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The 4.2 cu.ft refrigerator in my camper is not one of the portable types that you're looking at, but very likely uses the same Danfoss type compressor. I have a power monitor attached to it at the 12V input and have been monitoring power usage in a variety of different conditions since I got...

For cooking/heating, you can't beat propane for a lot of energy in a small space, but if you toss A/C and/or a microwave into the mix then a small genset is the best option. I have a truck camper with both A/C and microwave, but very rare that I use either one, unless I'm on shore power...

Ted, The simplest thing you can do is install a manual battery selector switch of the type you'll see in boats that have more than one battery...they're cheap and do the job, but you have to do yours and remember to switch to combine when driving and separate when camped (so you don't run your...

I've just been making some modifications to a utility trailer that I'll tow behind my truck/camper on trips where I want to take along some toys. Part of that was the addition of a pair of storage boxes and support structure to mount either a pair of kayak cradles or crossbars. I can attach or...

Late to the party here, but I'll toss mine out here. Taken at my home in N.GA. For those who care, Nikon D850, 200-500mm zoom with TC1.4EIII, F8, 1 sec at ISO400, tripod with gimbal head. And for fun...Solar and Lunar Eclipse composite...

A quick update...very pleased with the performance of this unit so far. I've taken 4 trips of a week or more and though I wasn't boondocking the whole time, it's been great to have the extra space and the ability to maintain a more consistent temp in the refrigerator/freezer...not to mention...

Thanks for sharing those photos jefe...some interesting solutions to increasing what you can bring along without packing it all inside the camper. My thinking has certainly evolved and will continue to as I spend more time on the road. I retired a year ago, but this past year has mostly been...

To add to what Alex and Jefe have said, I've had a 2008 Lance 815 on my 2500HD, EX, SB, 4X4, Duramax for about 4 years and for the type of travel/camping I do, it's a great fit. I picked it up used for $11K and it was as-new, though no A/C at the time. I looked around at several other...

Hi reaper...that's key info...and I'd say you're treading on thin ice with only a 65Ah battery...especially since that's likely not a true deep-cycle battery. So, here's where you go with this... 65Ah capacity at a rate that would discharge the battery fully over a 20 hour time period, which...

In checking the spec's on that Dometic unit, they give a typical usage of .74Ah/hour or a little less than 18Ah/day. In units I prefer to work with, that is about 9.4Wh/hour or about 224Wh/day (assuming 12.6V nominal system voltage). What is the Ah rating of your battery? If your battery is...

Not sure where you're getting these charge rates as being somehow magical rates. I have no doubt the unit would adequately charge and maintain a 230Ah battery for storage, but it would certainly take a while to bring it back to 100% from a low charge state. A matter of time, not capability...

This from over a year ago while camped on some BLM land outside of Arminto, WY. I viewed/photographed the eclipse in August of 2017 from very near this location. Decided I wanted to be on the ridge to the West of the powerlines in this shot and meandered over there the next morning. No hordes...

I've been using one of these cheap Acurite units for about a year...bought two on sale at Home Depot or some such a year ago...$16 each. You can find them on Amazon, but also maybe at Walmart or Costco. No issues with the unit, just don't drop the remote unit in a cooler full of ice...

As azken states above, yes, the switch should always be in the ON position for day to day use. As for switching OFF for storage, also yes, unless you can leave the camper connected to shore power where it's being stored. A lead-acid battery will "self-discharge" at a slow rate and leaving one...

You're welcome...and one other comment/question. Most campers have a connection to the host truck for 12VDC to charge your camper battery as well as wiring for clearance lights, turn signals and running/brake lights. I don't see any such lights on your rig. Is there a connection to the truck...

What sort of trouble? How it's meant to function in the system? From the looks of it, it's only purpose is to disconnect the + lead of the battery from everything else in the system, including the charger/converter. All the rest of the system remains connected so that you can operate 12V...

Regarding your charger/converter...if you're talking about the unit to the right of the batter on/off switch, it's an IOTA DLS-30 and here's a link to their website... https://www.iotaengineering.com/dls30.htm No really detailed owner's manual, but there are a couple downloadable info sheets...

Here is a link to the unit I'm using for the fridge...it will read up to 20A max current. I also have a similar unit that uses and external shunt that can handle up to 100A current. I use that one for monitoring input to the system from my solar panels (400W). 20A unit is about $15 and the...

The original Norcold N300.3 12V/120V/LP refrigerator that came in my 2008 Lance 815 has been an aggravation since I bought it from the original owner about 4 years ago. Not so much that it didn't work fairly well, but more that the limitations, efficiency and idiosyncracies of gas absorption...

Not trying to hijack this thread, it's an interesting and well planned build, but in answering the question about Ah consumption of the Vitrifrigo unit I'll have more data in a few days, but I just replaced my Norcold 301 series LP/AC/DC type fridge in my Lance camper with a Vitrifrigo C115...