 4x...

Does it have mounts?

Its less than 30mm from memory because of the thickness of the plate, you can't spot it unless you really look hard.

2300Kg wheels: http://www.constructionsales.com.au/buy/private/SSE-AD-659697/Weight-Cheetah-Wheels-175-x-675-x-6-Stud-22225 2240Kg tyres: https://www.tyresales.com.au/buy/tyre/kumho/krd02/9.5-0r17.5/108569?q=4 You'd need your engineer to confirm they are legal for your vehicle / rated GVM.

There is no (cheap) way to limit current and your alternator is probably capable of pushing 14v @ 40A+ into the battery. Uncontrolled 1C+ charging is... not great. 40Ah nominal battery so ~20Ah usable? This seems like a lot of added complexity for very little capacity. eg. your starter battery...