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You’re not wrong but in this case it’s really semantics. An 8amp charger (assuming at full rate and not trickling) still provides 8ah of power.

TT-30 adapter This works great. I used it a lot with my R1T.

Standard SAE works great for this purpose.

Looks like I misunderstood what you wrote. I took this as you thinking there were only chargers every couple hundred miles and only in populated areas.

Typically there's a DCFC every 100 miles or so on major roads. Coverage is more limited the further you go from major roads and population centers of course but it's not as concentrated as you seem to think. If you limit to just Tesla branded Supercharger stations there are some larger gaps but...

Or don’t take one of the EVs with the lowest range specifically designed to be a commuter car.

Doesn’t look that way, at least not an option for me.

I’m interested if it will truly require a 100 watt power source due to voltage loss in the length. I’d like a longer cable and water tight connection but still want to be able to use my 65 watt output power bank.

The blanket statements people about EV weight are the problem. It’s the difference between saying “some basketball players are super tall” versus “basketball players are twice as tall as normal people”. On the extreme side like the Silverado it’s almost true but in general it’s a few hundred...

And like most Americans you have no idea what a commie is other than some ephemeral bad guy name used for someone you don’t agree with.

https://youtube.com/@willprowse?si=QvT43XO7rCw88rLF This guy does a lot of reviews for budget batteries.

Yep, only a problem for charging. Mine function fine down to -20°F but do take a while for them to warm themselves up enough the next day to start charging.

For batteries that are not in a heated area or can self heat it is an issue. Lithiums won’t charge below freezing, most battery management systems will prevent charging to prevent damaging the battery. Self heated batteries work great (I have them) but they are out of the price range you posted.

Lithium all the way unless you routinely camp in cold weather below freezing. A single 100AH lithium gives you as much usable power as the group 31s and weighs significantly less.

Looks like the latest Starlink app update added a power usage graph. That could be helpful to people trying to figure out what size power source they need based on their usage. This is showing my actuated dish, not my mini.

I agree with this. Rather than buying a portable power pack and solar panel buy new lithium batteries for the camper and either put another solar panel on the roof or plug the portable into the outside port (if your FWC has one).

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/starlink-mini-portable-dish-with-integrated-wi-fi-router.244725/

I’m not sure I’d go so far as to get the girls a leaky tent but sooner than later they will be at an age where they don’t want to be in a camper with Mom and Dad or even camping at all. Getting rid of a really nice truck like this seems like a waste but I guess if you had half a million dollars...

Get the kids a tent and keep the truck.

No, tow mode back then was very basic with no way to name or save trailers, calculate weight or any of the cool features it has now. Pretty much just disabled rear back up sensors, adaptive cruise control and turned on the trailer brake controller.