Wiring my aux battery. Trying to avoid getting fried out like I did in years past. https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/traveling-in-a-fried-out-combie.28802/
If the charge cable ends up grounding (it happens to me, see above) ¿may I assume the benefit of fuses on each battery as to not...
Any pictures of last time you went through? It is an ever-degrading trail. Have not done it in years but would like to take a southbound run with a couple mildly lifted LCs. ? Thinking we may navigate further East ?
LC100 :-) But I've had many swing out rear carriers, and I've actually gone BACK to spare underneath. The convenience of easy rear access especially for 3rd row passengers is SO much better for me.
? agree there. My problem is that in order to carry extra fuel, I need either to put it on the roof (no room at present) and there are some safety concerns, or on a back carrier (which I don't have). As such I have to think of the gross $ outlay. $2k is rough.
I DO have a OEM rear aux tank...
It's not so much "hardware store" stuff, it is that it is flat, rated, and can both run underneath the lower windshield fairing and fits almost perfectly between the glass and A-pillar, it also has a "ground" wire that I can employ to assert the lighting relay. I'm absolutely open to all other...
In the 8/2ufb there is a smaller ground wire which I would use to assert the relay for the LED lights (I'm embarrassed to say I even have them!). Otherwise, everything else planned up there is all switched up there. The only in-cab switch is the lighting.
And that's why I'm thinking about...
Fascinating. I am reading more on this. This is effectively of what I was thinking. Price is high, BUT start adding up time, connectors, solder, relays, etc etc falls right in there.
Hiding will be done but I'm more into function than form. That said, the wiring is actually going up the side of the windshield. I am seriously debating 105°C 8/2UFB wire wrapped in a poly sleeve, so yes I would run ground up.
Yes, but, it is only 12V and certainly not enough potential to...
Folks, running 12VDC with ~40A capacity up to the roof rack, there will the "obligatory" LED lighting as well as outlets for the rooftent and an eventual solar feed. I'd like to terminate a bus/breakout from somewhere such that I'm not splicing/tapping every time. What solutions have you used...
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